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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We came out of Mt Rushmore and everything was dead. No lights, anything. The battery has 12.53 v, The 40 amp fuse at the solenoid checks good. The red wire at the solenoid has 12.53 v. Is there a second main fuse on these? If so, where? The lady that owns the bike has no knowledge at all, and none of the rest of us have ever worked on a 1500. Everything was working great when we parked. She did leave it in reverse when she shut it down. Taking it out of reverse changed nothing. Any ideas? If so, I'll need instructions. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The first thing we looked at was the kill switch. Even if it wasn't on run, we would have dash lights, etc??? We took it out of reverse. It's in neutral. We had it towed to the campground where we're staying, so not stranded at Mt Rushmore. It also has a tow pac on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I may have found the problem. On all the other GoldWings I've worked on, the red wire at the solenoid goes to the ignition switch. I have 12.53 v at the connection for that wire. 1 inch from there, I have 2v. It's a crimp on connector on the end of the wire. We looking for a connector we can try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I haven't found a 55a dogbone. I'll look some more. We found a 40a fuse on the solenoid. The battery terminals are clean and tight. 2nd thing we checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, I think I found where the dogbone SHOULD be. The main positive cable comes down from the battery and it has a place where it has been heat shrinked, and it feels like there is a hard wired connection under the heat shrink. I have 12.53 v just past the heat shrink. As far as the battery voltage goes, my 82i just came off the road and has 12.84. 12.53 should be no problem. The battery is only about 3 weeks old. This bike has been bastardized on it's wiring. There is another battery cable back behind the solenoid that is just sitting there. It is probably the original. The bike traveled right at a 1000 miles in the last 2 days from Joplin, MO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The owner of the campground had everything needed to replace the connector. We replaced it and when I went to plub it back in to the solenoid, the starter kicked. That was it, one kick. Still nothing working. Let me check the wiring with you.

FUSE
RED/BLUE WIRE - RED WIRE(10g)?
RED/YELLOW - BLACK WIRE
WIRE TO STARTER - LINE TO BATTERY
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
We replaced the connector on the red wire on the solenoid. Still no lights or anything. We've given up for tonight. I'll take the schematic out to the bike in the morning and see what I can figure out. I understand that about the kill switch being different. We both had to look at it twice to make sure it was on run. Anybody know where I can download a manual? I have no clues on the different covers on this thing except for the battery.

Thanks,

I'll be back on in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Ok, we have 12 v at the alternator. There is no voltage at the second dogbone. All the fuses in the fuse box look good. I was just told that what I think is relay #3 has been bypassed. 8-( The wiring on this thing is a mess. Under the seat there are cut wires, burned wires, and who knows what else. We are staying at Wheel's West in the barracks. The people here are great. There is a restaurant here and it is good food. It costs a it more than I'm used to, but good food and very friendly people. The bike is in the owner's garage and I have full use of whatever we need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Found the relays and a diagram of what each relay is. The document says to test, I should have 7 ohms across the brass contacts and no resistance across the copper contacts. I am getting, on relay 6 and 3, open across the brass and 103 ohms across the copper contacts. Yet, we can hear 6 click whenever we disconnect power. ????
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If by starter relay A, you mean the solenoid, yes, we have done that and the starter is working fine. I'm wondering if the ignition switch is bad? I tested 4 more relays, they all test out exactly the same. Where is the reverse switch? The handle seems to be working fine. We can see on the right side and it seems to be traveling moving like it should. How would I know? Don't know, just guessing. 8-(
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I worked on it for awhile longer and decided to give the Honda service dept a shot at it. It's there now. I'll let you know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
We got a call from the service dept. It will be ready tomorrow morning. It is the solenoid that is the problem. There's a crack in it where the 30 amp fuse is inserted. He twisted it just right and everything was normal. I now feel humbled. I should have checked that out closer, I guess.
 
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