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It might be worth changing the cam belts if only because of there age and it not being run for such along time.
 

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Dont even start it till the cam belts are changed. If one breaks, well hear you cussing from here. They can be had < $20.00.

The main thing is to look at the exhaust manifolds, the ones I can see in the picture are clean, and thats rare. Usualy they are burnt to a crisp from fire out the exhaust manifolds.

Drain and change all the fluids - ALL of them. Flush out anything you can (crankcase, final drive, master cylinders) the rear end is bad for holding moisture and it goes into the rear wheel cylinder.

And plan to spend 3 days cleaning, strip it down to the frame, lots of rust hides in places you cant reach with it assembled. Seat, saddle bags etc should come off every year for wash/ wax.

Total carb rebuild too. All the rubber bits are old and worn out. Only takes a tiny bit of "float out of adjustment" to make it mad.

Kaw H2? Kawis answer to the Water Buffalo. Those things were EVIL!. Rode a Kaw 550 - 3 and it scared me.
 

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My opinion?

No extra lights and the plugs in good shape? Theoretically the life of the motor.



The plugs are half the issue, the other is extras running up the power consumption beyond the 360watt capacity. That is why the popular change out to the 500watt FI alternator.
 

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Ok Well here is my plan of attack. Lets here whatya think.

Change and flush all fluids. Antifreeze,Brake fluid,Fuel

New timing belts

Install new oilfilter fill with fresh oil and 1 quart MMO. Run her for about 200 miles then drain install new filter and fill with Mobile 1 Synth and watch for clutch slip.

Flush fuel system install new filter and lines. Fill with fresh fuel and add Seafoam.I'll try them out first. If they work fine GREAT. If not off they will come for some new parts and a good cleaning.

He said if he remembers right a front fork seal was starting to leak so watch it and change if needed.

Fix the stator plug by making it a solid connection and chucking the plug. What other plugs/fuses need fixed?

The carbs will probably need synced but unfortunitily the mercury ran out of my gages long ago and i tossedem. So this is the only thing i will need the dealer to do.

Oil all cables. They all move but are a little stiff. When im at it some new FOAM grips.

Flush the final drive. Lay bike over and fill to the brim with fresh gear lube 80/90wht?

Grease the rear swing arm if still possible on a newer wing.

A real good going over wash,wax check for loose bolts,nuts ,screws,chafed wires.

These are in no paticular order.

Read the motorcycle hand book from the dmv take wrighten test then go for driving test and pass them both. Call insurance company get some coverage and let the smiles begin.
 

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The carbs will probably need synced but unfortunitily the mercury ran out of my gages long ago and i tossedem. So this is the only thing i will need the dealer to do.

[[Ive not seen a dealer that can do that job right.]]

Oil all cables. They all move but are a little stiff. When im at it some new FOAM grips.

[[NO!!!!!!!!!!!! DO NOT oil the cables, if they are binding, replace them so we dont hear about you having a cable bind up in a turn and cause an accident. Seen it happen. Leave that oiling cables nonsense for the dirt bike crowd. The cables go bad when the plastic liners get stiff and they bind around the frame. There is no fixing them safely.]]

Flush the final drive. Lay bike over and fill to the brim with fresh gear lube 80/90wht?

[[Remove the right saddlebag, remove the chrome breather cap, drain the oil, then fill it with 10 oz. kerosene, run the wheel around a bit by hand, then drain it. Refill with 85W -90 if youre in Idaho.]]

Grease the rear swing arm if still possible on a newer wing.

[[Couldnt hurt, but I dont know if it can be done from the outside. Anyone?]]
 

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PatinIdaho wrote:
Thanks guys!! Someone said airplanes I have 6 if i remember right hare are two of them with me in the pic:D

Nice work on the planes. I flew RC for 16 years (before the wife, kid and mortgage). One of these days I will get back into it.
 

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Thanks for the comments on the planes. They are fun to fly and build from a kit:D.

