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Discussion Starter #21
Actually looked like it was not running lean it was tan.
Been cleaning head and combustion chambers with scotchbrite and with a mixture of gasket remover first then a mixture of marvel mystery oil and seafoam mixed in a spray bottle . Got the head surface pretty clean but some small dark spots do not seem to want to be removed. I rub my finger across them and it feels flat I dont want to scotchbrite a dip in the aluminum. The carbon on the valve chamber and valves came off pretty good with the solution I used and a little brass tooth brush.
Also when I removed the oil restrictor there was only one o ring on it. The small one. Still cleaning the hell out of tops of piston and block surface.
 

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Actually looked like it was not running lean it was tan.
Been cleaning head and combustion chambers with scotchbrite and with a mixture of gasket remover first then a mixture of marvel mystery oil and seafoam mixed in a spray bottle . Got the head surface pretty clean but some small dark spots do not seem to want to be removed. I rub my finger across them and it feels flat I dont want to scotchbrite a dip in the aluminum. The carbon on the valve chamber and valves came off pretty good with the solution I used and a little brass tooth brush.
Also when I removed the oil restrictor there was only one o ring on it. The small one. Still cleaning the hell out of tops of piston and block surface.
How 'bout a pic of where you're at? Did the little tubes come out okay?
 

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Actually looked like it was not running lean it was tan.
Been cleaning head and combustion chambers with scotchbrite and with a mixture of gasket remover first then a mixture of marvel mystery oil and seafoam mixed in a spray bottle . Got the head surface pretty clean but some small dark spots do not seem to want to be removed. I rub my finger across them and it feels flat I dont want to scotchbrite a dip in the aluminum. The carbon on the valve chamber and valves came off pretty good with the solution I used and a little brass tooth brush.
Also when I removed the oil restrictor there was only one o ring on it. The small one. Still cleaning the hell out of tops of piston and block surface.
You are working awful hard. The things you are doing are not necessary, Some carbon in the combustion chamber and the top of the piston is actually a benefit. To make horsepower you need heat in the combustion chamber. Carbon is a good insulator. Huge amounts are not good of course but if you can't get it off with a wire brush it is good to go. Shinning everything up is just eye candy. It will look the same 5 minutes after it is started the first time.
Also you could never hurt the surface of the head with Scotchbrite. I knew a guy who used Scotchbrite to open up bearing clearances one ten thousandth of an inch. (.0001")It took a lot of work. Then when he put the crank in he put the main bearing caps on backwards. Cranh didn't even turn. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yep one of the little tubes came out easy the other I am working on just have to get the correct implement of destruction on it.
Wish I would have known about the scotchbrite it was recommended in a number of posts and on a few different forums. Here are a few pics. Still working on the block as you can see.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I used maroon scotchbrite I'll blow it out real good before install. I'll put a straightedge on it. If its warped what's the level of warpage that acceptable. How much can be removed. After i put it on I'll clean bolts go clean threads and put moly 60 on threads. Before torque.
 

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I used maroon scotchbrite I'll blow it out real good before install. I'll put a straightedge on it. If its warped what's the level of warpage that acceptable. How much can be removed. After i put it on I'll clean bolts go clean threads and put moly 60 on threads. Before torque.
Hold up! Moly 60 on bolt threads? Why? You want to maybe pull the threads out of the aluminum?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yep got one dowel out gonna pull the other out. I have two new ones. I meant moly on bolts not moly 60. Lol
 

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I might consider a very light bodied oily mist, no moly on my head bolts. No locktites either.
 

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Book says just a little Moly under the heads of the bolts and on threads.Just a little! Always be sure the threads of the bolt and on the block are clean, Torque in order to 40 Ft/Pounds on proper order. You will want to change the oil shortly after start up. Moly is not good for the engine long term.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yep okay just the bottom of bolts I will be purchasing a thread chaser what size is that. How does the head look for being clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
So what does the moly paste do on the bottom of the bolt?
 

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Excuse me and on the threads.
The torque specifications for the bolts is based on the fact that they are lubricated with Moly grease. If you can not find Moly I would use a good quality High Pressure grease but just a Little dab will do ya. :smile2:
EDIT: You do not want grease on the bottom of the bolt. It needs to be under the head of the bolt. That would be between the bolt hex head and washer. For the same reason. That is how the torque spec was considered.
 

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Everything looks more than clean enough to me.
The bolts in the picture below are not your head bolts but examples of where to apply the grease. That is a little on the threads and a little between the bolt head and washer.
Another thought, deck of the head and block completely dry before installing head gasket and head. Don't over tighten the little 6mm bolt. Tighten it to about 14 ft/pounds.:smile2:
 

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Was the head gasket clearly blown? As I look at the piston, combustion chamber and the imprint from the sealing ring of the head gasket I have to wonder. Usually coolant in the combustion chamber will "steam clean" the carbon on the top of the piston and the combustion chamber. It will also usually leave a telltale black mary on the top of the liner where the flame cut though the sealing ring of the head gasket. Might you have the wrong head off? Did you look at the plugs for all cylinders to see if one or two of the plugs were steam cleaned?
If you study the pictures below you will see areas where the seal is good. You will also see areas where the carbon shows flame traveling through the area as well as damage where the flame had begun to destroy the sealing ring on the gasket. If you took the gasket off this engine most of the damage would be more visible on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Okay thanks for that info that helps. If you look at the head gasket you can see where it blew. I was assuming that was the side sign ce that's the side the anti freeze was pouring out from it wasn't just a drip. When I pulled the header pipe off there was antifreeze still in it. I am doing the carburetors with the Randak master kit. Since I will have that out i probably will do the opposite side also and install the poor boy kit i have had for two years lol. I also have two new e4s i need to put on. Procrastination is my middle name lol.
I really appreciate all the help this is the first interference engine I have ever done and the folks here have been great.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I think since the bike set so long on the side stand without being ridden or fired up I think that may have contributed to the failure. Plus the gasket appears to be an after market one as it was not exactly the same as the honda one. The last time I ran it there was a wisp of white smoke when I drove it but it went away. So then it sat for over a year on the side stand. Wont let that happen again as I plan on riding more since the situation now dictates I can. So I just need to go over everything and get everything right.
 
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