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Ok so another question on my recently acquired 76 gl 1000. The bike has been sitting around and the rear wheel won’t turn. Now I'm not sure exactly why that is yet, but if it is because of the engine it’s probably rust in the cylinders or maybe some bearings need replacing, either way I'm ok with it cause I'm up for the repair.



My question is: I had to get the bike up to my truck then back down from my truck and then into my garage, I didn't roll it on a jack or nothing, just me and a couple buddies just pushed as hard as we could and got it in there. A lot of time the rear wheel just skid but sometimes it did turn.

Ok, so now for the question, how much damage could I have made by forcing that wheel to turn, it was not that much lets say a max of 10 turns from me. I don’t know what the last owner was doing with it.

But yes, if it is because of rust what damage could I have made and what’s the best way to check for that kind of damage once I have the engine somewhat disassembled? Thanks
 

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Sounds to me like the brake caliper is seized and nothing to do with the engine ..
 

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I think the axe man hit it right. Take a hunk of wood (2x2) works good or a rubber mallet and give the rear caliper 4 or 5 good health whacks (technical term:cool:) and see if it rolls better.
 

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If it is the rear calliper, sometimes a good few presses on the brake peddle will also serve to free up the pistons some.



If the bike is in nutural, the rear wheel should still roll even if the engine is siezed, am I right guys? So if it still doesn't roll it would be the rear calliper?
 

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Silverfox wrote:
If the bike is in nutural, the rear wheel should still roll even if the engine is siezed, am I right guys? So if it still doesn't roll it would be the rear calliper?


thats the way i would call it too . :action:
 

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Xuno_gil wrote:
Ok so another question on my recently acquired 76 gl 1000. The bike has been sitting around and the rear wheel won’t turn. Now I'm not sure exactly why that is yet, but if it is because of the engine it’s probably rust in the cylinders or maybe some bearings need replacing, either way I'm ok with it cause I'm up for the repair.



My question is: I had to get the bike up to my truck then back down from my truck and then into my garage, I didn't roll it on a jack or nothing, just me and a couple buddies just pushed as hard as we could and got it in there. A lot of time the rear wheel just skid but sometimes it did turn.

Ok, so now for the question, how much damage could I have made by forcing that wheel to turn, it was not that much lets say a max of 10 turns from me. I don’t know what the last owner was doing with it.

But yes, if it is because of rust what damage could I have made and what’s the best way to check for that kind of damage once I have the engine somewhat disassembled? Thanks
You didn't say if you tried putting the tranny in neutral, or even if you could do that. But, as others have said, that would be a good way to determin the cause of the binding wheel--engine, brake, U-joint, or whatever. But to you question---It is highly unlikely that you did any additional damage to the engine, IF, you in fact were turning it over with the rear wheel. That is actually a positive sign, IMO.
 

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hmm ok well thats a good thing then, The rear brake caliber is already off, I remember it was a little hard to pry off, but it didn't seam like it was enough to prevent the wheel from turning at all. But maybe. I did put the tranny on neutral and all that. One thing that seamed weird and might go along with what you all are thinking is that the rear break pedal was stuck. but then there was barely any fluid in the thing neither so yea, but thanks for the info guys, the more I think about it now the more i think it was a stuck caliper too. thanks
 

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I got a 76 and the advice you have gotten is correct, Its the rear brake caliper.

My 76 is notorious for sticking calipers whenever it sits for long periods.

And thats often because we tour alot on our 1500.



I remedied this prob by putting in stainless steel pistons in my calipers.

I forget where exactly i got them but it was from the U.S.A from a specialty wing place.

They were a tad more then honda prices but it stops the pitting and corrosion

happening.

Do a web search for them and i am sure you will find them.



I am problem free for 4 years now, but remember that you should flush brake fluid often , I do both my bikes every 2 yrs
 

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Another thing i want to add is, rebuild your rear master cylinder,If your doing the caliper you should do the master as well then both start off like new again
 

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I rescued my 76 from sitting in a farm field uncovered for 15 yrs.

It took me 4 yrs to rebuild it piece by piece from the bare frame up.

All my calipers and masters were full of water, (yes water) not a drop of brake fluid to be found and they were seized solid.

My picture shows my 76 as it is now in its new Black color.

Good luck.
 

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You folks are scaring me, I just got my 77 in December and it had not been registered since 1979 and it only has 7,209 miles. I was suprised the brakes were not that bad took a little to get them out of the bores but they cleaned up OK. The wheels turn OK but kind of hard getting it into gear.
 

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I will be rebuilding my 83 Aspy rear calipers and master cylinder very soon. Are there kits or do I need to buy parts individually?
 
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