Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I went through the '88 GL1500 and put in new ignition wires, E3 plugs, tightened all the carb connections, found no cracked hoses, cleaned the coils, rebuilt the cooling system after cleaning-flushing & painting (now the bike runs at 1/4 the temp gauge), resealed the cooling ducts and sprayed carb cleaner in the carb body orifices & slides. I noticed a pressure release when I took off the gas cap and dont know what else to check. The bike rides great above idle and at speed. Pulling off in first with very light throttle reveals the dead spot and then a surge. The bike idles evenly but hunts to about 1200 rpm every five seconds now and then.

HELP ME, please
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,372 Posts
Waltstar, Read the two (2) attached Service Bulletins for the 1988.

Pages 1 - 4 and 5 - 9.......!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,773 Posts
2 Things to do:


1) Verify that the 2 Rubber Isolators are tight, located between each the 2 carbs and the intake manifold. Each Isolator has a hose clamp at bottom and top (So, 4 screws total).
You'll need a long screwdriver... ~2ft Phillips


2) Balance the carbs... using mercury carb balancing stick.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,372 Posts
In post # 1 Walt said he "tightened all the carb connections". I would think that to include the isolator screws.

Giving him some credit.....!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yup, first thing was tighten and dab gasket shellac on the screws. I have mercury balancers, but want to
1) seafoam the carbs to try and clean the off idle squirters
2) check the pump diaphragm if the seafoam does nothing to help. I have about 1/4 tank so I figure to pour a bottle in and see what it does.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,627 Posts
Yup, first thing was tighten and dab gasket shellac on the screws. I have mercury balancers, but want to
1) seafoam the carbs to try and clean the off idle squirters
2) check the pump diaphragm if the seafoam does nothing to help. I have about 1/4 tank so I figure to pour a bottle in and see what it does.
Walt,
Are you aware that the clamps have stops on them so you can not overtighten them when new. Over time the rubber gets soft and mushy. If the clamps are tightened all the way to the stop you can screw on them and say they are tight even though they might not be squeezing the intake or carbs. It is just that the screw is tight against the stop. With the airbox off grab the carbs and wrench them back and forth a bit. They should stay in place pretty much and return to the original position.
Did you try spraying around all the vacuum lines and isolators to check them for leaks. That can be a pretty helpful test if you spritz gas, carb cleaner or even water to see how it affect the running of the bike. Obviously if you spray and all is sealed nothing will change. It should just run the same.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,441 Posts
88 & 89 Wings had a hesitation off idle. A 4 or 6 degree trigger wheel to advance the timing solved the problem for most oowners
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,366 Posts
First, turn idle adjust back CCW to set idle warm at 850 rpms or there abouts.
 

·
Honda Guru
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
I bad the same problem with the manifold clamps not quite tight enough. I removed the clamps (no small effort) and then removed the screws and the spacer. Then I took off @ 2.0mm from the spacer. Smaller spacer lets the clamp tighten.
Concerning the ‘dead spot off idle’ ... yes it might have something to do with the RECALL but the recall description is best referred to as a hesitation.
Something I found before is 1 or more loose screws of the 6 screws that connect the lower air box to the carbs. That’ll cause an air leak like the ‘dead spot’ description.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
When I bought the bike 20 years ago, I put a 6 degree in it and then pulled it to replace it with a 4 degree. It ran fine all this time until recently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,773 Posts
I bad the same problem with the manifold clamps not quite tight enough. I removed the clamps (no small effort) and then removed the screws and the spacer. Then I took off @ 2.0mm from the spacer. Smaller spacer lets the clamp tighten...

If you're going to remove the carbs/isolators, then I'd suggest using "K&N Air Filter Grease" to re-mount the isolators... it seals up the joints pretty good (and also makes it easier to dis-assemble next time)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,627 Posts
I bad the same problem with the manifold clamps not quite tight enough. I removed the clamps (no small effort) and then removed the screws and the spacer. Then I took off @ 2.0mm from the spacer. Smaller spacer lets the clamp tighten.
Concerning the ‘dead spot off idle’ ... yes it might have something to do with the RECALL but the recall description is best referred to as a hesitation.
Something I found before is 1 or more loose screws of the 6 screws that connect the lower air box to the carbs. That’ll cause an air leak like the ‘dead spot’ description.
Like Ray said. Another fix is to wrap the isolator with electrical tape about 4 times to increase the bite of the clamp. Or go all out and buy new isolators. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,773 Posts
...Something I found before is 1 or more loose screws of the 6 screws that connect the lower air box to the carbs. That’ll cause an air leak like the ‘dead spot’ description.

Gotta dis-agree on this one... A leak like this is above the carb, hence will not at all affect the fuel/air mixture that subsequently occurs downstream, after the air has passed through the carb. An air leak above the carb will only By-pass the air filter... which is bad, because you'd be drawing dirty air into the carb.


Again, "K&N Air Filter Grease" is your friend on this joint.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
243 Posts
What went bad on mine is the 'U' shaped rubber pipe above the left cylinder block. (Left side viewed from sitting on the bike). Developed a tiny hole impossible to see until you pull the pipe off and inspect. Luckily it's easy to get at and easy to replace.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
360 Posts
The vacuum hose from the left cylinder head does cause the idle to do what you said. Surge from 750 to 1200 rmp. The hose gets hard and will start leaking. If your bike ran good for all those years and just started this you have a vacuum leak. The bike is over 30 years old and rubber goes bad with heat. Sometimes you can trim that hose back a little at the head and get the hose to seal up. Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Good advice. Ive heard of that and since all other functions are spot on, I will look into the hose. Where exactly is it? Can I get to it just be removing the side fairing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
360 Posts
The hose I'm talking about starts on the top of the left cylinder head and runs to the carb's if I remember right. If you pull the left side lower cover you will see it. I changed mine with the same hose from my old motor that I had, but that hose has to make a U turn and was made with that bend in it. I would buy OEM if I could find a new one. It's a good place to start looking for your Idle surge.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top