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Help Please

2K views 31 replies 9 participants last post by  Ken Bergen 
#1 ·
I need help please I knew this day was coming I have a 1986 GL 1200 my charging system has been going out. I checked it today and at road speed RPM it was not putting out anything under 12v. I guess the next step is a poor boy kit. I don't know how to do that kind of stuff but what the heck. Where can I get the kit and instructions. Or is there something else to try first. Please help. thanks mcfirefighter.:frown2::frown2::frown2::frown2:
 
#6 ·
Kens right and he usually is you may not need to repair the plug but you should inspect the plug.

Post some pictures if you want.

What type of volt meter do you have?

And what test points did you use?
 
#8 ·
Not only what was said but you could also replace the stator AFTER you determine the stator is actually bad. Take the time to verify your problem before you try to 'fix' it.
 
#9 ·
#11 ·
Well I checked the 3 yellow wires tonight, the female plug was burnt a little so I took the plug out and repaired the wires. I tested the wires to see if there was continuity between them like the post said, but there was continuity from the wires to ground. So does this mean the stater is bad. The spades sticking out of the solenoid were the plug with the 3 wires in is loose in the housing it is sticking out of. What else should I do, I checked to see what the voltage was at batt. and it was under 12v. ??
 
#16 ·
Well I checked the 3 yellow wires tonight, the female plug was burnt a little so I took the plug out and repaired the wires. I tested the wires to see if there was continuity between them like the post said, but there was continuity from the wires to ground. So does this mean the stater is bad. The spades sticking out of the solenoid were the plug with the 3 wires in is loose in the housing it is sticking out of. What else should I do, I checked to see what the voltage was at batt. and it was under 12v. ??


I am confused in what you are trying to say.


I understand that the yellow wired that came out of the stator and went into a plug. That plug was melted/burnt a bit so you removed the plug and "hard wired" yellow wires together.


QUESTION: When did you test the wires to the stator? They should have been tested AFTER you removed the plug but BEFORE you hard wired anything.


Is this what you did?


If you tested them after (before insulating the joints) then your measurement and testing will be off because the other end of the 3 yellow wires would (presumably) still be plugged into the rectifier/regulator.


If that is the case, then get access to the R/R and unplug the yellow wires from there and retest.


I am not sure what you were trying to communicate with the sentence I highlighted in bold.


Don't come to any conclusions yet!


Tim
 
#15 ·
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/21-102/ODZIb25HTDEyMDBJ



I'd get the reg/reg also



After market is the only way to go OEM stators are not available.

I'm not necessarily recommending ricks but I've heard they are good.

You should be able to do the whole job for under $400 unless you repaint the engine while your at it.
 
#17 ·
Ok let me try this again, the yellow wires coming out of the stater going into the plug on the left of the batt. was cut out of the plug. I check each wire to ground all three had continuity. But I went ahead and spiced the wires together like it said. Then I checked the solenoid on the right side of the batt. the 4 spades sticking out of the solenoid were all gunky so I took it apart and cleaned the plug. I noticed that the spades sticking out of the solenoid were loose, so I don't know if that would hurt anything it still starts good. One of the guys said if any of the wires had continuity the stater was bad, and all three had continuity so i guess it is bad. Now I do not want to pull the motor out of the bike, so I am going to do the poor boy deal.
If I have over looked anything please let me know, I am going to start getting thing for the conversion. Thanks.
 
#20 ·
What dont you get you all are the ones that told me that if any of the yellow wires had continuity the stater was bad, and what do you mean you question the testing I was using a fluke multi meter what else could I use. That is why I am here your telling me what to try then you question my test that you tell me to do. ?? .
 
#21 ·
It is not the meter you are using, it is just the phrasing of how you worded it.
We can't see where, or how you are testing the stator.

The stator must be tested independently of any other wiring on the bike, the regulator must be disconnected from the 3 yellow wires coming out of the stator.

Grounding one lead of the Fluke, and touching any one of the 3 yellow wires (from the stator) with the Ohm Meter position on "say, the 1k ohms scale" and you see any continuity to ground at all, the stator is bad...

And, as Ken said, since all 3 windings are tied to a common point, if any one of the 3 windings has a bad place, and the winding touches the frame, all 3 windings will show a path to ground.
Or, "shorted to ground" in laymen's terms.

I'm a life long electronic's tech, and showing someone "hands on" is a lot easier than trying to explicitly make sure that the words we write down make it clear to someone else what we are doing.
 
#25 ·
The YouTube link is just one way to test a stator, it obviously can be done "live" while the engine is running. All 3 yellow wires should give an equal A/C voltage reading to ground.

The video states 4 VAC, so I assume that is "typical", but I have never had to test a stator on any of the two 1200s that I owned.


If the yellow wires are disconnected, and you make a running voltage test, from any yellow wire, to any other yellow wire, all 3 legs should be equal..... somewhere between 50 VAC and 70 VAC.

and the engine running 2500 rpm or more.
 
#26 ·
The video states 4 VAC, so I assume that is "typical", but I have never had to test a stator on any of the two 1200s that I owned.
In the video Steve is testing for VDC. :surprise:
I've always felt that his test tells you more about the rectifier diodes than the stator but what do I know?:ROFL:
 
#28 ·
I never tested mine for continuity.

I test at the battery with a fully charge battery at 3k rpm should have 14V no more than 15v and no less than 13v.

Have you done this test?

 
#29 ·
A stator exchange including the reg/reg and gaskets can be done in one day. Dropping the engine is not that hard because part of the frame unbolts. The cost would be under $400.

The poorboy seems to take 3 days to a week and cost just over $600.

The stator issues on these bike was due to the stator plug over heating otherwise the stator last 200k miles or more.

I think the poorboy is more difficult than pulling the engine.

Test the volts at the battery at 3k rpm
 
#31 ·
the world of electronics can be confusing at times, and with a long wire run like you just described, there can be inductance situations to be considered, and possible poor connections in between that would allow a high resistance to show up with full voltage on a Digital DVM, but with an analog meter that actually requires a bit of current to make it work, it would show a lessor value.

Put a load on the end of that long run of wire, and retest again and get the true condition of that length of wire. :)

So many things to consider, when testing in the world of electricity....
Even on DC volts stuff, poor resistance connections will show "good on a DVM" and in service, be an "open circuit".
 
#32 ·
the world of electronics can be confusing at times, and with a long wire run like you just described, there can be inductance situations to be considered, and possible poor connections in between that would allow a high resistance to show up with full voltage on a Digital DVM, but with an analog meter that actually requires a bit of current to make it work, it would show a lessor value.
That was exactly the case, a poor connection.

The point is that the stator has many yards of wire and even though a DVM may show acceptable potential voltage a high resistance somewhere in the wire may prevent that potential being cared as an amperage.
 
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