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Hello,

Thought I would throw this past some of you more experienced Goldwing mechanics. I have a 1990 Goldwing GL1500. I keep having problems with a loss of compression on some cylinders or all cylinders.

I have tried the center stand, plugs out, fifth gear, rotate rear wheel in reverse with no luck at all.

I eventually have to remove covers and remove lash adjusters and do the bleed routine on them, then reinstall and Wing runs great.

I have had to do this three times in the past couple of months. I have changed oil ( 10W-40 ), 3 Qt's each time with new filter a total of three times and have tried Seafoam and Marvel.

This whole thing started when the carbs flooded and I had gasoline in the oil. Since then carbs have been rebuilt, plugs changed, all new filters, all new fuel, all vacuum lines checked, all electrical checked, timing belts changed.

I have seen other postings that relate to this problem but no direct answer as to what is causing it. Welcome any suggestions. Thanks
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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I edited your post for readability, it was just one, long, run on sentence.
I could not make any sense out of it, so decided to edit it for other people to read.
 

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I don't know if anyone knows exactly why this happens but I will suggest to never run the engine unless you warm it up completely.
 

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How long was it run with gas in the oil, and how much gas are we talking? If it ran with very diluted oil for a long period of time, I'd expect accelerated wear and possibly a loss of compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

Hello,

Thanks for the edit AZgl1800.

Bike did not run long with gas in oil as right after having problems with carbs I checked the oil and it was just past top line and smelled of gas.

Does anyone have any idea why Honda added needle bearings to the rocker arms about 1992.

The rockers in this engine do not have needle bearings as the service and parts manual shows for 1988/1991.

Thanks


 

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Does anyone have any idea why Honda added needle bearings to the rocker arms about 1992.

The rockers in this engine do not have needle bearings as the service and parts manual shows for 1988/1991.
Probably longevity. Needle bearings will outlast bronze bushings in most applications. Also they will not have the scuff wear that happens on a cold start before the oil gets to them, especially if the engine has not been run in some time. Not a big deal as there are tons of engines with bushed rockers that last through several overhauls. Keep the proper amount of clean oil in the engine and it will last an incredible amount of years and miles.

BTW the change was in 1993.
 

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Hello,
Are you using a Honda filter? There were problems with some after market filters. If you compare a Honda filter and some after market filters you can see a difference in the check valve inside. My Dealer told me this when I had a problem with intermittent clicking valves after an oil change. Also the owners manual says approx 3.9 qts of oil with filter change. I did not have any problems when using EMPI after market filters. Try a Honda filter.

Gerry

Thanks for the edit AZgl1800.

Bike did not run long with gas in oil as right after having problems with carbs I checked the oil and it was just past top line and smelled of gas.

Does anyone have any idea why Honda added needle bearings to the rocker arms about 1992.

The rockers in this engine do not have needle bearings as the service and parts manual shows for 1988/1991.

Thanks

 

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Are you using a Honda filter? There were problems with some after market filters. If you compare a Honda filter and some after market filters you can see a difference in the check valve inside. My Dealer told me this when I had a problem with intermittent clicking valves after an oil change. Also the owners manual says approx 3.9 qts of oil with filter change. I did not have any problems when using EMPI after market filters. Try a Honda filter.
I agree some filters do not allow enough oil flow. His problem is the opposite, yours was not getting enough oil so the adjusters didn't extend like they should. His problem is the adjusters over extending.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No I have not tried new lifters as the cost for new ones is a bit to much at this time.

According to the service manual and following the procedure for bleeding and checking plunger movement there is nothing wrong with the lifters.

As far as over extending is concerned I don't see a relation to that as they are within 0.30 of the end travel of the adjusters anyway as per the manual test demonstrates.

I did check valve movement with a dial indicator when installing the adjuster with the proper shims as indicated with the Honda lash tool and do get valve movement when tightened to specs. This of course results in an open valve. If I go 1mm shim more than indicated the valve remains closed. Is the lash tool defective? All indications I have seen relate the tool measurement to be 56.6mm of which the tool should be ok.

In regards to oil level and according to manuals if the oil level is between the two marks it is okay. No noted problems with the oil pressure.

There was a related posting with this similar problem, Special Tool?

Going to re-shim all valves with dial indicator and see how it runs.
 

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As far as over extending is concerned I don't see a relation to that as they are within 0.30 of the end travel of the adjusters anyway as per the manual test demonstrates.
0.30 is plenty to hold the valves slightly off the seat. As long as the adjusters are somewhere near 1/2 way between fully extended and fully collapsed when installed they should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was referring to the 0.30 as a service limit not an opening of valve. If the movement is greater than 0.30 the service manual wants the bleed procedure to be done again until service limit is met. I would assume if the service limit is exceeded and cannot be obtained the adjuster needs to be replaced.

It appears that the adjuster is only for positioning the cam eccentric spindle for zero lash compliance of the rocker.

Does anyone have an old adjuster they could take apart. It appears there is a machine compressed cap on the top where the plunger goes in. I would like to know what it looks like inside to get a better understanding of the adjuster.
 
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