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:waving:Hi everybody,

Hey I picked-up this trick 4 gauge cluster for the ol' ghost and I need to replace thisnifty little number 'cause it's thermistor has been "clipped" -> WHY DO THEY DO-O THAT? :(. [Or does someone know of an instrument restorer?].

Such a gauge won't likely show-up any time soon on "E-Bay" I figure; so I thought I'd inquire within our community.

Please PM me if you can help.

Best Regards
 

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I've got 1 in the same condition. They clip it because they are too lazy to trace to the end of it and pull it out with the rest of it. Everything on mine works except for the temp gauge. The Honda clock keeps perfect time.
 

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Hey Micheal,

Yeah I knew
you had that set, I'd done a search on this before submitting it as a topic and had read the thread where you mention this.



Do you [or anyone reading this] know where Honda originally mounted the "bulb"? Seems like it would've had to been in the fairing proper, eh?



Oh the mysteries of life! :D
 

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There used to be a guy down in socal that repaired borden type gauges.I believe the epa was giving him a hard time. You might try the service department in Hemmings motor news or classic car parts.. JB
 

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I picked up one of those units also but it was still on the fairing. The heat sensor unit was screwed onto the fairing an inch up from the bottom edge center inside the fairing. When I say inside I mean in the cockpit area right in front of the fork weight. It is a nice little unit with the 4 gauges I'm not sure what to do with a altimeter and the glass on my clock is yellowed so I need to try to get that replaced. :action::action::action:
 

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Seems to me a bit of research and experimentation should result in a fix.

A thermistor is a resistor that varies in value depending on temperature. Buy a RadioShack potentiometer {volume control} and wire it into the thermistor leads and see what it reads out. Might have to add some resistance, or subtract some.

Compare the resistor fed temperature to actual, and find a thermistor to match that resistance at that temperature. Here is a temp chart for a thermistor rated at 10Kohm/25C


 

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kah92340 wrote:
I picked up one of those units also but it was still on the fairing. The heat sensor unit was screwed onto the fairing an inch up from the bottom edge center inside the fairing. When I say inside I mean in the cockpit area right in front of the fork weight. It is a nice little unit with the 4 gauges I'm not sure what to do with a altimeter and the glass on my clock is yellowed so I need to try to get that replaced. :action::action::action:
So Kim, if I understand you correctly, the temp. gauge's sensor is actually directly below the gauge set and accessible [thru deft handiwork] by the same means one might employ to remove the fairing headlight assembly (as an example).

Ya' know I'm beginning to doubt that calling the sensor unit a "thermistor" is correct. What's leftthat protrudes out the back of the gauge is a stub of copper; that would be a capillary tube wouldn't it?
 

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bikeknight52 wrote:
kah92340 wrote:
I picked up one of those units also but it was still on the fairing. The heat sensor unit was screwed onto the fairing an inch up from the bottom edge center inside the fairing. When I say inside I mean in the cockpit area right in front of the fork weight. It is a nice little unit with the 4 gauges I'm not sure what to do with a altimeter and the glass on my clock is yellowed so I need to try to get that replaced. :action::action::action:
So Kim, if I understand you correctly, the temp. gauge's sensor is actually directly below the gauge set and accessible [thru deft handiwork] by the same means one might employ to remove the fairing headlight assembly (as an example).

Ya' know I'm beginning to doubt that calling the sensor unit a "thermistor" is correct. What's leftthat protrudes out the back of the gauge is a stub of copper; that would be a capillary tube wouldn't it?
Yes If you look at your headlight adjusting knob and go straight down about 8 inches it screwed in there. Looks like they used the hole where the inner and outer fairing are joined together.
I will try and get a photo of the sensor and post it later this afternoon.
 

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RIGHT ON! Great Pic Kim! From all appearances in the photo I'd say you're enjoying another fine California Day -> Sunny as hell and a toasty, oh-h-h say 83[suP]o [/suP]F, eh? Wish mine was working that well!

All bet I'm right that that's a capillary [or Borden] tube, that would 'splain the needle on mine sittin' on the120[suP]o[/suP]+ end of the dial. I don't think tryin' to hook-up a thermistor to it would do me any good.

Well, maybe I'll get lucky and someone will have one they can part with.

Thanks for the input.
 

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In theory, you can repair a bouden tube. If you can find a gauge that has a tube with the same diameter. You can placed the bulb in ice water. This should draw all of the gas into the bulb. Carefully cut the tubing and sweat fit the two tubes, the old gauge and the new bulb, with the correct coupler. You may have to get the bulb colder if the gauge goes colder than freezing. I cant remember the range on the thermometer. Good luck. Jay
 

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Big Port Jimmy 6 wrote:
In theory, you can repair a bouden tube. If you can find a gauge that has a tube with the same diameter. You can placed the bulb in ice water. This should draw all of the gas into the bulb. Carefully cut the tubing and sweat fit the two tubes, the old gauge and the new bulb, with the correct coupler. You may have to get the bulb colder if the gauge goes colder than freezing. I cant remember the range on the thermometer. Good luck. Jay
:(NA-A-A-A--AA-A-A---H, B/P Jimmy this is a problem on a whole different level. The dumb s.o.b. that scavenged the instrument cluster discarded the old sensing tube and bulb!

Igot the gauge, I don't need another one unless it's an unmolested working unit [which means the capillary tube/bourden bulb is attached]. And from discussions I've had with those that restore these things, there's a bit more to it than what you've alluded to. I guess there's a couple 'o three different gasses that might be employed + a "charge" pressure [or atmosphere vacuum]that needs to be identified so that the instrument performs within the the scale on the gauge.

This gauge can be restored, but at a cost that I'd prefer not to incur. The least expensive approach would be getting lucky enough to find someone who has the same cluster and has removed it in lieu of doing something else on their bike or has chosen to remove this particular instrument in lieu of something else they prefer.

By the way, if anybody reading this knows how I might inquire with American Honda about the original spec. data on this gauge I'd appreciate it.
 

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lol I'd like if someone can explain to me how to adjust the gauge reading. Mine runs continually 10 degrees above true:)
 
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