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As i remember the 1000 the fan is switched on the power line so you need to put a +ve (fused and switched) lead into the fan power supply.
No, it is switched on the ground side.
 

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On the 1200s, the fan is operated by a coolant sensor that opens or shuts the negative or ground side connection, a simple switch added parallel is perfect. One lead from switch to ground wire at sensor, the other side of switch grounded. Switch must be able to carry the current load. Not sure on a 1000 but likely same.
 

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Exactly and the 1000 is the same.
 

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Why I would control with a relay...! Might be too much load for a simple switch.

I rode a GL1000 for 14 years. Didn't learn much about them....!!.
I wired on in on my '85 on the neg side, just a switch, 15 amp rating, and wired in a small light with one leg hot, the ground to the switch. The light came on any time the fan did as if one didn't hear the fan, in 20+ years I maybe used the switch two times but it was rare, not really needed, I just did it in case I ever had the fan not come on? The fan came on automatically when the engine got hot, then temp dropped pretty quick.
 

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One time several years back I rode the 1100 down to Colorado Springs, it was just fine going down the Interstate, but after the exit into town by the third stoplight it was overheated. Pulled into a convenience store, and killed the engine. With ignition on checked fuses (ok), then started wiggling connector on fan switch. Fan came on. Corroded connector..... Restarted engine and was on my merry way....
 

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I don't know what the fan current is but, if you use only a switch be sure it is rated for DC or AC/DC amps.
The fan pulls about 3.5 amps.
 

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On my 85 Aspy I put a On-Off toggle switch across the wires connecting to the fan switch. With the switch on the fan ran, with off the fan resorted to the fan switch. Simple!
 

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I went over to Kool's place today, and the bike is definitely in need of an electrician.

Now, when the key is turned on, a couple of dash lights work, and NOTHING else.

To my thinking, all else should be secondary to getting that switch wired correctly. There is a plug on the new harness and the switch itself is new. However, both are aftermarket... But I think they are compatible and the problem lies further down the harness.

So, can someone start by giving advice on how to wire in the basics? Like what NEEDS to be plugged in the get the ignition to fire, and then we can move to the next challenge. Explain it to me like I'm stupid!
 

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It was fine of you Dennis to step forward when all others took a step back. :) About the only advice I could give is with key ON, fuse panel should be juiced up.
 

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I didn't look at the plaque but he said it is a '77, I think. It has the green gauges that I thought were only on the '76 models. He has a few copies of different schematics, but with my color vision, they're not very useful.
 
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