Have I got it right, GL1500?

2048 Views 14 Replies 8 Participants Last post by johnnymac, Aug 25, 2009

SailorKane

Discussion Starter · Aug 23, 2009

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I bought a GL1500 with 90K miles on it. According to maintenance records with the bike, it has been maintained well--at least oil changes & filters.

I would like to do a comprehensive maintenance schedule before taking it on a long trip. Here is what I've come up with, after searching this forum, the service manual and owners manual. Comments? Additional things to do? Some part numbers not right?

Comprehensive "100,000 mile" maintenance schedule

1. Change Oil & Filter: Shell Rotella T Synthetic 1 gal, Filter Pure One 14610
2. Change 6 spark plugs: NGK DPR7EA-9, gap .035", OR NGK Iridium Plug - DPR7EIX-9 (Gap .035")
3. Change Final Drive Oil 4.7 oz of Hypoid Gear Oil SAE 80
4. Change Coolant: First flush, then 1 Gal Prestone Extended Life, Silicate & Phosphate Free ethylene glycol
5. Change Air Cleaner Element: K&N GL1500 - HA-8088
6. Change Fuel Filter: GL1500 Fuel Filter VFR NT650
7. Change Air Pump Filters: 52716-MN5-003, 52717-MN5-003, 52718-MN5-003, dessicant 527A2-MN5-003 (38752-MN5-003)
8. Change Sub Air Filter element: 17253-KT8-000
9. Drain & Clean Crankcase Breather
10. Change Clutch Fluid: DOT 4
11. Change Front Brake Fluid: DOT 4
12. Change Rear Brake Fluid: DOT 4
13. Change Cruise air filter element: 36532-MN5-005

Inspect & Replace, as necessary:

1. Tires: Michelin Pilot GT. F: 130/70-18 63H, R: 160/80-16 75H
2. Battery
3. Timing Belts: Gates - #T275 (2 ea.)
4. Brake Pads: Front EBC FA124/2; Rear EBC FA69/3

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zimmerleemark

· #2 · Aug 23, 2009

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looks pretty good to me. looks like you pretty much covered it all unless i'm forgetting something too.

who, me, forget:cheeky1:

good luck and :action:safe.

mark:waving:

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DBohrer

· #3 · Aug 23, 2009

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Change the front fork oil (if it hasn't been done recently).

Lube the rear drive shaft splines with Honda Moly 60 lube (if it hasn't been done recently). If they stripe while on the road, it can ruin your day. Don't ask how I know.........!!

Of course you will check that all lights and controls are working good...!

AZgl1800

· #4 · Aug 23, 2009

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Do the brakes release properly? Just wondering about the little tiny bleed back hole in the master cylinders being clean of debris.

If you can't get ahold of the Honda Moly 60 lube, buy some Moly 60 (or better) paste. Definitely want to keep those rear splines nicely done with paste, not grease.

I would also run some Sea Foam thru the fuel tank a couple of times just to PM the carbs. It wouldn't hurt to dump 4 oz or so in the engine oil for a few hundred miles and then change that oil and filter out. That will make sure the lifters are nice and clean.

Does it idle smoothly without any rpm surging? Possibly sync the two carbs if you feel there is a need.

Look at the cable ends on the carbs, free of any corrosion? I would squirt some cable lube, not WD-40 or such, in the clutch cable housing.

Replacing Timing Belts on a GL1500

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zimmerleemark

· #5 · Aug 23, 2009

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just rebuild the bike:cheeky1:the :cooldevil:said it!!!!!!!!!

no, seriously, once its all done, you should be good to go for awhile

mark:waving:

William_86

· #6 · Aug 23, 2009

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Grease on the final drive splines!!

SailorKane

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 23, 2009

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Great ideas! Seafoam already been used. Brakes release fine. All switches and controls work as advertised. Engine runs smooth--sync carbs may be on the list for the future, but probably not necessary now.

Will add to the list:
- Grease final drive splines (twice!)
- Lube control cables (yes, I do have real cable lube)
- Front fork oil.

Question on front fork oil. Progressive springs and new oil were added to the bike 9 years and 30,000 miles ago. That is old enough for new fluid, right? And zero air pressure to the front forks with progressives, right?

Thanks!
Mark.

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DBohrer

· #8 · Aug 23, 2009

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SailorKane wrote:

Question on front fork oil. Progressive springs and new oil were added to the bike 9 years and 30,000 miles ago. That is old enough for new fluid, right? And zero air pressure to the front forks with progressives, right?

Thanks!
Mark.

Yes, it's time for new fork fluid. Yes, zero pressure in the forks with progressive springs.

