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Your original post said it was left in reverse. I am more inclined to think that this is the circuit giving you all problems as the starter motor is the reverse motor. Search online for all info about the reverse circuit IMHO. Good Luck:praying:
 

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There should be a second dogbone fuse under the seat, about 3 inches back from the fuel pump in a plastic snap box just behind the cross member
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Ok, we have 12 v at the alternator. There is no voltage at the second dogbone. All the fuses in the fuse box look good. I was just told that what I think is relay #3 has been bypassed. 8-( The wiring on this thing is a mess. Under the seat there are cut wires, burned wires, and who knows what else. We are staying at Wheel's West in the barracks. The people here are great. There is a restaurant here and it is good food. It costs a it more than I'm used to, but good food and very friendly people. The bike is in the owner's garage and I have full use of whatever we need.
 

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...everything was dead. No lights, anything. The battery has 12.53 v, The 40 amp fuse at the solenoid checks good. The red wire at the solenoid has 12.53 v. Is there a second main fuse on these? If so, where? ... Everything was working great when we parked. She did leave it in reverse when she shut it down...
I had seemingly exact same problem on mine recently, due to a bad starter Solenoid-A. Try Jumping the big terminals on the Solenoid (the one forward of the battery, with a 30amp fuse on it)... I used a pair of pliers to cross the terminals, while having ignition turned to 'On' position... that should make the starter turn over like normal.

On mine, it ran fine up until I was in the process of parking... at which point I could not get a neutral light (prior to turning engine off). After engine was turned off, then the bike was completely dead except perhaps for the cb-display; no effect from trying to jump-start with known good battery either.

No, there is no 2nd main fuse for the solenoid/s, just that one 30 amp fuse atop Solenoid-A mentioned.
 

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...I got to thinking....MAYBE the reverse switch or starter switch is stuck! When in reverse,and push start button,it will "cut the power off to everything" so the starter can use it all...
I don't think it's a Reverse Problem, as the bike would still have Dash-Lights even if it were somehow stuck in reverse (perhaps due to common problem of stuck switch on left side, at reverse handle location... but that merely results in an inability to get a nuetral light on dash)
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Found the relays and a diagram of what each relay is. The document says to test, I should have 7 ohms across the brass contacts and no resistance across the copper contacts. I am getting, on relay 6 and 3, open across the brass and 103 ohms across the copper contacts. Yet, we can hear 6 click whenever we disconnect power. ????
 

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Found the relays and a diagram of what each relay is. The document says to test, I should have 7 ohms across the brass contacts and no resistance across the copper contacts. I am getting, on relay 6 and 3, open across the brass and 103 ohms across the copper contacts. Yet, we can hear 6 click whenever we disconnect power. ????
Relay #6 will Click whenever you turn the ignition on.

Before you get too involved with testing Relays and Fuses, did you try Jumping Starter-Solenoid-A yet???


 

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Way back when bike was new, there was a string of bad batteries in circulation. When they went bad, it was very much like what you are now experiencing.
Try a different battery, or jump it. Really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If by starter relay A, you mean the solenoid, yes, we have done that and the starter is working fine. I'm wondering if the ignition switch is bad? I tested 4 more relays, they all test out exactly the same. Where is the reverse switch? The handle seems to be working fine. We can see on the right side and it seems to be traveling moving like it should. How would I know? Don't know, just guessing. 8-(
 

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If by starter relay A, you mean the solenoid, yes, we have done that and the starter is working fine...(
> Yes, typo fixed


I'm wondering if the ignition switch is bad?...
> Perhaps a Loose Connector, to the ignition switch?... look above/atop the left fan housing, for a bank of perhaps 5-connectors... I believe the rear-most and largest one is for the ignition switch... if it's loose, then you won't be able to start the bike.


...I tested 4 more relays, they all test out exactly the same...
> You can Swap any of the relays, to isolate a bad one... if fact, you only need Relay#6 installed, in order to make the bike run... all the others may be removed for testing.

