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Thanks grambo,,,,,,,,, I did go back to it and got it all cleaned up. It really isn't that bad,,,,, I mean, it has no apparent drip of oil,,,,,, just a light coating around it. But I will still replace it.

Where do you put the sticky sealer?? Just around the outside of it after popping it in??? And would a gasket sealer be ok to use??
 

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excellent post, this should be in the workshop how to section.
 

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thanks for the pictures, man do they say a thousand words just by themselves.

:applause:
 

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I'm going to check out my seal today to see if it is leaking. I just finishished rebuilding the clutch slave cylinder while the bike was on the center stand. Hardest part of that was getting the bolt started to hold the bleed tube. :hallo:
 

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Excellent information. My shifter seal is working it's way out creating a leak so as soon as I can get a replacement seal from my dealer I will attempt to tackle this job hopefully without having to drop the exhaust. A very good tip about the difference in seal sizes, thank you.

Charlie
'98 SE
 

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Great lessson. I was able to remove my seal by only letting down the head / manafold it gave me enough clearance to get the shifter arm and seal out. The pics really helped.
 

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Well I did get mine done but I didn't have to take the exhaust header down or take out the engine bolts.

Just a note about cleaning the engine. I used brake cleaner with the extension on it and it did a great job. But you have to be careful to much and you may see some paint flaking as a result.

I took out the three bolts and removed the exhaust cover. Then I took off the carb cover and back cover along with passenger foot rest this gave me a little more room to maneuver around. I used a 1/4 ratchet with a long extension a swivel adapter with a short extension and a 10MM socket to get the bolt completely out of the shifter. You have to work in behind the frame and use one of the fingers on your left hand up between the exhaust to get the socket on the nut. You have to take the nut all the way out. Then I used a screwdriver to pry the shifter apart a little. You can see where to put the long thin blade screwdriver to do it. It is the slot that the bolt tightens when you put it back in.

Now here is the part that makes the difference. I pulled down and to the right and it came right out. I have replaced three shifter seals using this method and have had no problems at all.

Just change your seal and reverse the process.
 

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I had that problem as well. I pulled it straight down and towards the rear wheel at the same time. You might have to wiggle it a bit. I hope this helps.
 

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Don't forget, if you do drop the header you will need 3 of the copper "O" ring seals to put the header back in place.
 

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I had to remove the engine mount bolt and the two fame bolts behind the kickstand, then lightly pry the frame over to remove the shifter on my 99' 1500SE, and I bent the first oil seal and had to get another hard to drive the seal in straight with the exhaust in the way but its possible. If u try this get about 2 or three seals before u start, their only bout 2 dollars just in-case u ruin one like I did.
 
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