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I have got the engine back in my 1100 and if the 'kill switch' is off it turns over on the starter happily enough but when you try to start it then the fun begins!!
The engine tries to catch but sounds as if it is firing on the 'upstroke' before TDC and gives a very solid sounding 'thump' and the occasional backfire
I have fuel in the cylinders (wet plugs)
I have spark at the plugs (tested in the time-honoured manner)
I believe that the timing is correct (T1 and the camshft pully marks line up with No.1 cylinder at TDC and both tappets 'loose'
I have a series of questions as its many years since I have had to delve into the engine workings, please feel free to answer any or all if you can ( but please preceed your answer with the question number for clarity)
1) am I right in thinking that when sitting on the bike
No.1 cyl is front right
No.2 cyl is front left
No.3 cyl is rear right
No.4 cyl is rear left
2) again when sitting on the bike
the left hand of the 2 coils is fed by a yellow wire and goes to cyl 1+2
the right hand of the 2 coils is fed by a blue wire and goes to cyl 3+4
(there is a black/yellow common)
3) If I have the Ign on and the plug from No. 1 out and earthed when I rotate the engine by hand it should spark as it passes T1 on the crank
4) If I have the Ign on and the plug from No. 2 out and earthed when I rotate the engine by hand it should spark as it passes T2 on the crank
I finally gave up when the starter appeared to be locked on (continued to run after releasing button) and the battery went flat, and when I took the battery off the negative terminal was hot enough to burn my fingers
5) could the starter switch have welded itself closed due to prolonged attempts to start
6) would the neg battery teminal get hot due to the prolonged tries and flatten the battery if the starter got stuck
I think that should be enough to go on for now but any ideas will be gratefully received as I am well out of practice (but having to relearn fast)
Many thanks for any help
Rob
I have got the engine back in my 1100 and if the 'kill switch' is off it turns over on the starter happily enough but when you try to start it then the fun begins!!
The engine tries to catch but sounds as if it is firing on the 'upstroke' before TDC and gives a very solid sounding 'thump' and the occasional backfire
I have fuel in the cylinders (wet plugs)
I have spark at the plugs (tested in the time-honoured manner)
I believe that the timing is correct (T1 and the camshft pully marks line up with No.1 cylinder at TDC and both tappets 'loose'
I have a series of questions as its many years since I have had to delve into the engine workings, please feel free to answer any or all if you can ( but please preceed your answer with the question number for clarity)
1) am I right in thinking that when sitting on the bike
No.1 cyl is front right
No.2 cyl is front left
No.3 cyl is rear right
No.4 cyl is rear left
2) again when sitting on the bike
the left hand of the 2 coils is fed by a yellow wire and goes to cyl 1+2
the right hand of the 2 coils is fed by a blue wire and goes to cyl 3+4
(there is a black/yellow common)
3) If I have the Ign on and the plug from No. 1 out and earthed when I rotate the engine by hand it should spark as it passes T1 on the crank
4) If I have the Ign on and the plug from No. 2 out and earthed when I rotate the engine by hand it should spark as it passes T2 on the crank
I finally gave up when the starter appeared to be locked on (continued to run after releasing button) and the battery went flat, and when I took the battery off the negative terminal was hot enough to burn my fingers
5) could the starter switch have welded itself closed due to prolonged attempts to start
6) would the neg battery teminal get hot due to the prolonged tries and flatten the battery if the starter got stuck
I think that should be enough to go on for now but any ideas will be gratefully received as I am well out of practice (but having to relearn fast)
Many thanks for any help
Rob