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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Heated grips and seat. 08 Wing.

New grips pretested and work. Seat works on another bike but not mine. Ran all the voltage and Ohm testing per the manual twice. Everything checks out within spec.

New Heater Control module installed. Relay is also working correctly. All switches checked for Ohm's and voltage - pass.

The pink color wire between Heater control & ECM has continuity and about 9.5 volts when trike is on but drops to zero when running.

Anyone got an answer to my problem. Hoping it's not the ECM
 

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2008 GL1800 audio/comfort/nav/abs
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Just curious but what is the temperature where you are testing this? My printed wiring diagram is out in the garage so need to look at what you talking about specifically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just curious but what is the temperature where you are testing this? My printed wiring diagram is out in the garage so need to look at what you talking about specifically.
68° however l had packed the air temp probe with ice so bike air temp registered 46° think that might help but wiring dia doesn't show any relationship between the two.
 

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68° however l had packed the air temp probe with ice so bike air temp registered 46° think that might help but wiring dia doesn't show any relationship between the two.
That probe has nothing to do with the seat heaters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I sort of knew that after studying the wiring diagrams Leave it to Honda to take what would be a simple system for heating and make a complex mess.

The new grips came with the option to tie into the OEM system or use it's own controller. I tie in. But after the install I unhooked them from the system and temp jumped them to the controller they came with. They worked fine in fact at high setting on that remote controller you almost couldn't hold onto the grips. So thus the grips work just not when hook to OEM system.
 

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I sort of knew that after studying the wiring diagrams Leave it to Honda to take what would be a simple system for heating and make a complex mess.

The new grips came with the option to tie into the OEM system or use it's own controller. I tie in. But after the install I unhooked them from the system and temp jumped them to the controller they came with. They worked fine in fact at high setting on that remote controller you almost couldn't hold onto the grips. So thus the grips work just not when hook to OEM system.
So none of it works with the grips connected to the system? Could be the resistance is wrong so it won't let the system work.
 

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I sort of knew that after studying the wiring diagrams Leave it to Honda to take what would be a simple system for heating and make a complex mess.

The new grips came with the option to tie into the OEM system or use it's own controller. I tie in. But after the install I unhooked them from the system and temp jumped them to the controller they came with. They worked fine in fact at high setting on that remote controller you almost couldn't hold onto the grips. So thus the grips work just not when hook to OEM system.
When you test using an ohm meter as Honda often suggests is thst it doesn't guarantee a good connection. A poor connection tested with an ohm meter might read zero ohms as the circuit really is not carrying any real load. When that same circuit has some real amperage flowing through it the circuit goes open. I have got in the habit of turning on the circuit then use my voltmeter and backprobe the connections to find the issue. It has saved me a lot of headaches. Might be your issue as well?????
 

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I check that and resistance right on with spec stated in the manual .
OK, and do you have them connected in series like the originals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When you test using an ohm meter as Honda often suggests is thst it doesn't guarantee a good connection. A poor connection tested with an ohm meter might read zero ohms as the circuit really is not carrying any real load. When that same circuit has some real amperage flowing through it the circuit goes open. I have got in the habit of turning on the circuit then use my voltmeter and backprobe the connections to find the issue. It has saved me a lot of headaches. Might be your issue as well?????
Thanks for the suggestions. Don't think connection are a problem as I checked for flow on each side of connections to insure it was good. I'm a little stubble on the fact that the system would go open when a load is applied if all my resistance test passed. I'll recheck with a load like you stated . I did check for voltage at the grips and seat on the backside of connections and voltage was present .
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. Don't think connection are a problem as I checked for flow on each side of connections to insure it was good. I'm a little stubble on the fact that the system would go open when a load is applied if all my resistance test passed. I'll recheck with a load like you stated . I did check for voltage at the grips and seat on the backside of connections and voltage was present .
I have absolutely no experience with heated seats or grips. I was just speaking in general related to checking voltage vs resistance.
I did look a bit for a wiring diagram and stumbled across some thing that might be helpful. The theory of operation is that the 12 volts is constant to the heating elements. The ground is controlled by pulse width modulation. (PWM) That is how they control temperature. The longer the pulse the warmer your arse. :rolleyes:
 

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If you are in fact getting power to the yellow/red wire with the engine running then obviously the ECM is doing it's thing and operating the relay. So if you check power on the white and red wires coming out of the seat or the white green to the grips you should see no or low power there if the controller is grounding the heaters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you are in fact getting power to the yellow/red wire with the engine running then obviously the ECM is doing it's thing and operating the relay. So if you check power on the white and red wires coming out of the seat or the white green to the grips you should see no or low power there if the controller is grounding the heaters.
Yes have 13.4 V out of those mention wires. Wires out of seat and grips when set on Max is around 4.5 to 5 volts. Goes a little lower when turn control setting down. Base on what you are saying then my 4.5 volts maybe correct? I figure it should be higher than that and that was where the issue was.
The one thing I didn't check was continuity on the green wire (ground) to frame and negative battery post.
 

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The one thing I didn't check was continuity on the green wire (ground) to frame and negative battery post.
That may well be the problem and makes sense with what you have found so far.
 
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