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I don't know where to begin to troubleshoot my problem. I swapped out a GL1500i engine, which had a bad transmission, with a GL1500A with 5800 miles on it. All wiring is hooked up, the battery is fully charged but I must be missing something or have something hooked up wrong. I don't get any lights on the gauge cluster. The starter switch Hot (+) reads 13+ volts. The fuseable link is hot. When I turn the key on, the horn functions. Also turning the key on and off does produce a click sound coming from the fuse panel. But the starter does not turn and again, no lights on the gauge cluster.

SIDE NOTE: I have the rear carriage off because the rear wheel is removed. Also, I have no lights installed on the wing at present; including headlight, taillights, turn signals, saddlebag lights etc. because all the tupper ware is currently off to be repainted. I'm sure that's irrelevant but just wanted to fully explain the existing appearance of the wing. Any and all help is greatly appreciated whether or not it produces favorable results. I can talk or text at 419-420-5162 if that's easier. I need to know what what I can test next to lead me to the problem.

Kevin
 

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Is the ground wire attached to the engine block? (right side by dipstick)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
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Hi Alex. Yes the ground from the battery is attached to the engine block.
 

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kemoloney wrote:
...turning the key on and off does produce a click sound coming from the fuse panel. But the starter does not turn and again, no lights on the gauge cluster...
> Bad starter solenoid/s?... verify that you have + current to it, and that the 30amp fuse (mounted to the first solenoid) is ok. Are you using the same ones that were with the prevous engine? (eg Are you sure they work?)


>Dunno why the gauge cluster would not have lights... am guessing that's unrelated.
 

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What year is the "interstate bike" (and I'm assuming the harness)?

Lights on the interstate's instrument panel (the back lighting?) should run through relay#3 (Tail Main) which switches power from the #8 fuse.

If you're looking for the bulb-check and oil-pressure indiactors on Key on (the indaicator lamps) they also get their 12V from the #3 relay and #8 fuse (15A) -- I know all the panels are off the bike, but with the key in the ON position - do youhave voltage for any of the marker lamps?

With the Horn working, the high-current power should be present at the #8 fuse (through the 55A dogbone) and also that the key switch is provideing juce to the coil of the "Horn/Turn" relay (#1) -- showing hat the 30A Main fuse (on solenoid A) is working.

If the rear carriage is fully removed, is the BAC still conected?? (BAC would inhibit the Ign relay (#6) and leave the starting /charging system without power (no fuel-pump, no coil power, no ecu power, etc)

Does your radio/clock come on with the key? (this is switched from the Ign Relay through the starter switch)

Replace the #8 fuse or at least remove it from the bike for a good test. bad ??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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Using same solenoid and its fine. I jumped the two terminals on it and it turns the starter over. One concern is that on top of the solenoid there are 4 terminals with a connector that has 3 wires; a thick red (hot), a brown and a yellow with red stripe. When connected...the thick red currently reads 12.5v all of the time. The other two read 4.25v with key turned on and read no volts with key off. When disconnecting the connector the terminal for hot and the unused terminal read 12.5v but the two that the brown and the yellow/red connect to read 0v with key on and off.
 

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Is it in gear?

Any difference if you pull the clutch lever In while trying to crank? (eg Over-riding a In-gear condition)
 

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When you jumped the solenoid and the starter turned over, was there any spark at the spark plugs?
 

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I thought of trying the clutch but it needed bled since I removed the clutch slave during the engine swap. I tried to bleed the clutch and I can't even figure out how to do that. I can pull and install an engine myself but can't even bleed a dang clutch by the manual. Im just getting brake fluid all over everything. Isn't that funny. After 10+ hours of troubleshooting this and after the clutch bleeding dumbness of today,. I've reached the level of frustration and will probably drag my half complete goldwing to the honda dealer and grint my teeth as I pay the million dollar diagnosis bill. Thanks all.
 

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kemoloney wrote:
... I tried to bleed the clutch and I can't even figure out how to do that...
> It's pretty simple if you use a Vacuum Bleeder to pull the fluid through the clutch line... takes only 5 minutes.

> Regardless, the bleed/not-bleed status of the clutch line is not a factor so long as you can get the engine into Neutral where it can be started... Can you do that?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
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I think its in neutral but can't tell for sure. No lights on the cluster and the back wheel is off.
 

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kemoloney wrote:
I think its in neutral but can't tell for sure. No lights on the cluster and the back wheel is off.
> Can you spin the drive shaft by hand? (Should be able to do so, if it's in Neutral)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
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Okay its on neutral. I can turn the shaft now where as before I couldn't. Still no power or starter crank
 

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Sorry if I misspell. My phone is my only internet access while with the bike. Typing on this thing is just as frustrating lol
 

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...
If you're looking for the bulb-check and oil-pressure indiactors on Key on (the indaicator lamps) they also get their 12V from the #3 relay and #8 fuse (15A) -- I know all the panels are off the bike, but with the key in the ON position - do youhave voltage for any of the marker lamps?
...
If the rear carriage is fully removed, is the BAC [Bank Angle Switch] still conected?? (BAC would inhibit the Ign relay (#6) and leave the starting /charging system without power (no fuel-pump, no coil power, no ecu power, etc)

Does your radio/clock come on with the key? (this is switched from the Ign Relay through the starter switch)

Replace the #8 fuse or at least remove it from the bike for a good test. bad ??
> Was any of this checked yet?
 

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Is the kill switch in the run position? Mine won't turn over or run in the kill position. Easy to miss.
 

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newday777 wrote:
Is the kill switch in the run position? Mine won't turn over or run in the kill position. Easy to miss.
> Verify Side stand is Up too (eg Kill switch on it might also prevent engine turn-over)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
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Ok I put the carriage back on and connected the yellow connector. I now have working turn signals and flashers including front and rear bulbs and on the cluster. I then reconnected the headlight. No go. And then the cb. No go. And none of the side marker lights are operational. I only have turn signals. Btw thanks to Steve Saunders wonderful youtube video, I successfully bled the clutch in two minutes time from starting with the banjo bolt at the master cylinder. I feel like im getting somewhere to but not far enough. Thanks so far Alex. You're making me think. The #8 fuse appears fine. I even installed a new one just in case. Im not sure how to test the relay though. I cannot install the radio because those wires we're cut because the harness was laying on the opposite side of the engine wedged between engine and frame. My only real mistake when installing the new engine. And I wasn't about to pull it after I found out. I was too far into it. Which is fine because im going aftermarket and with bluetoith headsets.
 

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kemoloney wrote:
...Im not sure how to test the relay though...
> Just swap it for one of the other relays that is not engine-related.... maybe the one for the turn-signals (since you know that works)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
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Okay I have swapped out the relay and that didn't help. Also kickstand and kill/run switch were verified. Seems to me the problem still lies with no lights at the cluster and the low voltage at the solenoid terminals I had mentioned earlier.
 
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