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I have seen this topic on here somewhere, did a search for battery, and came up with hundreds of threads.



It seems like massive stuff to look at so I am hoping someone can remember where to find this.



Someone on here went through a process of restore a battery back to use. It seemed like a lot of work and I was thinking it wasn't worth it. However, I have a different bike with a very expensive battery. Its a small battery YT12B-BS Yuasa, $140.00, I just want to finish out the year with it, money is short.



Anyways, I am looking for the thread about restoring a battery, does anyone remember where it is or what to reference to slim down the search?
 

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Might try this if the battery want take a charge. Pour acid out of battery in a plastic container. Plastic so acid will not corrode the container. Make sure all acid is removed from battery. Then mix water and baking soda. About 3 table spoons of sodato a pint of water. Pour this in the battery and stand back. It is going to foam and bubble. This will clean buildup off plates. Pour soda and water from battery after bubbling slows down. The acid is neutrilized but don't try to drink it. Rinse inside of battery with water until you believe all soda is rinsed away. Fill battery with acid and put on slow charge. If you use old acid do not pour the sludge buildup in bottom of container. Use gloves and keep your eyes protected at all time. Acid can do somedamage so be careful. If the plates are shorted out because of bad insulators this will not work. If the battery is junk it's worth a try. It's worked for me before and good luck. Not responsible for accedents.
 

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Turns out that is an AGM battery. Can't recondition this one. Found an alternate for $80.00 Still pricey, this battery is so small. This is just wrong.
 

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try walmart batteries. washing the inside of a battery will take you one hour, maybe two. worth the try.
 

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I'll throw my 2 cents in...

In my world, battery desulfation means annual maintenance. Crystallized lead sulfates in a battery can only becompletely (and it's never really completely) removed by matched frequency, pulse-pounding, high-voltage anarchy.
If you're seeing the wavy-whites, then it won't last long no matter what you do.
If it's not wavy, it's a process worth pursuing with staged effort.
Without dissertation, here's a linkofan approximate process I use (close, but not identical):
http://eduhosting.org/classes/windgens/fixbatts.html
If you can't get your hands on some EDTA, substitute for the Baking Soda mentioned above. Though it is not a correct binder it will do the job enough.
If it'san acceptable candidate, providing the time and patience necessary to properly rejuvenate will be worth the effort. You may see thoserecently removedcar batteries at your local garage in a different light.

Sulfation is why a lead-acid automotive battery has a shelf life. Your local Interstate depot (not dealer) has a select amount amount of batteries whose shelf-life has past and they are for sale at much-discounted rates. Knowing the process, and combating the effects, of sulfateaccumulation is worth the effort. Because of their time constraints, many mechanics do not fully understand the process.

"Just put a new battery in it!"
 

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The AMG batteries can't be cleaned out as the glass matting is the material that retains the acid.



The comment about just put a new battery in it... I was trying to make it to the end of the season of riding as money is really tight now. The new battery is a lead plated battery. I believe these are the ones that can be cleaned out if anyone wants to spend the time and it is a little dangerous.



Put a new battery in it, not happy about spending the money but it is done.
 

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Sorry ChasW... I meant the "battery comment"in reference to what auto shops mechanics tend to say.

I missed the AGM post somehow.

If you have an AGM that is not holding a charge, you can still rejuvenate it assuming there are not enough deposits to deform the plates to a short and there are no other evidences of short-circuiting. You'll have to deep-discharge to a short, as the link process suggests, following a cycled charge/discharge pattern and then pulse-charged over a period of weeks. It's a lot of work that is worth trying-out, but only if it passes initial testing. The idea is to get the deposits down to microscopic levels. Being unable to see into that battery presents some obstacles, understandably.


PS - Mamy times apotentiallysalvagable sealed battery will meet its demise through the heat generated by continuing to use it... for whatever reason. Liquid (or Gel) goes to gas, gas builds pressure and is released by venting. Once gone, it's gone.
 
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