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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I am a new kid on the block, and I have a GL 1100,

I am to to point of having the carbs almost removed and my last step
is removing the throttle cables. I am scratching my head wondering
how the heck to get a wrench in there and remove them.

I also am wondering why to remove the top covers off carbs
1 and 3 ? looks like there is enough room to slide the whole
carb assy, to the left without removing them.

will the carbs come out all the way without removing the left crash bar as well?

THANKS FOR ANY INFO !

Jeff
 

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I take the left hand crashbar off when I remove the carbs. Also turn or remove the right hand manifolds along with the tops, springs and slides.
Find the cable adjuster which will be by where the airfilter was and slacken the cable then with the rack lose move it to the left and disconnect the throttle cables from the rack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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But I can not get a wrench in there to remove the throttle

cables. also if and when I figure it out. should I remove

the bottom nuts or try the top one on the throttle cables?

Thanks,

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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OK Tim, I will try that.. I am in the garage
with the garage computer on, So don't go away *lol*
Thanks,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Darn, Guess I am missing something, I now have the 1 & 3
carb covers off , the manifolds are turned, still trying
to figure out the RACK part and how to remove the throttle
cables , I know it must be easy but I am not seeing it.
Sheesh, sorry guys for being so stupid about this.
but I am this far :) (( so close but yet so far))
Thanks,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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oh and the right side crash bar is now removed.
carbs just don't want to come out of the left side
very far to remove the cables.
 

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1100 std carbs are pretty easy to remove. I have big ham hands and could reach in and remove the cables with the carbs in place. They won't come out the right as far as I know. take the bolt out of the top of the gas tank and it will slide back a little to give more room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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oops!!! I meant the left side. sorry I will keep trying David!
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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David, so you were using a 10 mm wrench and getting
it in there somehow and losing the bottom nut off
each cable and then removing the cables correct?

My problem is getting the wrench on the nuts and
turning them with no room to turn the wrench. I gatta not be seeing it yet, sheesh.
Jeff
 

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Oh yes, I have a wrench I ground off to make it go into tight places and I think that's what I used. Loosen the top nut, it doesn't have to come all the way off, just enough to slip out of the bracket.
 

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Jeff
I had the same problem the first time I took mine off I was trying to get at them from the side and someone said try loosening it from the top and I was able to get the wrench in from the top. Maybe your already trying that.
Kim
 

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I have to use two 10mm wrenches to start the cables lose. Then you should be able to do the rest with your fingers.
If you are taking the rack out to clean them etc make sure you do a really good job and remember that near enough is NOT good enough. If you're like me you'll get good at removing and replacing them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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OK guys, going in from the TOP
and then I AM gunna remove them *LOL*
I will let you know when I get them out !
might be a few more hours ! hehehe
I know it is easy once you have done it once
or twice ~S~
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Ok Guys I now have cables the off, putting them back on
will be another time ! You guys are removing the
carbs out the left side of the bike correct?
(sitting on bike)
 

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Here's what I do; route the cable outside the frame on the left side..then you can put the cables on with the carbs sitting outside the frame easy to get to the crank wheel..and if you have to take them off you can pull the carbs out far enough to get them off w/o killing yourself. The cables will ride just under the false tank and are also totally hidden by the fairing and the tank..another benefit is that the routing gives the cables a bigger curve so less strain on the cables.

If you look at the routing now it goes aroudn the steering stem and then into the center of the frame where the air box sits..mine go outside the left side of the frame along the bottom of the false tank...and then turn in at the rear of the carbs..

if you need a pic I can take one for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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-OK Guys Got'em out..





--Great Idea RB..



I am trying to turn this bike back into a standard.

I have removed ALL of the Vetter Parts. All I need

is the front Original Turn Signals and the headlight

Housing.

Not sure if anybody is close enough. Or is interested

in the Vetter parts. (complete) And all I want is

the (2) above items. why is it so hard to find them with

so many that have been removed?



I would like to thank ALL of you for your help today!



Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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RB wrote:
Here's what I do; route the cable outside the frame on the left side..then you can put the cables on with the carbs sitting outside the frame easy to get to the crank wheel..and if you have to take them off you can pull the carbs out far enough to get them off w/o killing yourself. The cables will ride just under the false tank and are also totally hidden by the fairing and the tank..another benefit is that the routing gives the cables a bigger curve so less strain on the cables.

If you look at the routing now it goes aroudn the steering stem and then into the center of the frame where the air box sits..mine go outside the left side of the frame along the bottom of the false tank...and then turn in at the rear of the carbs..

if you need a pic I can take one for you.
Would love a pic RB I think I will do that as well. not even a fairing in the

way anymore :)
 
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