Dave: You might be right about the cables but im going to have to go with my experance here. There is nothing wrong with the cables other then being a little dry. A few drops of 3in1 will free em up and keep them working fine for years to come;).

If i dont have a dealer do the carbs it just wont get done:(. I dont have a choice as i no longer have the tool. I could use 4 vacume gauges but trying to sync 4 bouncing needles would be a real trial in patiance i think? I WISH i still had my old one with 4 tubes filled with mercury. You could get them dead on balanced with it.

PS. You think a 550 tripple was scary. If you ever get the chance try a 750 tripple think it was a H2 Mach4 maybe just cant remember. With rejetted carbs,pipes. I could be going down the freeway at 80mph drop down 2 gears grab some throttle and up would come the frontend. Last i seen the bike was under a carport toren apart in little peaces. Probably the best place for it:?
 

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Just hope your experience can hit the kill switch when the throttle sticks before the front wheel hits something else! ITs your broken motorcycle and injury, not mine. Do it any way you want, just so you know "i told you so."
 

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PatinIdaho wrote:
Dave: You might be right about the cables but im going to have to go with my experance here. There is nothing wrong with the cables other then being a little dry. A few drops of 3in1 will free em up and keep them working fine for years to come;).
Enjoyed R/C a lot when I was a teen ager, the modern gear is sure better than the old single channel tube type stuff I had. No servos, just rubber driven escapements for bang-bang control. The nearest thing to proportional was Galloping Ghost systems with their vibrating control surfaces. If 50% of flights was under marginal control it was considered a great success.

I lube cables too. Can't get too excited about a sticky cable with push and pull throttles. I like to use a graphite oil, that way even after the oil has dried, the graphite still keeps things slick.

:waving:
 

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I dont think i could get along without rc planes anymore. There a blast and a GREAT bunch of guys to hang out with at the field also.

One of the guys i fly with has a 84 gl1200 and uses a small trailer from harbor freighthe made a box onto haul his planes around with. He has the 12 inch tire model but he says he thinks the 8 inch tire model would be better. Less bounce. Im thinking the 12 inch is better and to help it not bounce so much i could run the tires with less air. What do you guys think?

Also picking up my new wing today. Gonna be busy around here for the next week i think. But a labor of love is never work so i cant wait!!! The exitement this last week has been just about killing me.:clapper::clapper::clapper:

Pat
 

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Just a couple other things you may want to check. The starter solenoid/main fuse holder to the rear of the battery under the weather boot. They can fry real good some times.

Think about replacing all therubber brake, clutch fluid and fuel lines, after almost 20 yrs they may begetting a little soft.

You may want to pull the fuel sending unit out and see if the inside of the tank is rusted, could cause problems later down the road if the system starts sucking rust.

Good luck, and enjoy your new toy!!!

What,,,,,Disco is gone?????????:(:(:(:(
 

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Yes Im looking at all that and thinking i need a fuel filter before the fuel pump. Thanks

I'll Give a full report later tonight on what i find in a new thread as this one is getting kinda long
 

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PatinIdaho wrote:
One of the guys i fly with has a 84 gl1200 and uses a small trailer from harbor freighthe made a box onto haul his planes around with. He has the 12 inch tire model but he says he thinks the 8 inch tire model would be better. Less bounce. Im thinking the 12 inch is better and to help it not bounce so much i could run the tires with less air. What do you guys think?

Pat
Don't think smaller tires will help, the larger radius wheel will have a smoother ride, think of a 8" wheel and a 36" wheel going over a 4" curb. To reduce bounce it's going to take more weight to increase the inertia load of the trailer vs the spring strength of the suspension. Think of an empty 3/4 ton pick up empty and one carrying 3000lbs.
 

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Wow, this was an old post resurrected! :?
 

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Welcome aboard from IL :action:



Parman :12black:
 

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Welcome from Oklahoma :waving: Enjoy the Wing :cheesygrin:
 

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Of course...
 

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:?Anybody home?:stumped:
 
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