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1980 GL1100 Interstate I'm trying to restore.

I pulled carbs, took everything apart other than the butterflys.
I boiled all the housing in distilled weather and also cleaned all the parts with foil. Also used carb cleaner.

My problem is I cannot get the Idle port on # 4 open. I've tried brake cleaner, carb cleaner, seafoam, air pressure of 100 PSI + with no luck.

I even took a small cutting torch tip cleaner and no Joy.

I have the other three ready to go with all new parts-- O rings etc.


Thanks for any suggestions

BTW, as I told others, I'm about ready to use the cutting torch rather than tip cleaner to open it up.:lash:
 

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I don't have any sage advice to give but if it were mine I would strip #4 down again to as bare an assembly as possible and soak it in a quart of Berryman's Chemdip overnight. Wash it in the morning with the water hose and follow with well concentrated compressed air. If Berryman's Chemdip overnight and compressed air in the morning doesen't loosten the crud, throw the carb away and get a replacement.
 

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TominDallas wrote:
I don't have any sage advice to give but if it were mine I would strip #4 down again to as bare an assembly as possible and soak it in a quart of Berryman's Chemdip overnight. Wash it in the morning with the water hose and follow with well concentrated compressed air.
that looks like some good advice . just don't give up on it. move things around when they are submerged to get the air out of the passages and the good stuff in.
 

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Some of those things defy cleaning. The jet is so small cleaners can't get to the blockage. A bristle out of a wire brush is about all that will fit through it. They can be pulled out with a small fine thread sheet metal screw, run the screw in tight and grasp it with side cutting pliers and use the main jet tower for a lever point and it will pop out, won't hurt the jet. Then you can get to it and the passage to clean it.
 

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Use single strand wire, very small gauge, and fish through the circuit. It'll punch through. I use a single strand of wire from 1/4" safety cable. Icut them about 16" long or so. After I fish through, I can tie-off a circuit when it's clean and move to another.
 

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Check around and see if you have a local radiator shop with an ultrasonic vat. Good Luck Jay
 

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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
Use single strand wire, very small gauge, and fish through the circuit. It'll punch through. I use a single strand of wire from 1/4" safety cable. Icut them about 16" long or so. After I fish through, I can tie-off a circuit when it's clean and move to another.
You can get a wire through 2 or 3 90* turns, I am impressed.
 

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Thanks all, I've tried the wire thing with no luck I even tried bending the tip on the wire in hopes I could hit the exit port with no joy. I have considered the screw extration way and may try that next, if no luck you may see a parts bike. With purchase of bike and carb kits its very frustrating but for now I'm not going to give up--thats not me.

Again -- thanks all.
 

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Badwench wrote:
Thanks all, I've tried the wire thing with no luck I even tried bending the tip on the wire in hopes I could hit the exit port with no joy. I have considered the screw extration way and may try that next, if no luck you may see a parts bike. With purchase of bike and carb kits its very frustrating but for now I'm not going to give up--thats not me.

Again -- thanks all.
You're going to get the bleepin' thing running one way or another, hear me? :lash:
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
Use single strand wire, very small gauge, and fish through the circuit. It'll punch through. I use a single strand of wire from 1/4" safety cable. Icut them about 16" long or so. After I fish through, I can tie-off a circuit when it's clean and move to another.
You can get a wire through 2 or 3 90* turns, I am impressed.

Patience, the right wire, a good technique... and it's all good.

There's a bunch of pics in that PB page showing wires tied-off after passing through various circuits.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h393/CaptainMidnight85/GL1100_Carbs/106_0618.jpg
 

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I would pull it out and try to clean it. It has several 90 degree holes at the base of the jet that no wire will go through while installed in the carb. The bottom of the jet seats against the carb body so it is not a straight through shot. The top part of the jet is also very small. I believe around .010 and also does not look to be a round hole so if you think it may be damaged or you can't get it cleaned you can buy a new jet (82-83) grind down the threads and press it in. Good luck
 

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Well what goes up must come down and what goes in must come out. What I finally did was to take a # 6 X 1 5/8 fine thread drywall screw. I cut a piece of 1X2 board to use as a fulcrum or pry point for a pair of heavy duty terminal crimper pliers. Before trying to pull I measured how far in the top was, which I now know the bottom of the jet seats on the carb body. Knowing heat will cause expansion I took a heat gun --a glorified hair dryer--and heated up the one chamber housing the jet. I did not try to slowly pull it out, I just gave it one quick pull and it came out like a tooth. I might add I only tighten the screw about 1/4 turn.
After seeing how the jet is made which is much like the main jet holder with the small side ports and seeing how plugged they were I know I did the right thing. No way in the world could I have ever got any size or type wire through all 8 of the small holes. After cleaning jet and verifying all the related carb ports were open I took a small wooden dowel and taped in back into place.
Just wish I had known what it looked like to began with.
Being its too cold to go work on it some more this morning I'll share my other efforts. After I put all the carbs together I placed it on a level work bench and connected a hose to the fuel inlet and filled all the float bowls up. In doing so I found # 2 was set too high. Before adjusting, I drained each fuel bowl and measured it. What I found was the other 3 held 46 CCs of fuel and # 2 well exceeded that amount. I've not seen anything posted in regards to just how much is the correct amount but think it would be a way to verify float setting.

I next went and started the installation, the hardest part was keeping the intake O rings in place, to me the replacement ones are not near as fat as the old ones. I think now I should have used a dab of silicone or grease to hold in place.

Well I put the fuel to it and then when I tried to start it --nothing- never even popped or anything, then I remembered -- Spark plug wires stupid-- it's the age thing:doh:. Tried again and varoooooooooommmmmm:jumper:. Did not try to adjust as by that time it was miller time X 2.:cheers: But also I don't want to run anymore before I take on and replace the timing belts.


Have photos I'll try to post.


Again,

Thanks all for the info and encouragement.
 

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I had assumed the jets were pulled. Of course, the jets need to be pulled before trying to fish a wire through the circuits. As said, pressed or screwed-in, they've got to come out.

As a note, when disassembling the carbs either as a rack or individually, don't mix-up the tops and sliders. They are matched to the bodies. In the pic above, you can see 4 punch marks made to the carb body at the bowl flange. The same marks are on the tops and bottoms of each corresponding carbs parts. Makes for easy identifying of what goes where without worrying about mixing stuff up.
 

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46cc is plenty close. I have diligently set the floats on a couple different sets and do the same as you and drain out 1.5oz. (44cc) each.
 

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Tks Young , just wish I had seen your post with picture.
I just keep looking at that brass valve and knew if it went in it had to come out.

Tks dave, then i'm close on floats.
Have timing belts here tomorrow --from Napa auto store of all places. Need to read up more on the " how to" and take care of some honey dos before I start that trip.
 

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There is still the hole that goes through the center of the jet (the actual jet orifice), hope you got that cleaned out too.
 
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