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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike is a 88 gl 1500 clutch is slipping want to rebuild while in the frame if possible are there any special tools I need?
 

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Just a clutch center nut tool. It's tight work doing the clutch in frame and the slave cylinder is awkward to get out, but it can be done.
 

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The clutch rarely wears out... hence I wonder if perhaps the problem is due to a worn out Clutch Slave Cylinder instead? eg The Slave may not be fully retracting (with clutch lever outwards), in-turn not fully engaging the clutch itself.
 

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Clutch problem - '98 1500, Replacing Slave Cylinder

I have a '98 SE that I just replaced the Slave Cylinder. A few days ago, when I pulled in the clutch lever, it would intermittently stop at one of 2 points, either about 1/4" or 1/2" from being pulled in fully. I could still shift, but it was rather disconcerting. This followed 4 years of a rattling sound at idle that seemed to be coming from the clutch are at idle. When the revs went up above about 1500, the sound went away. This was a rattle, and not directly tied to engine.

The clutch issue was worrisome, but I could still shift and the bike still moved well. The only problem was that occasionally, when it decided to stick at the 1/2" point, it was not far enough to hit the switch to show the clutch was engaged to allow it to start. Finding Neutral has always been tedious, so this was a real pain.

My initial thought of fixing the clutch issue was to replace the slave cylinder, which was surprisingly easy.

To replace: I had to remove the 2 beauty covers on the left side, and the 2 covers around the passenger pegs. These could have stayed on, but it made access easier. The slave cylinder is held on by 3 bolts on the actual unit, and a 4th that holds the bleed valve pipe. There is also a bolt that holds the hose on to the unit. If you disconnect this (which you need to do to really look at it and replace any parts), drain the clutch master cylinder and loosen and disconnect this hose first.

The slave unit actually comes out very easily. I had to look through the side of the bike by the alternator, and do all the work by reaching underneath since I do not have a bike stand or lift.

The unit was filthy, and showed a lot of wear (102K miles), so I decided to replace the whole thing - about $125. I figured that the piston was hanging up due to wear and filth.

Putting back in is done in reverse - attach the clutch hose loosely with new crush washers (this can also be done once unit is in place), attach unit to clutch housing with 3 bolts, and put in 4th bolt on bleeder pipe. Torque them all down (My torque wrench did not fit underneath, however). Lastly, tighten and torque the clutch hose and bleed the clutch system.


I was smiling at how easy this was, and very satisfied in my handiwork, until I was heading out down the highway on a weekend trip today, and the clutch started slipping at high speeds. :mad: This weekend will now be spent at home.:whinger::whinger::whinger:

I'm guessing that the problem is a dirty clutch (the clutch handle seems a bit sticky when released) and a worn bearing (I hope this is all).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The clutch rarely wears out... hence I wonder if perhaps the problem is due to a worn out Clutch Slave Cylinder instead? eg The Slave may not be fully retracting (with clutch lever outwards), in-turn not fully engaging the clutch itself.
I just rebuilt the slave cylinder and master cylinder this spring wondering if it might be my oil according to some other posts used pennzoil 10w-40 don't remember clutch slipping last year. Thinking about draining and getting some regular Honda motor oil. ??????????
 

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I just rebuilt the slave cylinder and master cylinder this spring wondering if it might be my oil according to some other posts used pennzoil 10w-40 don't remember clutch slipping last year. Thinking about draining and getting some regular Honda motor oil. ??????????
If you used an energy conserving oil that would definitely make the clutch slip. Look at the seal on the back of the oil container that you used and look and see if the words "energy conserving" is on the seal. If it is, then change the oil ASAP.
 

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I just use DELO 400 LE from Wal-mart, much cheaper than Honda and good stuff, works great in my 88 1500 and 95 1500 both as well as my 82 1100

When I bought my 88 I had a very honest seller!
He told me the clutch might need replaced soon and that it had been slipping some before.
When the oil was changed last he said they used "Quick Silver" or something like that, good expensive oil I think, and that the clutch had stopped slipping for now.

Clutch never slipped on me, and when I needed to change the oil I have always ran DELO 400 LE in it since, and still no clutch slipping.

I don't know if the 88 ever had a new clutch put in it in the past or not by any owner but I don't think so, it only has 180K miles on the bike now! LOL

Delo 400 is good with the wet clutches we have. I took my 95 1500 to CA. pulling a heavy 4'x'8 trailer there, and back with a wrecked 1500 (no plastics) on the trailer behind my 95.
I never had an issue with clutch and I pulled some BIG mountains with that heavy load! 95 has about 52K on it now, I put about 20K of that on it since I got it last year and all my oil changes have been Delo 400.

There are also other good oils people like, but so far I have only ran the Delo 400
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just use DELO 400 LE from Wal-mart, much cheaper than Honda and good stuff, works great in my 88 1500 and 95 1500 both as well as my 82 1100

When I bought my 88 I had a very honest seller!
He told me the clutch might need replaced soon and that it had been slipping some before.
When the oil was changed last he said they used "Quick Silver" or something like that, good expensive oil I think, and that the clutch had stopped slipping for now.

Clutch never slipped on me, and when I needed to change the oil I have always ran DELO 400 LE in it since, and still no clutch slipping.

I don't know if the 88 ever had a new clutch put in it in the past or not by any owner but I don't think so, it only has 180K miles on the bike now! LOL

Delo 400 is good with the wet clutches we have. I took my 95 1500 to CA. pulling a heavy 4'x'8 trailer there, and back with a wrecked 1500 (no plastics) on the trailer behind my 95.
I never had an issue with clutch and I pulled some BIG mountains with that heavy load! 95 has about 52K on it now, I put about 20K of that on it since I got it last year and all my oil changes have been Delo 400.

There are also other good oils people like, but so far I have only ran the Delo 400
Thanks I Changed the oil this morning went to go for a ride and my rebuilt alternater dose not seem to be working now ready to pull my hair out
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Stupid Stupid me hate to admit it buy will I think I solved the clutch problem of slipping at times when I rebuilt the master cylinder and slave cylinder I didn't pay attention to the little rod that fits in the brass bushing on the handle and put it in backwards and it was not going down in the bushing at all hardly that held the clutch part way on i do believe possibly. clutch pull feels totally different now, when I figure my alternater problem out and get it running I will let you know.
 
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