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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As seen here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-digital-O ... TQ:GB:1123

I bought one of these(the 11x version) to try to make it work on my 1100. The results so far are not promising. I have everything hooked up except the speedo. I haven't tried the tach yet as right now the engine has no oil and the radiator isn't on the bike. I am also finishing up replacing the orings and seals on the water pump. I had the radiator checked out and cleaned. Fortunately, he was able to clean the tubes good and he said it was in good shape. There is no wiring for a neutral light. For some reason, it has a hookup for the brake light switch. I tried to use it for the neutral light, but it is not working as it doesn't have a separate ground. I think it would if it did. The temp sensor does not work. It has a wire for the oil float indicator. It took me awhile to figure out that is the fuel gage. It reads full, and the tank is full, but not sure how it'll work as the fuel gage is in the 7 volt system. The high beam and turn signal indicators work fine. I will keep studying it and try to figure out ways to make the other stuff work.

It comes with a cable with a sensor on the end to read a magnet you mount on the front wheel. I haven't figured out a way to mount the magnet yet. It looks like I can mount the magnet to the brake rotor by drilling a hole in the base of the rotor and mounting the sensor to the bottom of the left fork. I'll let you know how that comes out. The 1100 gage setup has a square 9 pin connector that the connector on this unit matches up perfectly. However, most of wires you need to hook up are not in that 9 pin connector. I found a matching male and female connector at a local junk store that work perfectly. Using them I was able to connect all the wiring without a lot of problems. If the tach, and speedo work good along with the turn signals and light indicators, I will probably just figure out a way to mount the 1100 gas and temp gages and figure out a separate neutral light. Then I have to figure out a seal for the tach cable at the engine, but that shouldn't be hard. If nothing else, I'll leave the tach cable in place and hide it under the shelter.

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions on this, I'm all ears.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are the total instructions that you get when you buy one of these units.

Orange wire to left turn signal light
Light Blue wire to right turn signal light
Blue wire to the highlight Indictor
Blue/White wire to the water temperature sensor
Yellow/White wire to the oil float sensor
Black/Yellow "Wire to the engine pulse,
or the positive of the Ignition coil"
Red "wire to the power positive, before the ignition switch
Or directly wire on the positive of the battery.
Make sure the power always on"
Green wire to the power negative
Black "Wire to the ignition switch positive
or the oil gauge 12V positive"
Green/Yellow Wire to the brake (either handle bar switch or the foot brake switch)

1 The left button is turn of the single mile and total mile.
2. The right button is the turn or oil volume and the water temperature.
3. When you want to set the time, please press the left button first, when you see the screen shows "odo", then keep press the right one about 5 seconds. Then you will see the set part sparkly. And then the left button can choose the hour and minute and the right button can set the time. Then press the right button again for 5 second. The the time set is complete.
- hercolor
Here are some pics of the installation so far.

This pic shows the wiring mess. The relay you can see is for the neutral light. The 9 pin connector just below the relay is the connector that the original dash plugged into. I have a mating connector on it to patch across to the new unit. The white 9 pin connector to the right is the connector on the end of the new unit's wiring harness. It is a perfect match for the original 9 pin connector for the original dashboard. I was lucky enough to find a couple matching 9 pin connectors at a junk shop down the street. It sure made things easier. The wire colors don't match, but it isn't hard to figure out what is going where.



This next pic shows how I have it mounted.



Next shows the Red "P" and the High Beam indicator.



The next one shows the left turn signal and "neutral" light.



This one shows the "neutral" light and right turn indicator.



Ok, I now have a speedometer! I made the bracket for the sensor, mounted the magnetized bolt and it works. At least it works up to about 6 mph. That's what I got out of it spinning the front wheel.





Friday, I'll get the rest of the bike put back together and take it for a ride. My next project is to install a Rostra cruise control. I won't be able to work on it tomorrow, Wed, and Thur. I work tomorrow, and immediately after work I'm going to Rogers, AR to dog sit/house sit for my brother while he gets some medical stuff done in Little Rock. Then I work again Thursday.

If anyone has any questions on this setup feel free to ask. It was easier than I originally thought it would be.
 

