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I just rebuilt the front calipers on my 83' Honda Goldwing/Interstate, and was able to bleed the front left side (only activated by the front brake lever), however, I cannot get any bleeding action out of the front right side caliper. I have read all of the great information on this site (sorry to say too late) as I also had to get different overhaul kits due to the different sized pistons in the calipers that no-one seems to know about except for the people on this forum site.



Anyway, need help on what actions I need to start eliminating as I was told to simply replace the rear master cylinder. I would like to analyze the situation 1st, and I appreciate any and all ideas for help!



As a new member, I am very impressed with this site, and I am sure I will be visiting often as I was a former sport-bike guy, now an official "Honda-Man" as of July 2nd 2005.

Regards,

Kurt
 

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doing the front brake that is activated by the rear master cylinder is tricky.... just too long of a distance. You might try one of theose suction devices that pulls the fluid into the brake cylnder. I know I had a heck of a time when I rebuilt my '86
 

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Hey 83wingman :leprechaun: Welcome to the greatest Goldwing Forum on the net. :clapper:

:weightlifter::18red::weightlifter:
 

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Welcome to the Forum Kurt:waving:I have never rebuilt a front caliber on my 83 but will be interested in hearing from people in the Forum on this item:dance:
 

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Try this. Purchase a pump oil can and fill it with brake fluid. Use a small piece of tubing and a couple small hose clamps to connect the spout on the oil can to the bleeder valve on the brake. open the mas cyl cover and leave it open. Pump fluid backwards from the caliper to the master cylinder. Careful you don't overflow and get brake fliud all over. Turkey baster works good for removing the fluid (and, typically, gunk) that accumulates in the master cyl resevoir.

I can't say positively it'll work on your GW because I haven't done it on that bike but this is the usual procedure I use on other bikes because it's a lot easier to purge the brake lines completely of air. Its also a lot faster.

Good luck.
 

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Sorry, I should have been more specific. I have already used the Mighty-Vac or whatever it is called, both frontwards(force mode asI call it)and in reverse(suction mode) with no luck(my brother-in-law is an auto-mechanic and has all of those fancy tools). Therefore, my brother-in-law claims that it is definitely a master-cylinder problem.

My point to him was, it worked before!:action: I am thinking tonight I will try to dissconnect the master cylinder lines, pump the pedal, and see if anything happens, will all luck, my hope is that I will see fluid coming out from somewhere, and start to eliminate possible symptoms until I get to the root cause of the problem.

I would however appreciate not having to go through the "guessing game" by process of elimination on what the problem is. On the other hand, it beats paying $60/hour for the dealer here in Sheboygan WI to attempt to find out what is wrong.

I am at the point that having a bike on the center stand sitting in the garage is very frustrating when I just purchased it on July 2nd, and really haven't been able to ride much in the last 2-1/2 weeks:(, let alone taking up the entire garage with tools everywhere, and having the better-half having to park outside. Not an acceptable solution at the moment.....



Kurt.
 

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Hi Kurt and welcome to the forum. You are not the first person to have trouble bleeding the linked brakes on a Wing and it can be very difficult. I've used a tip I got right here to bleed my 1500 and a couple of 1200s. Open the union at the master cylinder end and open the bleed nipple. Attach a syringe with a thin rubber tube (fishtank tubing is perfect) and inject brake fluid from the bleed nipple until you see clean bubble free fluid coming out of the MC union (it's better if someone else does the syringe thing while you check the fluid) and when it does just nip up the union nut. That gets all the air out of those nooks and crannies. Remember that the pedal operates back brake and one front caliper so you will need to bleed both.
 

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When I changed fluid in my brakes after rebuilding the calipers I refilled the master reservoir, cracked open the brake line where it comes out of the master and pumped until I had fluid coming out. Normal bleeding of the front took a good bit of pumping before I finally got solid fluid. It's best to bleed the front caliper before the rear caliper. If you can't get the air out, do what Englishted and cldryder are recommending, pump fluid in at the caliper, be careful you don't overflow the reservoir and protect the paint from the brake fluid. If you do this method you may have to bleed the connection at the master cylinder. Don't despair, bleeding the clutch is usually worse!
 

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Could it be that he has a collapsedbrake line going to the front? As he said, he tried a might-vac both ways.

hobe
 

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Kurt,
Were you able to draw brake fluid out when you vacumm bled the rear?
I don't think a new master cylinder is the answer. If you price one, you may see what I mean.
If you can't get fluid out of the front bleeder, maby you can crack the brake line fitting loose, have someone step down and hold the brake while you tighten the fitting.
When I bought my 1200 it didn't have any fluid in the rear master cylinder and I didn't realize the brales were linked. I was ready to replace the master cylinder when I discovered the linking.
I used a vacumm bleader to blead the rear, then the front and the the rear again.
The brakes have worked good since. I never did figure out where the fluid went.
Good luck!
 

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Hi Kurt,

on cars with the split system, I would sometimes run into problems with bleeding the lines. Even with a bleeder system, I would end up with a soft pedal. :gunhead:

I found that cracking a bleeder open on the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder and allowing it to drip for awhile, seemed to solve the problem. Of course you want to make sure that the master cylinder does not go empty. I would start at the back wheel, open the bleeder, remove the reservoir cap and top it off as the level drop. Sometimes, gravity can do what tools cannot!
 

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Yes, at least there was fluid coming out of the rear brakes when I opened the bleeder valve.

I will be trying all of the suggestions listed.

Thanks to everyone:)
 

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Back in business:clapper: I used the suggestion of the medical syringe and the hose... Took 3 hours, but at last, it is time to ride. (I also had to crack open the master cylinder and pump fluid through to the front to make it work)... Messy, but finally worth the effort.

Thanks to all!!!... And the best thing is, I am now an amature expert on rebuilding 83' Wing calipers, bleeding, and making a mess all at the same time:)

Regards,

Kurt
 
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