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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
timing belt fragged bent valves in left head the only thing I can see wrong is valves. Is honda the only way to get these(60 each) as a used head is 100.00 or cheaper. any car replacements? also original owner said that the oil light would stay on, inside of cilinders look good, good compression on right bank should I scrap it or repair? 23 K miles good shape and every crome acessory you could dream of **** thing looks like it has a crome 6 inch wrap around bumper lol
 

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Other side of the pond
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The oil light staying on would worry me. A used head for $100 sounds like a good buy in my opinion. I would still be worried about the oil light being indicative of a bigger problem that might surface after replacing or rebuilding the head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The oil light staying on would worry me. A used head for $100 sounds like a good buy in my opinion. I would still be worried about the oil light being indicative of a bigger problem that might surface after replacing or rebuilding the head.
Yea me to but wouldnt there be some damage? oil was clean dosent seem to be an issue anywhere. is there any way to check for more dammage with out removing motor and going through?
 

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Way too much for ahead they are on eBay all the time for under $40..sometimes two of them for $25..plus shipping...

But I have a set of 1100 valves..all four for one side..in good shape $36 including shipping. PM me if you want them.
 

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Older and Wiser
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Best you can do is determine if the engine lock up from oil starvation before it shredded the timing belt. I'm guessing you already pulled the left head, is the engine turning over by hand freely without getting tight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Best you can do is determine if the engine lock up from oil starvation before it shredded the timing belt. I'm guessing you already pulled the left head, is the engine turning over by hand freely without getting tight?
Ya every thing look good turns over by hand no issue that i can see or feel oil had no metal or anything that I could see. there was a bit of what looked like aluminium dust in the oil passage in block between head and block if that makes sence? How do I check valve guides ??? got valves out yesterday not stuck at all thanks for all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
front journal scratched and rough the rest look fine. If it had bearings i would replace. why only the front? tiped over and ran or? can i polish cam and head back up? Bigger problems? thank you .
 

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Average Goldwing Rider
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23K on an '82 is not very much. Oil pressure is the issue. I would pull both heads, grind the valves and replace the valve guide seals. I would not worry about the bottom end unless there is visible damage from oil starvation. If the bores and cam lobes & followers look good, go run it. Trace the source of the oil light. I doubt if it a truly low oil pressure. At worst it might be a leaky oil pump.
 

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Don't grind Honda valves for a couple reasons. First they're hard surfaced and will wear very quickly if done. Second, any material removed at all and they won't fit the seat well, if at all. Lastly, with the exception of intakes on smaller older models and maybe some of the newer CRF titanium valves...they just don't wear out. Of course if they're bent no amount of grinding will straighten them.
 

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Junior Grue
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front journal scratched and rough the rest look fine. If it had bearings i would replace. why only the front? tiped over and ran or? can i polish cam and head back up? Bigger problems? thank you .
I would find a new/used head but first find out if the oil pump is working.

A simple test is to crank it with the heads off. If oil covers everything in sight the pump is okay.
 

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front journal scratched and rough the rest look fine. If it had bearings i would replace. why only the front? tiped over and ran or? can i polish cam and head back up? Bigger problems? thank you .

It probably had the oil passage to the head plugged up or the oil screen in the bottom is plugged, which is probably the cause because the oil light stays on. If the cam and head are damaged just find another head.
 

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To check the valve guides. put them back into the head and take hold of the stem at the engine end. Wiggle side to side. If there is play then your guides are worn or damaged. In mine the exhaust wore faster than the inlet. Thats because the exhaust valves are hotter than the inlet.

Present the head and guides labelled and numbered to a good machine shop and they will replace the guides ream them and lap in as required. Not too much cost. They will also true the head and clean up.

If only exhaust then do the guides on the exhaust side only. If both then do both. You can treat the two heads seperately. I.e only do the damaged side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Found a new head getting ready to go back together this weekend are the belts the same or are they different size? Also how do I get to the screen in the bottom to check? Does any one have the head bolt torque and rotation? Does anyone recomend copper coat with a new gasket thanks I apreciate all the input..
 

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Cyclebusters.com
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you should have the head surfaced. spec on warpage is tiny. they could look great and be out of spec and leak. for the coins take it to a machine shop, and do it right once.

and like was suggested, you should install the new belt on the other side, make sure its in time and hit the starter button. oil should come out the gallery feed like a fire hose. if not, well your about to take it apart. Hate ta see ya waste a good gasket and time on a blown engine. below right head near bottom of engine is the oil screen cover. 4 screws. If it dont spray oil, pull that cover and see if debris is blocking the oil intake. And if you cant make it pump oil, begin removing the engine.
 

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Both timing belts are the same. Here is the head bolt torque and sequence.
 

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Found a new head getting ready to go back together this weekend are the belts the same or are they different size? Also how do I get to the screen in the bottom to check? Does any one have the head bolt torque and rotation? Does anyone recomend copper coat with a new gasket thanks I apreciate all the input..
To get to the oil screen there is a cover on the lower right of the block, 4 screws. The front one is a PITA to get out.
Torque the head bolts to 40 ft.lbs. in at least 2 steps, bottom center first then top center, lower left, upper right, lower right, upper left, then the small bolt at the bottom, 8 ft.lbs.
Do not use any sealer on the gaskets.
 

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Still Learning
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The oil light staying on could be a bad sensor/connection.
Or dirty sensor and or pickup screens from lack if proper oil changes. Once running, a cleaning with a quart of MMO in the crankcase will clean it out.

Was the oil oriface and orings in properly in the center of the head to the block?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Or dirty sensor and or pickup screens from lack if proper oil changes. Once running, a cleaning with a quart of MMO in the crankcase will clean it out.

Was the oil oriface and orings in properly in the center of the head to the block?
it seemed ok but who knows..I will do belts then check screen and hope she sprays I thank you all very much:bow:
 
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