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I have an 83 GL1100 Aspy. The horn quit working. I have checked the fuse with a light tester and it checks fine. Power on both sides of the fuse. I also checked the power to the horn when the button is pushed. I am presumeing that the problem is with the horn button itself. I am going to take it apart to see if the contact points need cleaned. But was wondering if there is any surprises when I take this apart and what to look for . Any help would be great.



Randy
 

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You might want to check the relay, I don't know where it is on your bike. Do you hear a click when you push the horn button somewhere?
 

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1100s don't have a horn relay Bob.

Randy, you didn't say if you found power when you checked it at the horn wires. When you check the fuses on these things don't just check directly on the fuse, check at the clip that holds the fuse. They can corrode between the fuse and the clip and show power on the fuse but not on the clip.
 

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I did not know that, I thought that was a given.
 

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One wire at the horn show power even when the button is not pushed. Yes I checked the power at the fuse on the holder not just the fuse. I gotten the switch taken apart and cleaned it, That does not seem to be the problem. I'm still scratching my head. my climer manual does not cover much on the horn.



Randy
 

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There is supposed to be power at the horns all the time when the key is on. The button grounds it.
 

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Okay, I have taken both horns off and hooked them direct to a battery and niether one of them apparently work. Positive to one side and negitive to the other they should go HONK right? They don't. But when I hook up my test light to the horn wires when I push the horn button the test light will not light up either. So I am still somewhat puzzled.
 

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sounds like your horns are dead. As far as no power now it could be the button you took apart if you had power before you took it apart. I fixed one last week and had to add a little solder to the contact with the 3 wires. As simple as the horn switch looks it still puzzled me as the little divet inside the yellow button has to go with the small end down and the small end of the spring towards the buttonand thecopper spring is part of the ground circuit . Maybe you got the switch right but its just a thought. JB
 

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When you connect the test light to the horn wires are you connecting to both of them? 1 wire should be hot all time, the other is grounded when you push the button.
You can try adjusting the horns, connect them to a battery and adjust the screw on the back in and out to try to make them honk.
 

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Save some money - use your finger instead!?!?

:)
 

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Hidepounder wrote:
Okay, I have taken both horns off and hooked them direct to a battery and niether one of them apparently work. Positive to one side and negitive to the other they should go HONK right? They don't. But when I hook up my test light to the horn wires when I push the horn button the test light will not light up either. So I am still somewhat puzzled.
When I bought my bike, both horns were dead, so yeah it can happen. Just replaced the horns, and all is good now.

Hard to believe that both horns could go out. Not sure if one went before the other, since they were dead when I got it.
 

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Horns are adjustable.... often the horn itself gets corroded, and is easily fixed.



Unbolt one horn, leave it plugged in. There is a phillips screw on the back secured by a nut that locks pressure against the screw. remove the screw without moving the locking nut very much. (This will be used to sync the horn to the proper tune) check screw tip for corrosion. sand, buff, what ever to remove the corrosion. Reinstall screw ... DO NOT TIGHTEN IT UP YET... Repeat for each side.Best method is to tune onehorn at a time. Unplug the one thatis blowing to allow for better tune of the malfuntioning horn.



Wether or not there was corrosion .... with someone pressing the horn button turn the screw either/both directions until horn blows. Find tune that sounds good to you and lock in the locking nut. Recheck the tune.. It is very sensitive to the positon of the screw. May need to re-adjust a couple times until you get the nack.





Can be done connected directly to a battery also. If you don't have a helper. I am assuming that you have the stock horns....
 
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