Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,002 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
imported post

Recently posted about repairing my kill switch and since then I have found my battery dead as a hammer twice. I did a draw test with the trip computer unplugged and have a well lit test lite when connected between neg cable and neg post. I unplugged every fuse and every relay in the fuse block and lite never went out. I also used my digital meter and the draw is near half an amp. I am not sure where to look next. Need help. My LTD is down.:(
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
90 Posts
imported post

In looking at a wiring diagram online, it looks like there's a 30 amp fuse between the alternator & the battery. Did you pull that fuse, also? If you didn't, maybe the regulator is shorted internally. With that 30 amp fuse out, the only thing that should be connected to the battery is the starter motor and the starter relay "hot" side, so you might want to disconnect those, just to see what happens.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,002 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
imported post

Thanks for the tips, I will try those in the morning.
 

· Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
Joined
·
3,577 Posts
imported post

NevadaDave wrote:
In looking at a wiring diagram online, it looks like there's a 30 amp fuse between the alternator & the battery. Did you pull that fuse, also? If you didn't, maybe the regulator is shorted internally. With that 30 amp fuse out, the only thing that should be connected to the battery is the starter motor and the starter relay "hot" side, so you might want to disconnect those, just to see what happens.
Actually, the Ltd Ed and the Aspy SEi have 2, 30 amp dogbone fuses instead of just 1. One is located on the starter selinoid and the other is located behind the starter selinoid and is an in-line type fuse. I'm not sure but I believe the in-line fuse goes to the cruise control.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
imported post

if your problem started with the repair of the kill switch could you have a short there somehow? i know with the switch off you shouldn't have any power to it and with the key on the bike may not start becasue it gounds the fire but is this when your problem started? maybe you pinched another wire in the area while repairing the switch?:shock:
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,002 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
imported post

skoto1 wrote:
if your problem started with the repair of the kill switch could you have a short there somehow? i know with the switch off you shouldn't have any power to it and with the key on the bike may not start becasue it gounds the fire but is this when your problem started? maybe you pinched another wire in the area while repairing the switch?:shock:
After I pulled all the fuses and relays and did not get the wanted result, I went to the kill switch and disconected it. Still shows a draw. The funny thing is other than the battery being pulled down the bike cranks and runs as good as ever and everything still works just like before the problem occured. The only strange thing that I have noticed is that sometimes blowing the stock horns, the radio will cut out. You know, come the think of it, I did replace that horn button a few months ago.......................hmmmmmmmmmmm. And had to do some rewiring. Sounds like I may have an early winter project.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
imported post

sounds like you got it?:action:
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
378 Posts
imported post

I had an issue like that last year. Finally tracked it to the radio. I'd pull the radio out and the draw would disappear. Sent it to Sierra. They couldn't find anything wrong but the problem disappeared. I was thinking maybe the tape deck or something got stuck on and drew the current somehow through the memory wire. Made as much sense as anything else. Try pulling out the fuse for the radio and computer memory. It's located under the left cubby if I remember rightly.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,002 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
imported post

Well I found the problem and it was so simple I am embarrassed to say...................................please go easy.................................................it was the trunk light staying on. Bent the tap that cuts off the light and well you know the rest. But I found it by unplugging the 7.5 amp fuse and then studying the wiring schematic and traced it all over and finally to the trunk light. Cut off the trunk light and the draw went away........................imagine that. Thanks for all the replies and advise.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
imported post

glad you found it. great job. we all learned something.:shock:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10,492 Posts
imported post

Yes, we did learn something. Like I didn't know the 1200's had a trunk light. I thought only the 1500 and 1800's had them.
 

· Premium Member
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
Joined
·
3,577 Posts
imported post

If you'll look on theright side of the light, there's a switch that you can use to manualy turn the light off so you can be sure of this not happening again!
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top