imported post
tomorrowneverwas wrote:
what is the best way in your guys' opinion to treat rust, even if only minimal in my tank? this is my first bike (84 gl1200 67k miles), and i noticed some tiny spots.
Anthony, the best way to do it yourselfis to pull the tank out (a real pain),, then flush it with MEK (methyl ethel ketone) to remove all the old fuel residue & varnish,, then rinse real good with VERYHOT water (a power washer helps here),, then add about6 oz of a phosphoric acid based rust killer like "Metal Prep",, then slosh the metal prep around to ALL the corners & seams (that kills the rust in the metal pores & converts free rust zinc oxide,, then pour the remaining metal prep out,,then dry out REAL GOOD (a day or so in the hot sun),, then pour in about 10-15 oz of "REDKOTE" (that'sa tank coating that covers all the rust areas & seals any soft spots),, Then slosh thatRed Kotearound by rolling the tank in all directions (basically fully coat the entire inside of the tank),, that RedKote covers the inside of the tank with a fuel proof coating that resists most anything that is poured in (except MEK).. If done correctly that tank will be good for life & never cause you any problems.
If you just leave the existing tankrust exposed it will haunt you for the rest of the time you own that bike by plugging filters, plugging those ultra fine carb inlet screens, possibly even start leaking in the future as alcohol in the fuel starts allowing held moisture to inflame those rust areas.
I have done numerous small fuel tanks on old equipment, old motorcycles, & antique automobiles & using the above method have never had a leaker or rust plugging problem. I have personally used many tank coating products over the years & some are prone to come loose in large sheets or thin strands & plug the tank outlet or filter screens but I have have very good luck with that "Red Kote"..
Twisty