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I'm excited to find this group. People seem friendly and helpful. I have a 1998 GL1500 SE. I let it sit too long after a knee replacement I had and now I'm paying for it.It wold only run on full choke. I took off carbs and cleaned jets and replaced o-rings that were eaten up. I started it up ran like a million bucks. Idled and all. I noticed the petcock was leaking so I ordered a kit and rebuilt it also changed fuel filter. While I was waiting for rebuild kit I put the bike back together(plastic parts taken off to get to carbs). After rebuilding petcock and replacing fuel filter I tried to start it. I now have no power going to fuel pump. I can jump 12v to B terminal and it will run and fill filter. What happened? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
 

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:welc:


Welcome aboard Cap'n. I'm going to move this thread to the Tech forum, where it will get more attention.


Now, if you would please, fill in your profile with your city, state and bike information.



Thank you.
 

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I'm excited to find this group. People seem friendly and helpful. I have a 1998 GL1500 SE. I let it sit too long after a knee replacement I had and now I'm paying for it.It wold only run on full choke. I took off carbs and cleaned jets and replaced o-rings that were eaten up. I started it up ran like a million bucks. Idled and all. I noticed the petcock was leaking so I ordered a kit and rebuilt it also changed fuel filter. While I was waiting for rebuild kit I put the bike back together(plastic parts taken off to get to carbs). After rebuilding petcock and replacing fuel filter I tried to start it. I now have no power going to fuel pump. I can jump 12v to B terminal and it will run and fill filter. What happened? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
Several things could cause no power to the fuel pump.

Note; I hate to ask but is the Kill switch in the ON/RUN position....???

The ECM powers the fuel pump. Here is how the ECM gets power:

1. The # 11 ignition/cruise "15-amp" fuse.

2. The # 6 ignition/cruise relay.

3. The Kill switch.

Output power from the Kill switch goes to the ECM.

Testing:

1. Push the cruise switch INWARD to turn on the cruise control. Does the cruise ON light in the dash illuminate. If so, the Kill switch is good.

2. If no light, turn the Kill switch OFF and ON a couple of times.

3. If no light, check the # 11 ignition/cruise "15-amp" fuse.

4. If good, open the right handlebar switch cluster and bend the top half of the cluster backwards to expose the Kill switch connections.

5. Check if the two wires are secured to the Kill switch (screws are tight).

6. Check the black/white (output wire) for power.

7. If no power, check the black/light green (input wire) for power.

8. If power, the Kill switch is faulty/bad.

9. If no power, check the # 6 ignition/cruise relay.

There could also be a problem at the Red "9-pin" connector behind the right lower fairing panel (behind the right fairing marker light).

Output from the relay passes through this connector enroute to the Kill switch.

BTW.....Does the starter run when you press the starter switch.....?? If so, the Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) that grounds the relay is good.

Last stop would be the ECM.

Let us know what you find. Hopefully you will find something here....!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow. Great information.
I will start checking these out. Starter works and kill switch works. Thanks so much for your reply and time.
 

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I checked everything except red 9 pin connector (too much plastic to take off this evening). I had power to kill switch so do I still need to check 9 pin connector? If the next stop is the ECM what do I do with it, replace?
Where is it located? Can I bypass it with a relay or something to fuel pump?
Thanks again.
 

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Wow. Great information.
I will start checking these out. Starter works and kill switch works. Thanks so much for your reply and time.
Then the # 11 ignition fuse, # 6 ignition relay and the Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) are all good.

Have you checked the connections at the fuel pump. Clean and tight connections....??

At the White "4-pin" connector at the fuel pump:

1. Check for power on the black/blue wire (while pressing the starter switch). Should have power.

2. Check for power on the light blue wire (while pressing the starter switch). Should have power.

This will verify output power (or not) from the ECM.

It will also verify if the fuel pump filter is good (or not). This filter is on the SE for the CB and power goes through this filter enroute to the fuel pump.

Note: You could also jumper from the black/blue wire to the light blue wire (this would bypass the fuel pump filter).

If all the above is good, then:

Maybe a broken wire or bad splice between the Kill switch and the ECM. (not too likely)

Maybe a problem with the ECM output to the fuel filter. (I have know of a couple cases like this)

Maybe a broken wire between the ECM and the fuel pump. (not too likely)

Note: With power jumpered to the fuel pump, will the engine start and run ok...??
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Question about #8
I had power( with key on ) on both wires screwed down to kill switch when in run position. In off position power to one wire only.
 

