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Discussion Starter #1
I need help please I knew this day was coming I have a 1986 GL 1200 my charging system has been going out. I checked it today and at road speed RPM it was not putting out anything under 12v. I guess the next step is a poor boy kit. I don't know how to do that kind of stuff but what the heck. Where can I get the kit and instructions. Or is there something else to try first. Please help. thanks mcfirefighter.:frown2::frown2::frown2::frown2:
 

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Just Winging It
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What is the plug repair, and how do you do it. I can do it if I have instructions or a video or something.???


Kens right and he usually is you may not need to repair the plug but you should inspect the plug.

Post some pictures if you want.

What type of volt meter do you have?

And what test points did you use?
 

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What is the plug repair, and how do you do it. I can do it if I have instructions or a video or something.???
Just forward of the battery is a plug with three yellow wires coming in and going out.
If that plug is starting to melt you may have found the problem.
The usual repair is to bypass the plug soldering the connections.
First verify that each yellow wire on the stator side of the plug has continuity to each other yellow wire and none of them have continuity to ground.
 

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Not only what was said but you could also replace the stator AFTER you determine the stator is actually bad. Take the time to verify your problem before you try to 'fix' it.
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter #11
Well I checked the 3 yellow wires tonight, the female plug was burnt a little so I took the plug out and repaired the wires. I tested the wires to see if there was continuity between them like the post said, but there was continuity from the wires to ground. So does this mean the stater is bad. The spades sticking out of the solenoid were the plug with the 3 wires in is loose in the housing it is sticking out of. What else should I do, I checked to see what the voltage was at batt. and it was under 12v. ??
 

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Junior Grue
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If any of the yellow wires that go to the stator has continuity to ground when the plug is disconnected the stator is toast.
 

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+1 What Dennis said....
 

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Just Winging It
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http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/21-102/ODZIb25HTDEyMDBJ

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I'd get the reg/reg also

Image uploading. Refresh page to view


After market is the only way to go OEM stators are not available.

I'm not necessarily recommending ricks but I've heard they are good.

You should be able to do the whole job for under $400 unless you repaint the engine while your at it.
 

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Well I checked the 3 yellow wires tonight, the female plug was burnt a little so I took the plug out and repaired the wires. I tested the wires to see if there was continuity between them like the post said, but there was continuity from the wires to ground. So does this mean the stater is bad. The spades sticking out of the solenoid were the plug with the 3 wires in is loose in the housing it is sticking out of. What else should I do, I checked to see what the voltage was at batt. and it was under 12v. ??


I am confused in what you are trying to say.


I understand that the yellow wired that came out of the stator and went into a plug. That plug was melted/burnt a bit so you removed the plug and "hard wired" yellow wires together.


QUESTION: When did you test the wires to the stator? They should have been tested AFTER you removed the plug but BEFORE you hard wired anything.


Is this what you did?


If you tested them after (before insulating the joints) then your measurement and testing will be off because the other end of the 3 yellow wires would (presumably) still be plugged into the rectifier/regulator.


If that is the case, then get access to the R/R and unplug the yellow wires from there and retest.


I am not sure what you were trying to communicate with the sentence I highlighted in bold.


Don't come to any conclusions yet!


Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok let me try this again, the yellow wires coming out of the stater going into the plug on the left of the batt. was cut out of the plug. I check each wire to ground all three had continuity. But I went ahead and spiced the wires together like it said. Then I checked the solenoid on the right side of the batt. the 4 spades sticking out of the solenoid were all gunky so I took it apart and cleaned the plug. I noticed that the spades sticking out of the solenoid were loose, so I don't know if that would hurt anything it still starts good. One of the guys said if any of the wires had continuity the stater was bad, and all three had continuity so i guess it is bad. Now I do not want to pull the motor out of the bike, so I am going to do the poor boy deal.
If I have over looked anything please let me know, I am going to start getting thing for the conversion. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What dont you get you all are the ones that told me that if any of the yellow wires had continuity the stater was bad, and what do you mean you question the testing I was using a fluke multi meter what else could I use. That is why I am here your telling me what to try then you question my test that you tell me to do. ?? .
 
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