Dusty Boots

· #9 · Aug 24, 2009

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I know that the brand/type of oil is a personal preference, but I would double think your choice of the synthetic Shell, which is a 5w-40. Too light an oil after a couple thousand miles. Been there, used that. Use either the Dyno Shell Rotella T (15W-40), or Chevron Delo 400LE 15W-40 oil. You'll find that the engine will be quieter, longer and shifts just a good as the synthetic stuff.

If you are using a chemical rad flush after draining the rad, fill/flush the cooling system at least 3 times after draining the rad flush agent and before adding your new coolant. You'll be surprised to see how much stays in the system after draining it.

Speed bleeders are relatively inexpensive and speed up the flushing of brake/clutch lines tremendously. They should be flushed every 2 years.With that many miles on it, you might want to pull your alternator(25 minute job at most) and get the brushes inspected for wear/dust build-upand install new dampeners, as yours are probably the originals and they get hard and cause some noise/vibration/grief. While you have the alternator pulled, get therear bearing checked/inspected/replaced as well, as they were a bit of a weak spot on some of the alternators.

"GL1500 Alternator Bearings. The rear bearing on the Goldwing (1500) alternator can wear prematurely, the first sign of this is when a wobbling noise comes from the engine at around 2,500 rpm. This is a distinctive sound which if ignored can lead to the whole bearing spinning and wearing away the alloy in the rear cover, leading to costly replacement. The bearing is a NSK 6000DU and it's equivalent only costs a few pounds from your bearing supplier. When fitting the new bearing, a drop or two of thread locking compound on the outer area will prevent spin, assuming that the cover is not already scrap. This picture shows a knackered bearing and you can see the burn marks where it spun in the cover. The cover in this case had to be replaced."

A maintenance free AGM battery lasts longer/stronger, than the old traditional water/acid type.

When looking for the Honda Pro Moly 60 Paste lube for your splines, THIS is what you want. Don't let sales/servicemen steer you to some other product!!!

Dusty

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SailorKane

Discussion Starter · #10 · Aug 24, 2009

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Dusty, thanks for the advice. Definitely will add alternator bearing and brushes and look at speed bleeders. I'm also getting a kind of squeeking or chirping sound at fast idle, when the engine is very hot. I assume it is one of the fans--gotta check that further. I suspect that the higher voltage from the alternator causes faster fan operation and triggers the chirp. It doesn't seem related to engine speed per se, or to bike velocity...

I've studied some things more than others. Oil is one of them. Nursed a diesel on my offshore sailboat for years and had a VTX1300 for a couple years, so studied water-cooled motorcycle oil as well. The VTX guys are as anal a group as I have ever seen about things like oil and filters....
I'm pretty set on the Shell rotella T synthetic (and the pure one filter), after cost/benefit comparison, my oil change intervals, and tests of the oil after usage. I've used the Delo oil on my diesel and looked seriously at the Shell non-synthetic. For those oils, best to change oil religiously after no more than 3000 miles..... Then, they are fine. The Rotella synthetic is not a true synthetic, but a highly refined excellent group 3 oil with a good set of additives and excellent for the clutch and gear situation we have.

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Dusty Boots

· #11 · Aug 24, 2009

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Just stating what I found through my experience through using both and my bike ishappier with the Delo over the 'synthetic' Rotella. I found that the syn Rotella needed changing out ~ 2,500 miles(engine ran warmer and was noisier), while I've run 11,000 kilometers(7,000 miles) while touring with the Delo and never a problem/complaint from the engine, but to each their own. Like I said, it's a personal thing.

DBohrer

· #12 · Aug 25, 2009

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SailorKane wrote:

I'm pretty set on the Shell rotella T synthetic (and the pure one filter), after cost/benefit comparison, my oil change intervals, and tests of the oil after usage.

I have been using Shell Rotella T Synthetic in my GL1500 for 67,000 miles with good results. No engine, transmission or clutch problems.

rcmatt007

· #13 · Aug 25, 2009

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if your going to "inspect" the timing belts, just go ahead and change them

SailorKane

Discussion Starter · #14 · Aug 25, 2009

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Definitely don't want to start an oil thread. If you change in 3000 miles, any of the top rated oils are fine! And I do! So Rotella in the white or blue bottle, delo, anything, is great!

Well, got things under way. Tires are being shipped. Coolant changed. Even found time to replace the side lights with LED's. WOW. I always had a problem with LED brightness. Most are pretty dim. But the ones I bought!!! Holy Cow! They are bright!

johnnymac

· #15 · Aug 25, 2009

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Sailor, please tell me about your LED lights, what you got and where you got them. I understand they are brighter and use less amps. We all need less amps.

If you are going to inspect the belts, you are doing a lot of work already, change them while you are there.

I'd like to add a few lights, but I don't want to look for charging problems. There are a few lights on the bike now that I could do without. Nice in the dark though.

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