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I checked everything except red 9 pin connector (too much plastic to take off this evening). I had power to kill switch so do I still need to check 9 pin connector? If the next stop is the ECM what do I do with it, replace?
Where is it located? Can I bypass it with a relay or something to fuel pump?
Thanks again.
First and foremost do you understand how the fuel pump is triggered? When you push the start button the fuel pump will only run for a few seconds then shut off. With the gas cap removed you should hear the pump run for a few seconds after each time you spin the engine over with the starter. Does it do that? Will the engine start and run normal when you use the jumper method?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will check 4 pin connector tomorrow. When I jumped 12v to B terminal and the fuel pump ran and filled fuel filter the engine never fired. I will try putting gas in carb tomorrow and see if it fires.
Thanks
 

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I checked everything except red 9 pin connector (too much plastic to take off this evening). I had power to kill switch so do I still need to check 9 pin connector? If the next stop is the ECM what do I do with it, replace?
Where is it located? Can I bypass it with a relay or something to fuel pump?
Thanks again.
Did you also have output power from the Kill switch...?? Power on both screws on the Kill switch...??.

The output (black/light green) wire from the relay passes through the Red "9-pin" connector enroute to the Kill switch.

The output (black/white) wire from the Kill switch passes back through the Red "9-pin" connector enroute to the ECM.

I would suspect the Red "9-pin" connector is probably good.

Check my other post, next step is at the fuel pump.....!!

The ECM is located behind the right fairing inner panel (the one by your right knee when sitting on the bike).
 

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I will check 4 pin connector tomorrow. When I jumped 12v to B terminal and the fuel pump ran and filled fuel filter the engine never fired. I will try putting gas in carb tomorrow and see if it fires.
Thanks
Rather than that, just bypass the auto fuel shut-off valve. Fuel right from the filter to the carbs....!!

It may (or may not) start...! If the problem is at the ECM, it could only be affecting output to the fuel pump. If so, it will probably start.

If it starts there is no problem with the Red "9-pin" connector. There is power going to the ECM and ignition coils....!!

Otherwise it probably will not start.

If I have screwed this up, Redwing52 will let us know....!

Let us know results.............!!
 

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I get no power to B terminal when starter is engaged. Engine didn't fire with jumper.
No output power from the ECM.....!!

If the auto fuel shut-off valve is working good (reference post # 13), then you probably have an ECM issue.....!

Or could be a connector issue at the ECM (one large connector).....!
 

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My thoughts are that if you have no power at the fuel pump while cranking AND no run when you hot wire the pump, I bet you have no spark also. It can not be a fuel pump only issue or it would start with the hot wire installed. Why not take a minute and check for spark at the plug. Think there is a good chance you will have no spark. Good clue for the problem with no fuel pump and no spark. (if true) A unplugged pulse generator plug would give no spark and no fuel for example. Were you working in that area?
 

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There was an issue a while back where there was no output from the ECM to the fuel pump. When power jumped to the fuel pump it would start and run good.

It was a bad transistor in the ECM. There was no ignition issue.

I sent Capt the thread for that issue....just in case he might need it....!

There is a chance he might find spark...:grin3:


But I have been wrong before.....wouldn't be the first time....
 

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No output power from the ECM.....!!

If the auto fuel shut-off valve is working good (reference post # 13), then you probably have an ECM issue.....!

Or could be a connector issue at the ECM (one large connector).....!
Dave,
I do recall a member who had issues and it turned out the ECM plug looked good but wasn't quite pushed home. I guess it looked good but just wasn't quite contacting the ECM.
 

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Dave,
I do recall a member who had issues and it turned out the ECM plug looked good but wasn't quite pushed home. I guess it looked good but just wasn't quite contacting the ECM.
It was a problem where the rubber cover was seated good but the Yellow connector was not seated all the way. If I recall, in that case it would not even start (more that no output for fuel).

I need to disappear for a while................!!!!
 

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There was an issue a while back where there was no output from the ECM to the fuel pump. When power jumped to the fuel pump it would start and run good.

It was a bad transistor in the ECM. There was no ignition issue.

I sent Capt the thread for that issue....just in case he might need it....!

There is a chance he might find spark...:grin3:


But I have been wrong before.....wouldn't be the first time....
Just a guess on my part Dave. Based on it won't run even if he hot wires the pump. ..
 

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It has always been my experience (very looong experience) that when something is running and you work on it to make it run better and find it will no longer run at all that you always need to immediately go back over the work you JUST performed because you probably did something wrong or you pulled something apart. Your problem is always going to lie in the area that you were working. This work ethic has served me quite well in 40 plus years of wrenching and I have found many times where I either missed a connection or I pulled another, unrelated one, apart in the process of fixing the first problem. If you go off on a completely new route trying to find a new problem that was not there before you can end up with multiple problems and you will be chasing your tail for days or weeks.
I am far from an expert on these bikes so I don't have anything to offer here other than when working on my own I see plenty of opportunity to accidentally pull off a line or wire since they are all jammed in tight. Just something to thank about.
 
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