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making the new frame mounts would be a good thing sence you said it steered hard. dropping the rear down some would rake out the front and make it steer easier instead of investing in the high dollar easy steer. that's what i did. also don't forget to lean opposite of the turn not like a bike at all.
 

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The last trike I had was a Honda ATC 90 . long ago ,almost in a faraway galaxy .:cheeky1: I seriously dont know how a bike trike rides or steers . I am sure as Pontiac used to say WIDER is better . For sure it gives a better view to the cagers who will undoubtedly claim they cant/didnt see you .



For me to make the change is a huge amount of work especially at this point . I have no idea what your finish plans are . I can see a nice flatbed area , easily making a small camper unit . but thats just in my head , with lots of other goop :D
 

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i didn't know you where going to make a camper out of it.:( i'll be quite now.:shock:
 

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Discussion Starter #44
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Well, Now I'm in it.
Going to go ahead & shorten the sub frame 3".
Almost got the unit out.
Pictures to follow.

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Discussion Starter #46
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I done it now!
Cut the rear sub frame & welded back together.
Plan on dropping it about 1/4" to 1/2" when I reattach to bike.

Uncut


Cut & Welded


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That is quite a tinker toy setup you are playing with :waving:

I love it when folks can just get down, take a few measurements, cut here, add there, and fine tune the results and come up with a good project.

Again, I am jealous of your shop and equipment. I've not had that luxury since I used to work for the oil field companies.
 

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I'm almost 60 now & been building my tools since I was 20.
Had a mech./ Body Shop in the late '70.
Loss most of the shop tools, but even in semi-retired I still buy tools.
The work shop is a 2 car garage with another 1 car garage & carport I just built on the side of it.
I've also got a great wife that only screens at me for 5 mins. when I spend money, but understand I need tools because she can see what I do. She say I like to make holes!
As you can see, I enjoy doing the weird thing others don't.
Besides, I can't afford to buy the Kit for a Trike.
Build is more FUN & you enjoy it more in the long run.

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GOT A QUESTION, DO YOU FEEL THE 1500cc OR 91.5 cu. in. ENGINE WILL BE ENOUGH TO HANDLE ALL THAT EXTRA WEIGHT ALONG WITH THE POSSIBLE WEIGHT OF A PASSENGER.THE 4.1 RATIO WILL WRAPIT UP PRETTY TIGHT, OD WILL CUT THE POWER DOWN APPRECIABLY. I'VE SEEN EVERYTHING FROMVOLKSWAGEN TO 454CHEVY'S IN TRIKES BUT WAS HONESTLY WONDERING ABOUT THE 1500cc.Binthar..
 

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Discussion Starter #51
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After taking 3" out of the rear sub frame, I finished it up with welding in braces across all of the welds & shorten the stab. bar.
Centered & remounted the bike cross bar lowering it 9/16" on both sides.
It's now down to 62" outer tires. Could lose another 2" with diff. tires.
Drive shaft is back in.
Thinking about shorten the A-arms.

As you can see in the 1st picture could only take out 3" from sub due to the diff mounting. 6' would have been really good & also lined up the drive shaft .






Also the fairing came in & went ahead & mounted to bike
Need the HONDA for the front fender

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Discussion Starter #52
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Does anybody have a GL1500 batt. (right) side cover I could repair & maybe make a mode of it. Even a repairable cover w/ or w/o the tangs.
They are outrageous priced on eBay.
Send me PM as to what you have.

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If you shorten the A arms, would that not made the ride harder?

IMO I would leave them as they are because the geometry has already had extensive testing by the OEM car designer.
 

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it's not on a car any longer. oem car designers never figured on this aplication. looks better but i think it needs to be narrower. but you can't go much off the aarms or you'll hit your shock towers with the tires. don't know if that little bit would be worth the extra effort. hard to tell from the pics but you could lose maybe 2" on each side that's another 4 total? you be down to what most kit trike are or real glose anyway. this pic is how the big boys do it. i'm going with the mustang rear again it just much easier to make work.
 

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Binthar wrote:
GOT A QUESTION, DO YOU FEEL THE 1500cc OR 91.5 cu. in. ENGINE WILL BE ENOUGH TO HANDLE ALL THAT EXTRA WEIGHT ALONG WITH THE POSSIBLE WEIGHT OF A PASSENGER.THE 4.1 RATIO WILL WRAPIT UP PRETTY TIGHT, OD WILL CUT THE POWER DOWN APPRECIABLY. I'VE SEEN EVERYTHING FROMVOLKSWAGEN TO 454CHEVY'S IN TRIKES BUT WAS HONESTLY WONDERING ABOUT THE 1500cc.Binthar..
The GL1500 has good power & torque th move a 3 wheeler. Many people have been building them for years.
The IRS is a lot harder & heavier to setup, but should give you a smoother ride.
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skoto1 wrote:
it's not on a car any longer. oem car designers never figured on this application. looks better but i think it needs to be narrower. but you can't go much off the aarms or you'll hit your shock towers with the tires. don't know if that little bit would be worth the extra effort. hard to tell from the pics but you could lose maybe 2" on each side that's another 4 total? you be down to what most kit trike are or real glose anyway. this pic is how the big boys do it. i'm going with the mustang rear again it just much easier to make work.
The mustang rear is easier to build & a good setup with less weight.
Nobody ever said that I take the easy way.
I wanted to do something different,
I need to recheck my shock mounts upper & lower for clearance before I do anything.
They will be almost straight up which will make them harder on bumps.
Will test drive this setup maybe today.
By cutting the A-arms, will also be able to remove the caster built into the lower arm.
On a 3 wheeler you would want the wheels to go straight up & down, no caster like a car. You also want 90 degess camber.
The tires on the 8" rimes are also wide, could lose maybe 2" there.
It's been hard to find nice rims with 4 - 100mm bolt patten, wanted 7"., another 2" lost.

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you had me thinking to try this set up on the 1200. it looks really cool and will probably ride better then the mustang. mine rode really smooth though it fooled me. actually i think the irs setup is a better way to go. it's self contained you can do it all without sending anything out. i like it a lot.now if i could afford a vette rear i might give this a shot on my next one which will be a 1500. until then keep up the good work.
 

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and i know it's more work but you can always relocate your shock mounts to the inside of the upper frame rail or you can angle them forward to keep the ride soft. just a thought. i had to repost don't like the #13.:shock: after looking at the pics again i see you can't reloate to the inside of the frame rail. but you could shorten the upper shock mount and that should give you the needed clearance?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
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Finished shorting the brake line & installed.
Bend the 2 lower bars & remounted them.
Had to change the Alt. due to Batt. cable bolt broken off.
Charged up the Batt.
Started it up, Backed up, & test drove the 2 mile around the block again.
Still a little hard to get around curves at speed, but will learn.
Has a slight pull to the right, may be due to no air in the shocks or one shock low on oil that leaked out when it was upside down.
I've been sitting on the gas tank for these rides & it smooth as silk.
It's great sitting lower w/o the seat.

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i'm sure you know but tire pressure will affect the pull also. mine steered very hard until i put about 45 lbs in the front tire and learned how to lean wrong.:shock: and i'm thinking it being wider may effect the way it steers. but there is only so much you can remove. i'm sure once you get use to it it will be fine for you. you have to learn how to ride a trike.:action:
 
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