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Very cool!
Best of luck making it all work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It is working now. I just have to get the rest of the bike back together and take it on the road. Once I've made sure there are no bugs to work out, I'll start putting a Rostra cruise control on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here are the results I see after about 60 miles of riding. It was a very bright day, and the turn signal lights are very dim. You have to look close to see if they're flashing or not. The other indicators are ok, not real big but noticeable. When riding into the sun it's hard to read the speedo, but that's to be expected. The tach reads a bit lower than the mechanical tach did. I don't know which is right. At 60 mph, it's reading about 3200 rpm. The speedo is about 5% high, but that could be my measurement of the circumference of the front tire. The temp gage seems to be working fine, but the gas gage hasn't moved at all yet, so don't know how that's going to work out. The speedo was checked with my street pilot gps. The odo and trip meter seem to work fine. I'm still not sure how to reset the trip meter. I'm thinking some kind of shade will help on the readability. That's what I use on the gps, and it helps a lot. I might try tilting the unit up some more and rigging the shade for the mechanical gages to shield this unit. I will probably keep this unit as I'm tired of replacing speedos and tachs. I hope the gas gage proves out to be at least somewhat useful. Whether or not I buy another one for my 76 remains to be seen or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I rode the bike another 70 miles today. The gas gage still hasn't moved, and I've used probably a little over 3 gallons. I'm thinking since the fuel sender unit is designed for 7 volts, I probably need to add some resistance to the circuit. I'm going to find a small variable resister and do some testing with it. I'm pretty sure that circuit in the unit is using 12 volts vice 7. If I reduce the circuit voltage to 7 volts, that ought to make it work closer to correct anyway. There's no place around here that will be open till Monday that might have what I want, so that's pretty much on hold till Monday. Tomorrow, I'll experiment with a shade for the unit like I use on my gps, work on my vehicles in the morning and ride in the afternoon.
 

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It's pretty clear if you copied the instructions word for word the translation didn't come out real well. Did they not give some instruction on calibrating the fuel gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nope. You saw everything I got. The instructions were emailed to me by the ebay site. I have made a few suggestions to the seller, and he claims to have sent the suggestions to the manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
More progress on the unit. I punched holes eliminating the film aver the leds for the turn signals. They're brighter in the shop. Hopefully there is improvement out on the road. I disconnected the neutral light and connected the oil pressure sensor to the brake light. It works nice. I bought a dash light and hooked it up under the unit for a neutral light. Couldn't find a green one, so it's red for now. The gas gauge still isn't reading anything but full. I bought a pot to try, but don't know if it's enough or not. The tank is full and we've had a couple days rain, snow and cold. According to the seller, the gauge is looking for 510 ohms. If so, I will have to get some more resisters.

I started installing a Rostra Universal Cruise Control unit yesterday. The unit is now mounted. It's behind the right saddlebag just to the rear of the shock. I hope to get it wired today. More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yesterday I got the linkage connector made for the throttle linkage. It will connect to the throttle on carb #4. I also got the wiring run towards the front of the bike and the ground connected. I had to leave then to help a friend out and didn't get back. I should be able to get quite a bit done today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Everything is hooked up and I took it on the road. The single magnet on the front wheel doesn't give enough pulses per mile for the rostra. I bought a tach filter and will try hooking that up next. It's very smooth actuating and works fine. It's just that the lowest setting for pulses per mile is 2000 and it's only getting 478, so it won't hold a steady speed. It thinks it is, but the variation in pulses count is incorrect for what it needs. I'll have the tach sensor late next week and it should take a hour or so to hook it up and disconnect the other setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, still no luck. I installed the tach sensor and that didn't work. I called Rostra tech support and they said that would not work. When they found out I was installing it on a GoldWing, they REFUSED to talk to me any more! They don't approve and WILL NOT SUPPORT this type installation.

I ordered the magnet sensor and installed that. It still doesn't work. When I return from a trip to S Dakota, I'll tear it all down and make absolutely sure everything is hooked up right. Right now the self-diagnostics are not working right either. I may be totally hosed on this one. We'll see after the 14th of June.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, I'm getting tired of the Hercolor. In the last 3000 miles, it has registered over 10,000 miles. Occasionally it starts reading over 200 mph constantly. The first time it did it, it registered 1144 miles in a 40 mile stretch of interstate. I contacted the seller, and I guess they're going to replace it when I send them some pictures of it doing it. One day it would work great, another day it would go crazy, and sometimes, it would just show zero. I'm glad I had my streetpilot with me. Right now, my recommendation is don't buy it.
 

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Thanks for doing all the hard work Larry. I can't imagine any of these units still working 20 years from now like most the OEM analogue units.
 

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Did you go through all the pain because your old dash clocks etc had failed or did you see it as simply a nice alternative?
Hopefully you can just go back to using the stock type of clocks without any problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I went to the Hercolor because I had gone through 4 used speedometers and 3 used tachs. I'll be getting a replacement in soon. I might end up doing like I did on my 76. I have a mini speedo and mini tach I bought off either Bike Bandit or Partsnmore. They've done well for the last 40k.
 

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My goodness Larry, you sure do eat them!!!! :shock:

Best of luck in resolving the issue!! :waving:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm back with stock speedo and tach now. Using the vss from the speedo, my cruise control works fine. I figured out what the problem was with the magnets. I changed the wrong switch setting and it was looking for a square signal vice a sine wave. It needs a little fine tuning, but is usable now.

I'll try to do a better job of keeping up with this thread. I'm not getting notifications of posts again.
 
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