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i justdid a HID headlightconversion on my '95 gl1500i. i am having intermittent issues with the HID not staying on. i turn on the ignition & they light but when i start the bike the headlights cut out (always has by design to reduce power drain while running the starter) but when i release the starter & they come back on they only light for a split second & go out. also this is the low beam only kit with the slim ballast so if i switch to high bean (essensially turning off the HIDs) & back to low again they just light for a split second & go out. i have found that (so far, i've only tried this a couple time) if i ride 1-2 miles & stop & shut off the ignition, then turn it back on the lights will come on & stay on, they will also come back on if i switch them off by flipping to high beam & then back to low to turn them back on. if i just reset the ignition at my startup point they still don't stay on, it seams that i must ride a little before reseting.

i have tried swapping relays & 3 different relays all got the same result. i also know my battery is alittle on the weak side (if i let it sit for 3-4 days there isn't enough power to kick the bike over) but the HIDs are being problematic even when the bike was only sitting a few hours after running for a couple hours straight. i have only had the HIDs in a couple days & the temperature has been in the 25-45f range. so far its been about a 50/50 shot of weather they work right or fail.
 

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Just guessing, It might be a connection at the ballast, bad ballast, ignition switch contacts... Have the battery load tested.
 

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ebanjo wrote:
Just guessing, It might be a connection at the ballast, bad ballast, ignition switch contacts... Have the battery load tested.
2 ballast & 2 bulbs (1 each ballast) both doing the same thing separatly conected into the original headlight conectors. i have tried just jiggling the key in the ignition on position with no luck.

how low voltage sencitive are the HID ballast?
 

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From what I know about it the older analog ballasts were low voltage sensitive but the digital ones are not supposed to be. I have a set in my civic, the newest ones I have, and on the ballast it states 9 to 18 volts. I would try putting a charger on the battery until it is fully charged and then turn on the switch to see if they come on. Then start the engine and see if they stay on. Another thing to try is switch to high beam (off) before starting the engine them turn them on. I have the headlights in my 1800 wired so they do not come on until the engine is running and has oil pressure. It just seemed to me the switching on and off then on again with every start couldn't be good for the ballasts.
 

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I'm with you dave , my HIDS won't come on either if voltage is low. my bike may still start but lights won't come on till proper voltage is there.

I'm thinking charge battery till full then get it tested.

How old is the battery ?????

have you checked the alternator outputis correct ??
 

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I learning great stuff here my Question ..

Is there better kit than others and where to buy.....
 

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dj norm wrote:
I learning great stuff here my Question ..

Is there better kit than others and where to buy.....
Try here, this is what I use,they have worked great for me for 4 years in two different bikes.

http://www.vvme.com/
 

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Have you replaced your alt brushes?
Sounds like time for a new battery if a couple years old.
You should put a switch to shut off the headlight during starts, that way it the ballast only has to start once.

HIDs take a lot of power to start up. Our Wings take a lot of power to start up if any of the system is dirty, weak and worn. The alternator brushes get corrosion and stick, worn starter brushes cause buildup inside and bad contact, dirty grounds, spark plug wires get corrosion in them, spark plug caps crack, dirty electrical connections, etc, all play a factor in the whole picture.


Why did you go with only the low beams HIDs? They sell Bi-Xenon that hi-low electronic hoods to give the proper hi-low beams.

What are you doing for High beams as the 1500s have dual filament bulbs?

http://www.kryptonbulbs.com/Bi-Xenon-beam-hid-kit-menu
 

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switch back to stock.
if it works correctly problem most likely is in the HID kit.
Could be, bad ballast.
could be incorrect voltage into the ballast.
incorrect wiring.
Next
use a test light and rule out the wiring on yur ride, keep a square head on and start looking for what it isn't.
could be bad connections
pinched or broken wire.
loose contacts in the connectors. I have found this often.
Bad ground.
corrosion in the connectors and possibly the fuse holder for the light circ.
even a cheap volt meter will be worth its weight if used correctly.
hope this helps.
 

