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The PO mounted an unusual ground plate for his CB. Unfortunately it pushed the right rear of the trunk out of square and cracked the edge of the top of the trunk.

I have an idea of how to go about fixing it, but am looking for second/third opinions.

See the picture.



The cracked piece did not make the commute back to the safe haven that it is being restored in so now I must patch the entire corner.

From what I have read fiberglassing to plastic especially where it will be so thin is a bad idea.

So I came up with a bright idea to fix it. I will make a form from the other corner of the trunk with rigid styrophoam and reverse it to reform this side. My plan is to cover the styrofoam with painters tape (aka: release agent/protect the mold), and apply several coats of plastic epoxy to it to build it up.

Once cured my plan is to sand off excess and reshape the corner, leaving nothing but shaped epoxy.

Question?

Will it or will it not work?

Has anyone tried?

Do we have an autobody guru that can give hints?



Thanks in advance.

Lucky
 

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Thin epoxy on its own does not have a lot of strength. You can use epoxy as the resin in an epoxy/fibreglass mix, this is done a lot in marine applications and is generally stronger and more water resistant than polyester/fibreglass.

Just looking at your pic, the biggest problem might be clearance between trunk lid and base. You must have a well adhered overlap on to sound material. Regardless of which system you use, if you try to just adhere to the broken edge it will not work.

One suggestion for you, try a test in the usual 'inconspicuous' area. See if Gorilla glue adheres to the existing plastic. The stuff is phenomenal, but you MUST have a very thin glue line. The manuf. recommends 3 thou, which is not to hard to achieve with two smooth well fitting surfaces.

If the Gorilla glue works, you could make a backing plate out of thin sheet metal, shimstock would be ideal, and glue this to the existing material. Once you have a well secured backing plate you could build up the surface to match using epoxy. After that it's sanding and painting.

Another thought to throw in the pot. In R/C modelling we use a variety of coloured film materials as aircraft skins. We also use them on solid surfaces. there are tricks to it but it can be done. You probably wouldn't get a perfect match, but you could apply a suitably contrasting strip around the edge of the trunk. This would get away from sanding and painting.

If you want to pursue any of these ideas you can either post or PM me.

EB
 

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My first thoughts would be to get some checker plate, Nice shiny aluminum or flat stainless if you prefer the look of that. make a strip that will go all the way around the trunk. It would be a bit of work due to the taper but it would look awesome & epoxy would now have something to bond to for strength.
 

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My first thought would be to hit Flea-Bay and search for another trunk lid. They're listed there almost constantly, and can be bought for alot less than the frustration of trying to repair that corner.
 

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:waving:
Body parts on the Goldwings are made of ABS plastic. ABS cement can be purchased at plumbing supply stores. The black drain pipes under sinks are ABS plastic, different from CVC or PVC pipes. A roll of fiberglass tape from the tape and bedding section of a hardware store is good to use for reinforcement and building up. This repair can be filed/sanded and painted. A store like Lowe's or Home Depot has all this. Be sure to use the ABS cleaner before the ABS Cement for a good bond. Repairs that I have made have held up well.

Black ABS Cement, Oatey #30999, ABS Cleaner, Oatey #30779

Hope this helps.:baffled:
 

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heres a couple pics of a trunk from my parts bike an 86 1200I, looks like they hauled 100# sacks of taters around in it.
 

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and the top but it does have all the pieces:DI'm thinking of playing around with it and trying to fix it this winter when I'm really bored:baffled:

good luck on yours.

Ride Safe, Ray

:waving:
 

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