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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys...guy my 1100 home today and got stuck straight in. engine turns nicely, Oil was clean after 15 years???clear as...drained anyway. Belts all look good for now but will be replacing them.
anyways Ive stripped it pretty much right back to where I needed to get the tank out. Pull the fuel gauge sender unit out...full of crap...wouldnt even move..anyways Ive cleaned that up and soaked it in white vinegar...bought up a treat...cant say the same thing for whats in the tank sadly...holy snappin duck crap.....anyways..I pose the question to you lads...how do I clean it out..the reserve line and filter is blocked...cant even get compressed air thru it...
So whats your suggestions and recommendations..pics attached...
 

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Electrolysis will remove the rust. If the tank is more rust than tank, you will probably have to coat it once the rust is gone to fill in all the pin holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Electrolysis will remove the rust. If the tank is more rust than tank, you will probably have to coat it once the rust is gone to fill in all the pin holes.
Nah tank is pretty good...just dried up fuel and the additives left behind I think..tank seem pretty solid...wont know til I give it a good going over I guess. Its not rust thats falling out...just crap
 

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you can use some diesel and limestone gravel,just put it in the tank and give it a good shaking for some time.
 

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That's really not bad at all, I have seen and cleaned much much worse with electrolysis.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Looked like rust in the photos. Acetone should cut all the crud.
pics are probably a little misleading...the stuff coming out was like someone had thrown a handful of dirt in the tank but not so much rust. The sender unit had a thick film over it which I was able to scratch/scrape off
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's really not bad at all, I have seen and cleaned much much worse with electrolysis.
well thats reassuring at least :) Im gonna give the tank a pressure lean out tomorrow then throw some hydrochloric acid mix in the tank..slosh it round a bit.
ive read that the screens in the tank arent really neccesary? Thoughts...if thats the case im gonna pry them of tomorrow. just have to make sure my fuel filters are up to scratch
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I found out tonite the the owner before the bloke I got it ofrf drained the fuel and coolant before it sat for 15 years...:|
 

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well thats reassuring at least :) Im gonna give the tank a pressure lean out tomorrow then throw some hydrochloric acid mix in the tank..slosh it round a bit.
ive read that the screens in the tank arent really neccesary? Thoughts...if thats the case im gonna pry them of tomorrow. just have to make sure my fuel filters are up to scratch
The screens keep the larger stuff that might clog the lines or the petcock out, the filter is for the smaller particles.
 

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After my trials bike sat for 15 years I had the same goo in tank. I remove tank and removed petcock. plugged hole. Then I mixed acetone, MEK and paint thinner. Filled tank about 1/2 full, added about 1500 BBs. I then shoved a bunch of foam rubber, the tank and more foam rubber in an electric concrete mixer. Wired a piece of hardware cloth over the opening of mixer, and turned it on for a couple hours.

I drained out the red crude and flushed it with more of the mixture and it came out nice and shiny inside. The sludge cocktail that was left I just dumped it on some oil dry and it evaporated, leaving a red pile of oil dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The screens keep the larger stuff that might clog the lines or the petcock out, the filter is for the smaller particles.
well..technically, once the tank is clean...there shouldnt be any "larger" particles aye??:praying:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
After my trials bike sat for 15 years I had the same goo in tank. I remove tank and removed petcock. plugged hole. Then I mixed acetone, MEK and paint thinner. Filled tank about 1/2 full, added about 1500 BBs. I then shoved a bunch of foam rubber, the tank and more foam rubber in an electric concrete mixer. Wired a piece of hardware cloth over the opening of mixer, and turned it on for a couple hours.

I drained out the red crude and flushed it with more of the mixture and it came out nice and shiny inside. The sludge cocktail that was left I just dumped it on some oil dry and it evaporated, leaving a red pile of oil dry.
Thats a pretty extreme way to go about it...but hey it woulda worked a treat. I dont have access to a lot of that stuff at present...neighbour borrowed my cement mixer about a year ago lol...all good tho hes across my street and saves me from trying to find a place to store it at present.
What is MEK...I did read about it somewhere...Id probably have to have a firearms license to get the BB's ...
Your method does provoke some thought tho...im back out to site tomorrow for a week so mite do some thinking on that..:thumbsup::cheesygrin:
 

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I cleaned a friends 1100 fuel tank lines with a speedometer cable about 16" long and a electric drill. Just started slowly to get the cable through the line, then revved it up to clean. Must have worked cause after carb cleaning it popped right off!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I cleaned a friends 1100 fuel tank lines with a speedometer cable about 16" long and a electric drill. Just started slowly to get the cable through the line, then revved it up to clean. Must have worked cause after carb cleaning it popped right off!
I was wondering how I was going to get the reserve line clear...good suggestion.
I gave tank a pretty good pressure clean out...the amount of crud in there...not rust crud tho. I did find a pin hole in the tank. Its corroded from the outside tho...It would appear its where the rear master cylinder is and has been leaking brake fluid on that one spot. I going to see if I can get it braised...mate across the road is a boily so hopefully maybe MIG it or nice copper braise job. Rest of the Tank is in pretty good nick...
 

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I would advise brazing instead of braising, old tanks don't have a very good flavor. TIG brazing or welding is a great option as the heat input is minimal and very controlled.
 

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