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On the way home from work Friday, pulled in to fill up with gas, bike would not restart. Battery was completely dead. Would not even turn over. Got the bike home and charged battery overnite. Started right up. This is my daily commuter bike (25 miles each way). Has not given a stutter or slow start at all. Everything is stock with no add on bling or lights.



Replaced stator (third time) and battery last May. Battery is a sealed type YUSA.

Connectors have been cut out and soldered. No notice of any burning or such. We have had a couple months of high 90's and low 100 temps. Hope its just the battery dying from heat.



Battery reads 13.5 V sitting and drops to 12.5during starter turn over.



How do I test battery to see if it is good?



Is it possible to test the stator without cutting the three wires loose and having to resolder them yet again?
 

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You should be able to take your battery to an auto parts store and have it load tested,Sharpen the probe on a multi meter test your three wires by pushing it through the insulation then cover the probe holes with liquid electrical tape to seal them.
 

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My guess is you have short someplace. With the battery fully charged key off disconnect the battery. If you get a spark from the terminal you have a power drain someplace. 12.5 sounds good to me at start-up.
 

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Should your stator prove to be defective you should consider a poorboy alternator(externel).They are well worth the effort to install and forever simplify your voltage needs.
 

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Just curious what brand stator you are using. You don't list your mileage at least not that I saw but either way I would say 3 stator seems excessive. I would almost say battery is good for sure. If you are seeing over 12 volts during startup that's a pretty good indication of a strong battery. Try 2 or 3 starts spaced about 10 seconds apart. If all 3 starts seemstrong and you stay pretty consistent with the volts during the start attempts then I'd pretty much rule out the battery. For bike to be completely dead after fueling up you'd have to have a very fast draw. I'd say more likely you aren't charging whether from another faulty stator, more bad connections, a bad voltage regulator or a combination of these things.

You nention volts static after charging at 13.5-that's high but normal read since you likely just took it off charger. What the read with bike at idle? What about 3000RPM?

Start bike and let it idle for a while with lights on. If you gradually lose voltage then bike is not charging and is just running battery down.

You stated your connections have been soldered. Which ones? Did you get the connectors near the regulator/rectifier?
 

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When running At 3000 I am pushing around 13.8 and 14 when started. I agree with Wingsam..I just went through the whole shooting match.Whats your Voltage regulator say that you installed(Hint,Hint)
 

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Stator, rectifier and voltage regulator were all from RM Stator, 8000 miles ago. The previous one only lasted 15,000.
 

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hillbilly1 wrote:
On the way home from work Friday, pulled in to fill up with gas, bike would not restart.  Battery was completely dead. Would not even turn over. Got the bike home and charged battery overnite. Started right up. This is my daily commuter bike (25 miles each way). Has not given a stutter or slow start at all. Everything is stock with no add on bling or lights.

 

Replaced stator (third time) and battery last May.  Battery is a sealed type YUSA.

Connectors have been cut out and soldered. No notice of any burning or such. We have had a couple months of high 90's and low 100 temps. Hope its just the battery dying from heat.

 

Battery reads 13.5 V sitting and drops to 12.5 during starter turn over.

 

How do I test battery to see if it is good?

 

Is it possible to test the stator without cutting the three wires loose and having to resolder them yet again?

 

 
Hillbilly1...
Maybe this will help, I had similar issues to what you are describing and tested everything front to back. Found my problem was at the starter solenoid.

I made a write-up for fellow wingers...
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/120852.html

Good Luck....
 

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if you have a battery with just 12v you have a dead duck. it should be 12.6 min. if you havent already install a voltmeter on the rascal. walkabout :)
 

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hillbilly1 wrote:
Stator, rectifier and voltage regulator were all from RM Stator, 8000 miles ago. The previous one only lasted 15,000.

Well there you go.

OEM would have been cheaper, huh?
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
hillbilly1 wrote:
Stator, rectifier and voltage regulator were all from RM Stator, 8000 miles ago. The previous one only lasted 15,000.
Will there you go.

OEM would have been cheaper, huh?
Dennis...+1...I missed that part on the RM Stators....they are that Chinese knock off junk that I believe a lot of folks have had problems with.

I went with a Ricks Stator...made in the US and highly recommended.....
 
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