...Where is the reverse switch? The handle seems to be working fine. We can see on the right side and it seems to be traveling moving like it should. How would I know?
> If the reverse switch is bad, then bike will be completely normal except that you can't get the green dash reverse light to turn on... so I don't think that's your problem (as you have no lights what-so-ever)
> That said, the switch is beneath the body panel for the reverse lever... there's a 3" round metal pulley in there for the reverse cables... the Switch is at the rear... You can actually reach up (with body panel disconnected, yet still installed) and "twang" the switch's plunger to Un-stick it... this is a very common problem, when leaving the bike parked in reverse.



Also, there's a 5-amp fuse to check as part of the ignition circuit... I don't think that's the problem (since you can jump the starter to get it working), but if you're looking around then can't hurt to check... I believe this fuse is well hidden to the Rear of the battery and possibly beneath a unlabeled rubber weather cover.

 

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What exactly is the bike doing now, when you turn key on do you have lights (head and tail), do dash warning lights lite up, neutral lite on?

At the fuse box what fuses are HOT with key off. More than a couple should have juice.
 

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We came out of Mt Rushmore and everything was dead. No lights, anything. The battery has 12.53 v, The 40 amp fuse at the solenoid checks good. The red wire at the solenoid has 12.53 v. Is there a second main fuse on these? If so, where? The lady that owns the bike has no knowledge at all, and none of the rest of us have ever worked on a 1500. Everything was working great when we parked. She did leave it in reverse when she shut it down. Taking it out of reverse changed nothing. Any ideas? If so, I'll need instructions. Thanks in advance.
Any changes from the first post yet?

If the whole bike is dead, no radio, lights, horn, 4 way flashers etc.. you can eliminate some things from being the problem. If side stand switch or reverse switch or kill switch etc.. you would still have everything else working fine, just no starter or ignition.
Even when in reverse everything works when sitting, only goes off when actually using reverse with starter button pressed, not when just sitting in reverse parked. I do it all the time on 88 and 95.

Have you tested the battery under load. I have seen a couple bad batteries show good volts just sitting but the least load and they drop to 6V or so. Not often but does happen.

If the entire bike is dead, nothing happens when you turn the key on, I would concentrate on that circuit, battery to the switch. Can you pull the connector from the ignition and check for the hot wire on the plug leading in. Maybe put a load on that wire to be sure it's not just ghost volts, if wires been hacked then a bad connection can show volts without a load but fail under load.

There is a relay, not sure which one, that triggers when the key is turned on, if bad it could still click on and off but have fried contacts and not pass the volts/amps like it should to the bike. If switch has good power then I would look for that relay and test it's output.

Of course remove and clean the main ground wire on both ends also. Everything can show volts and look like it's working until a load is applied, then under load a dirty ground can flake out and nothing at all work.
That happens to me all the time messing with junk cars here.
Of course with a bike just turning on the key puts on a heavy load to the ground with all the lights that come on, it's more than enough to flake out a bad ground!

If it were any of the safety switches everything like head lights and radio should still be working at least until the starter button is pressed.
I hope you got it fixed by now,
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I worked on it for awhile longer and decided to give the Honda service dept a shot at it. It's there now. I'll let you know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
We got a call from the service dept. It will be ready tomorrow morning. It is the solenoid that is the problem. There's a crack in it where the 30 amp fuse is inserted. He twisted it just right and everything was normal. I now feel humbled. I should have checked that out closer, I guess.
 

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push start
That only works if the bike has power, if the entire bike is dead nothing will happen pushing it other than get leg cramps and sore back LOL

Yep, if just a starter problem it works good though, I pushed started my 88 for over a year because of that broke idler gear LOL
 

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We got a call from the service dept. It will be ready tomorrow morning. It is the solenoid that is the problem. There's a crack in it where the 30 amp fuse is inserted. He twisted it just right and everything was normal. I now feel humbled. I should have checked that out closer, I guess.
Glad it got solved and a simple fix.

Don't feel too bad, easy to miss something like a small crack in something like that.
 

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Agreed... glad it is actually a simple fix.... BUT.....

I would get that bike in for a MAJOR overhaul on the wiring , SOON.

someone with knowledge.. not just a pair of cutters and some duct tape.

DS
:)
 
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