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.


I have HID's on my Mazda Tribute and the relays are sensitive to low input voltage hence no power going to the ballast.

What are you using for high beams ?

What company did you buy your HID's from ?


.
 

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f.y.i.

DO NOT TEST THE VOLTAGE OUT OF THE BALLAST TO THE BULBS ,

IT IS 24,000 VOLTS !!!!!!!

IT WILL BLOW YOUR TESTER!!!! BEEN THERE DONE THAT....
 

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My ballast shows a output of 85 volts.
 

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if you have the dual bulb xenon/halogen type (xenon for low beam, halogen for high beam) it is probably caused by the ballast design, probably needs time to cool down after the first startup. without starting the engine, turn the switch to the on position, the low beam hid will turn on. quickly switch to high beam and back to low beam. if the hid fails to light up again, you may have to get another set of ballast or install a switch to keep them off while starting.

on my bike i have 3 hid lights with regular size ballast with included igniter. they wont fail to start after starting the engine or switching them on and off rapidly.
 

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DOC1500 wrote:
f.y.i.

DO NOT TEST THE VOLTAGE OUT OF THE BALLAST TO THE BULBS ,

IT IS 24,000 VOLTS !!!!!!!

IT WILL BLOW YOUR TESTER!!!! BEEN THERE DONE THAT....
I got an old tester for measuring cathodes on CRT's. Goes to 40-50K volts.. Should handle it! An old color TV set can easily store up 28,000 volts. B&W sets were around 17,000 volts. Enough to wake you up for sure.
 

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your HID's should have been wired independent of the bikes headlight circuit thru use of a switched relay,only thing used from the original headlight circuit should have been one of the headlight connectors attached to the HID relay so that you could switch between hi/low circuits

part of the problem you are having with the battery is probably due to the way you have hid's wired,when you turn on the key the hid's basically try to drain your battery before you even start the bike,since you have two ballasts in the circuit the draw is about 18-20amps trying to light off the ballasts,,that's about 3+ times what the regular headlight uses
this is a good kit that i have reccomended to people before,
bi-xenon H4-3 5000K http://www.ebay.com/itm/250710064865?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
pm sent
 

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this was a "plug & play" kit. it says they only use 35w each so why would there be a problem with powering them from the existing headlight circuit that had 45w halagens & i had upgraded to 55w in the past, i should be pulling less power now than stock.

the kit is "Xentec advanced automotive lighting system" i got it from an ebay store & it was only $33 shipped. it was the slim ballast kit because that seamed to be what was recomended in the other threads about HID upgrades.

as for the high beam i had burned out the high filiments over a year ago so i've just been using the low beams & the low beam only kit was half the price & didn't require adding a new high/low switch which appeared to be required for the electronic switching between high & low. this is my beater/ commuter bike & as long as i can see what do i need a high beam for (i can be ticketed for using the high beam around other vehicles but nothing says i must use a high beam for rural riding) the low beam HID is still much brighter than my high beam 60w halagens ever were.
 

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I have installed 5 of those xentec kits and did have trouble with a few of the ballasts, both failed on my civic and 1 in my truck but they did send replacements free of charge. The ones that did fail only lasted 1/2 hour or so, it appears if they last longer than that they are good. The ones in my 1800 have been in there almost 3 years. Verify you are getting plenty of voltage to them and if so contact the seller for replacements.
There is no need to run different wiring or a relay, the stock system will handle the extra load for the few seconds it lasts. If it would not it would blow the fuse.
 

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As I seen on web some of the kits have wires to connect on to the battrie do you guys run a good gage (like 12 or 10 gage wire) directly from the batterie to the light to have a good amperage availability at the front. ????
 

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There is no need for that, some kits require it because of the way they are wired for some applications but HIDs only use a little more amperage for a few seconds then it tapers off to less than stock bulbs.
 
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