[mmcgin55]

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I'm a new member and recently purchased a not running 83 Aspencade in great cosmetic shape for $400.The previous owner claimed the bike had no power and appeared to be an electrical problem that he was frustrated and did not want to deal withit. I found the power problem to beonly the battery very low on acid so I topped it off,recharged and back to normal. I also went throughstandard maintenance changing the oil/filter, drain and refilled the coolant, pullled spark plugs clean and re-gap, tire pressure etc. After all was done I added sea foam to the gas tank and started the bike. After running for a short while I headed out to stretch her legs when I noticedafter a few milesthe engine appeared to be very noisy toward therearof the engine. Clutch????In the garage Iput the bike on the center stand and heardsomething metal fall on the floor.I found the remains of the hex nut cap plugfrom the stator cover of the rear engine case. The case was cracked between the cap plug hole and the stator wire plug. The rotor bolt was alsohanging out of the stator cover cap plug hole. Has anyone seen this before??? I do understand that I willneed to pull the engine and replace therear case andmost likely the stator and rotor ...but what could have caused this fail ???? You help and guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks ...

 

[chris in va]

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It's my understanding that the stator nut can loosen and cause noise. If not attended to in a timely fashion, probably catastrophic failure like you experienced.

 

[Bagmaster]

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Usually caused by someone using that bolt in there to roll the engine over to set the timing marks for belt replacement. What happens is they turn it the wrong way and loosen the torque on it causing it to back out over time. You can retorque the bolt, fit a new cap (plenty of them on old 750's) and fix the crack with JB Weld.

My brother bought an 83 Interstate in Florida, brought it home and find the same problem with it. The stator bolt backed out enough to break the center out of the bolt cap, no cracks in the case. Re-torqued the bolt, installed new cap and was good to go.

 

[Broke Winger]

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I have a stator/rear engine cover complete with clutch cover both caps, vacuum advance unit and a used but good when removed stator. You would need to extend the wires for the stator. But you could basically pull the rear cover off yours and put this one on and go.

If you want it I'll take $50 + shipping. I believe it will fit in the $15 flat rate box for shipping.

 

[mmcgin55]

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Thanks for all your help!!! I have reinstalled the rotor bolt and now the engine runsquiet and smooth. My only problem now is the rear case. The hole for the cap is distorted(lifted)and cracked along to the stator wire plug from the rotor bolt forcing its way out. So now I have to figure out how to seal the hole and the crack. Bagmaster suggested JB Weld and I must say I used this a few years ago on my 95 Ford E150 Mark III conversion van oil pan. The pan was rusting/leaking along the welds (common problem with Ford truck/van oil pans) andthis bought me3 more years beforeI finally needed to replace the pan. Believe me I would gladlypull 5 Goldwing engines than 1 ford oil pan ( I've replaced 2 ford oil pans over the recent years (not fun!!!).

Thanks again!

Cheers !!!

 

[actionpack]

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mmcgin55 wrote:

Thanks for all your help!!! I have reinstalled the rotor bolt and now the engine runsquiet and smooth. My only problem now is the rear case. The hole for the cap is distorted(lifted)and cracked along to the stator wire plug from the rotor bolt forcing its way out. So now I have to figure out how to seal the hole and the crack. Bagmaster suggested JB Weld and I must say I used this a few years ago on my 95 Ford E150 Mark III conversion van oil pan. The pan was rusting/leaking along the welds (common problem with Ford truck/van oil pans) andthis bought me3 more years beforeI finally needed to replace the pan. Believe me I would gladlypull 5 Goldwing engines than 1 ford oil pan ( I've replaced 2 ford oil pans over the recent years (not fun!!!).

Thanks again!

Cheers !!!

i hear ya when u talked about ford vans and oil pans , i had to jb weld the whole thing , looked like a bondo job when i got thru , but it worked , so if ya can jb will solve the case problem , 8

 

[RB]

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Not to steal this thread but I have an Accord with cracked oil pan..hit a big rock, you are saying I can clean the oil pan really well and then just smear on some JB and it will seal it..right now it leaks a bit..not a lot but annoying.

 

[daveman]

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RB wrote:

Not to steal this thread but I have an Accord with cracked oil pan..hit a big rock, you are saying I can clean the oil pan really well and then just smear on some JB and it will seal it..right now it leaks a bit..not a lot but annoying.

Did the same thing with an old Cavalier I had. Just drained the oil, cleaned the rust/hole/puncture on the pan, spread the JB weld & waited a day.

Never leaked again. Put some tremclad rust paint on & I bet that pan still lives in the junkyard...after the rest of the car rusted around it.

Dave

 

[actionpack]

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if its a steel pan and u got some area to bond to , it will work , just wire wheel it real good and clean it up and jb weld it and then paint , i had alot of pin holes in my ford pan , thats why i had to coat the hole pan , :action:

 

[dan filipi]

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mmc, there really isnt much going on back there, why the cover cracked where it did is odd. Until you get a new cap or cover, duct tape over the hole is enough to keep dirt out and oil in to keep riding. Make it a winter project.