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How can I be sure GL1100 mileage is real?

1631 Views 24 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  rpeters549
Looking at a GL1100 1982 with 26K miles. Gonna look in person this afternoon, but the guy says runs well but needs brakes (no biggie). Seat needs repair (no biggie) and a general 'refresher' of the 30 years of wear that she has (no biggie). But 26K miles seems either odd (awesome) or fake. How can I be sure the odometer is OEM and not replaced? Could also be simply disconnected/not working....

Thanks in advance.

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there is no real good way to tell without some disassembly or a test drive.
thx for reply. pretty much figured. test ride and complete look-over it is...
it would not surprize me any,I inherited a 75 gl1000 from my father with only 32000 on it,alot of these old bikes were not ridden much
What difference does it make? If it looks good, and runs good is all that really matters at this point. It is 31 years old after all.

Eric, I picked up an '82 1100 in 2010 with 18,400 miles on it but it hadn't been started for 7-8 years. The guy just put it in the corner of his garage and that was it. That bike was filthy, a leak here and there, plus the typical brakes seized up. I worked on it for several weeks, doing lots of maintenance and cleaning and it was well worth the effort. Even after driving it for two years it only had about 32K on it when I sold it last year. Nice bike and if it looks good, and you don't mind doing a few things to it go for it. So many of these bikes don't get ridden much and others are much higher mileage. Remember it is 31 years old so it will need some regular care and feeding but with the help from this forum you could have a winner. Send pictures!
There should be no noticeable wear on the brake rotors at 26K miles.
Look closely at the rear. If there is a groove, it's more likely 126K miles.
Thanks for input fellas. Took a look at this old warrior in person today and it did not smoke a bit upon startup. The #2 exhaust header right at the engine was not as hot as the other 3 cylinders after running a few minutes, but she sounded good and ran fairly strong. Needs brakes, but seems like a strong runner at this point. I imagine the #2 cyl is a carb issue - no?

Was a little pressed for time so didn't get to do too big of a detailed inspection. Going to look a bit harder tomorrow. maybe take a comp tester w/me. Good call Dennis, I'll check the rear rotor for nice grooves. The owner says he's just let it sit for 2 yrs. Unsure of owners prior to that...
Take a volt meter with you and test the charging system at the battery. It should read over 13 volts at about 2500 rpm. If is not charging you will need a stator. That would be a deal breaker for me. Some of bikes have a after market meter. If it does just make sure it is charging.
Open the false tank, remove the tray and look at the level of antifreeze in the tank located to the right hand side. If it is empty it would could have a water pump or head gasket problem
Check under the front of the engine for any antifreeze or oil drips
Open the gas tank and with a flashlight look for any signs of rust.
Sitting 2 years it probably with need a carb rebuilt and syn. Not a deal breaker.
Timing belts probably should be replaced if the owner does not know when or if it has been done.
Thx cheeprider. all good points to look at.. most concerned about the stator, dude had to jump the bike off his truck to start it, so battery is at very least dead. stator is a tough one if going bad - pulling engine is no fun i hear.
If he is not riding the bike regularly it would surprise me to have a flat or faulty battery. You can still test it with the jump start from the truck as long as the truck is not running when you are testing voltage from the charging circuit of the bike.
ok good to know. so, start bike, remove jumper cables, test stator as prescribed (in the proper method)? in that order?
In the state of Florida anytime a vehicle is bought or sold the mileage is to be listed on the title as it passes hands. Now whether the seller is truthful about what he puts on the title is another story. I believe Carfax can find you this info for a fee. I have no idea what the mileage on my 1100 is, different motor, different speedo, etc. As others have said if it runs great why worry. Still the check of the stator is a must as replacing this part requires motor removal. Replacing timing belts is also a must do as telling their age is impossible by visual inspection. If seller will let you check compression, do so. All should be close to same number, around 170 PSI if I remember right, and don't forget to hold throttle open with kill switch on off while motor is spun. Seals harden with age and start to leak, just something I deal with. Strong engine is most important. One thing I look at too is the condition of the oil drain plug, the rougher it looks I infer someone has been changing oil frequently. That my spiel.
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well gents, i picked it up for $1050. stator was charging 14+v under load. comp tester didn't fit, didnt' have any adapters in my autozone rental unit. so I am taking a chance. I figured at the very least I can get my money back as it's a runner with a clean title and clean plastics. just needs some cleanup and some prev maintenance. it does have the low speed wobble, but it's old ya know. I'm embarking on a long journey that I'm def looking forward to! This place is a great wealth of info for us new into the GW world.

oh, and the rotors are surprisingly groove free. they appear to be the OEM rotors, as everything on this thing is old. light surface rust abounds. here she is...

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thats a good starter kit . A little TLC and you have a fine riding bike . It looks like the top line Aspencade . Did you get the side covers with it ? If not Ebay will become your side hobby .
For good info and carb parts check this link :Randakk's
side covers are there, just had them off for inspections. I've been all over Randakk's site, such a great wealth of info, as is this place. ANyhow, let the fun begin!
That's a BEAUTY! Congratulations, and nice work on the prepurchase inspection. :)

I have to say, whoever's tip it was about checking the rotor wear - very smart - hadn't thought of that. I had the same question as the OP kicking around in the back of my head.
Does he have any service/repair records? Check those docs to see if service date and stated millage sync up with the ODM. Probably not practical to remove the timing belt covers during your inspection, but the date and millage of new belts is often written inside the cover. Look over the tires for a manufactuer date (see link below).
At this point how many miles the bike has is not important because age and sitting is just as bad if not worse than miles. If it contains or use to contain liquid it needs attention. The timing belts MUST BE CHANGED. Which is good because the radiator needs to be flushed so when you have it off change the belts. Forks, shocks, brakes all need attention. Some one loved it enough to add bling so that is good.
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