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I had spongy brakes and a leaky master. I bought a new master cylinder figuring that would solve my problems. Brakes worked but were still spongy. I just got a set of braided brake lines and installed them yesterday. I cannot get the brakes to respond. It feels like there is no pressure at all. I am sure I just have air in the lines. I hate to pay to have it done, but brake bleeding is my Achilles heel. I think I am just not patient enough. I was just wondering if anybody has had them done at the dealers and what they paid. There is a mechanic guy in the neighborhood that is coming over later today. He is currently out of work and I want to make it worth his while and give him a few bucks. I just want to know what would be fair.

Thanks.
 

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Each line typically takes about 15 max to flush and bleed, not including time spent removing tupperware (if any).

So then, two brake lines and a clutch(?) should take about 1 hour.
 

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I can't tell you what to pay him, but as a guide, mechanics where I live charge upwards of $75/hour. Whatever they get in the Charlotte area would be a good place to start. Then add something, if you're trying to help the guy out, or pay less -- and add more beer -- if you're trying to get it as cheaply as possible. Or just ask him.

Just my $.02.
 

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before you give up tie back the lever..half way.. let it sit over night 24 hours hit the lines and master when ever you think about it it during the day..It let the air escape..
Another way to do it is the fill the system from the bleeder valve on the caliper forcing the air up ahead of the fill. Master lid off or at least loose.1/4" tube and a big syringe to push the fluid in.
 

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If the guy is a close friend or close neighbor, he won't expect anything. However, being out of work, he may "expect" payment, but will probably tell you a low amount.
Think of your expertise, and switch roles with the fellow and then give him what you would expect.
 

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Have you ever tried "Speed Bleeders". I never hear of them until I joined this forum. I put a set on my 1500 & I have to tell you, It doesn't get any easier then that. It's a one person system and it's almost fool proof.
 

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you may have air in the banjo connection...
 

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tykub wrote:
Did you buy the the stainless steel, Galaxyhunter?

Carl
No, I just bought the regular ones.
 

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I bought a set of the regular ones also and they work perfect. The stainless ones would be pretty but they are kind of pricey.On my 1500 you can't see them anyway.
 

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galaxyhunter wrote:
Have you ever tried "Speed Bleeders".  I never hear of them until I joined this forum. I put a set on my 1500 & I have to tell you,  It doesn't get any easier then that.  It's a one person system and it's almost fool proof.

Only way to go. I like doing as much maintenance as possible for the basic reasons of: quality to my satisfaction, learning all about the project (gl1800) and documenting all the history. Sure, saving money and time might be in there but those are not primary to the project.

Speed Bleeders are on all vehicles brakes and MC clutch. This almost forces me to do the bleed outs every winter on the bike. Down here with all the humidity, it gets in there.

You will need a good manual for the gl1800 with ABS or linked systems as there is a procedure to follow.

Ned
 

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do you have a vacuum pump?. if you dont then dont pay someone and get a pump, it will make the work way easy
 

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you can also use a old windex or spray bottle nozzle as a vacuum pump
 

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Jon, I have a mity vac if you want to try that.

Also, someone here had mentioned tying the front brake handle back over night, and putting something heavy on the brake pedal (Hang from it) and let it set over night. In the morning, just break the bleeders a little and walla..... Done.

I did this the other day, except I didn't bleed them, by morning they were almost rock hard. Works good.
 

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Actually, I have read about leaving them overnight with the bungee. My issue was that there was absolutely no resistance to the brake lever travel. The guy came over and we did all the normal stuff. Then he took the bolt out that holds the brake lever on and used a socket extension (anything blunt) and pushed on the small piston in the master cylinder. You get just a little more travel than with the lever. After a couple of minutes we got some resistance and slight drag on the brakes. Put a bungee on the brake lever and a few hours later it was better. This morning, even better and I am expecting them to be all set when I get home from work. It seems that patience is the key with these things. Thanks for all the advice.
 

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I paid $30 last summer.
 

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I'd give him at least $50-75. it's worth it just to save you thefrustration of trying to get it to a dealer for them to do it. Dealer normally starts out at about $75-90 and hour depending where you go not including thefrustration of getting it there. If you don't have a trailer or roadside assistance it's going to cost you a towing bill to get it to the dealer as well. I'm sure you are already frustrated enough not being able to get the bike back on the road.
 

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Here is the deal. He tried for about an hour and when he left, he recommended that I get a pump. He seemed kinda bummed that it did not work. I asked what he wanted for his time and he really did not want to take anything. I gave him $20 for his time. Now that the brakes are stiffening up over time, I will swing by and give him some more $.

Thanks for the offer of the pump, John. We gotta swing up there for a cup of coffee at the shop.
 

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Bro you used an hour of his time, with no product. In my part of the country no product equals no pay. no matter how much time is spent. You paid him twenty and that is plenty for no product. The bungie trick is the happening thing and you did that not your helper. Exact samo problemo here, the over night squeeze is the deal. Shiny side up!
 

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I bought this when it was $35. Still a bargain! Effortless.
 
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