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had some questions on if there is anything i need to look for as far as notorious problems how long will it last it has 31K miles on it and how often do fluids need to be changed especially coolant. thankyou
 

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Welcome both of you! :waving:

I have a 78 GL1000, and the first thing I would (did) change is the timing belts.

There is a very informative link here about the GL1000:
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/used1000.htm

They're a great bike, and can last a few 100 thousand miles if you take care of them.

Keep reading posts here, because there's tons of useful information, and really helpful people.
 

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Change out the engine oil before you do a damn thing, then see if it runs, if it does watch the guages and lights, they won't lie to you, especially oil and engine temperature, anything real bad will jump right out at you.

If you manage to get it warmed up change out the oil again and go from there but keep asking questions here.



And a huge Texas welcome to both of you guys!! :waving:
 

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I echo what everyone else said, but I add that many four cylinder wings suffer from a failure in the electrical connector from the alternator to the bike's system. It's a white plastic connector under the left side panel next to the battery and the starter solonoid. Cut the connector out and solder the three yellow wires well, each to their corresponding system wire. Insulate the connections properly. Wire to wire orientation isn't a factor, as it's three-phase AC at this point so there is no polarity issue.
It happened to my '79 as well as to my Brother's '84 and resulted in alternator replacement both instances. A weekend long $300 job for each. The factory connector isn't heavy enough for the demands that wing owners place on them these days. The connectors get oxidized and loose over the years. Resistance plus currant makes heat and the loose connection eventually takes out the alternator and the connector. The best wire to wire connection on a viberating machine is a well insulated good solder joint. Spend an afternoon doing this or like me you will be spending an entire weekend correcting the damage, but it's a good way to become aquainted with the bike.
 

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Change the timing belts. O;d belts look like new kept behind the covers. If you snap a belt it's an interference motor and you're all done.
 

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belts, carbs, oil, coolant, tires, brakes, wires (the stator wires)
 

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I agree, change the belts. That is very low mileage for such old bikes. As for maintenance, oil, filter, air filter, new plugs, flush out the cooling system with distilled water, and add new coolant. Check and lube the splines on the final drive, Change the final drive oil, check the tire condition, check the brakes, might want to replace the fluid, it is easy on those bikes with non linked brake systems. You may also need to pull the carbs, give them a good cleaning, and maybe replace a few parts Since you already own the bikes, if they run ok, I would not even do a compression check, if the numbers don't look good, it will just make you feel bad. I have seen engines where the compression readings said they shouldn't even run, but they ran fine. If you have not started them after they sat for a long time, I would pull all 4 plugs and fill the cylinders full of oil, and let it set for several hours, then turn the engine by hand to make sure everything is ok. Keep squirting oil in the cylinders. A completely dry start can cause several thousand miles of wear. Then turn the engine over with the plugs out to blow out all the oil, put the plugs back in, and see if it will start.
 

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ekvh wrote:
Change the timing belts. O;d belts look like new kept behind the covers. If you snap a belt it's an interference motor and you're all done.

Yes it is a contact motor, a broken belt will cause catastrophic damage, please don't mess with them, they ain't hard to change and yes,over time theywill go bad, yes they do last a long time 10 maybe 20 yearsbut do you want to take a chance on 35?

Go to ebay, get the $35 pair with the free tool that helps you get the inner bolts out of the covers.

With that and help from here, it will take about 2 hours to have total peace of mind and a tighter running motor.
 

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ok i read all the posts and had another quick question, i drove it to work today the carbs have been gone through 100% and all jets replaced and it still runs a little rough at low speeds 15-45 mph any ideas. is it also normal for them to not want to stay running at first start or are you suposed to let them run a min or 2 before your drive them
 

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Some are cold natured...need to warm up.

I would get some seafoam and put in the gas tank and run it awhile. It might fix your rough running.
 

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They do need to warm up a bit. Have you looked into the fuel tank for rust? If the tank is rusty it can work it's way into the carbs and the stock carbs have very small passages that can clog up.

Did you change the timing belts yet? There are cross reference numbers for NAPA and Gates belts.
NGWClub.com is 4 cylinder wing oriented site and loaded with info about your bike.
Randakk has some good tech articles on bringing an old one back to life.
 

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I would check the points if the bike is still equipped with them. With 31thou on the clock it did get a bit of use, and they might have already been changed out for a newer EFI unit..
If not though.. you could have some pitted points...


Just a thought there, as you said it does run a tad rough, which can be a sign of worn points...although its been many years since I've dealt with points, I do recall that somewhere in my memory archives..

If it in fact still has points, you might contemplate swapping those out, as it was one of the better upgrades back in that day if memory serves. Maybe someone with a clear memory or recent experience can comment further.. :)
 

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Welcome both ., my best advise is to purchase your service manuals asap and read them to get to know your bikes.
Best money you will ever spend .
Try Clymer or Haynes for aftermarket manuals.
 

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first thought (since you said the carbs had completly built) did you or whoever built the carbs sync them? second thought would be the points

did you change the belts yet?
 

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the carbs have all new hardware, jets paper rubber kit i guess i dont know what points are what they do or where they are. thinking about just bringing it into local honda dealer and pay an hr diagnostic and then fix it my self i do have the service manual but i havent had time to look at it yet between getting it late lastnight 11 hrs of work and packing to move in a couple days.
 

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ok,,,,,,,,,,, IF memory serves, the points are located on the back of the left (sitting on bike) head, just in front of the shifter, that little round chrome cover, thats the one

where did the kits for the carbs come from? what supplier?

sadly the local honda stealer will not usually work on a bike that old. hell they actually laughed at me when i mentioned thinking about bringing my 86 1200 sei to them for some work

maybe its best to put it away for a few weeks till you are settled in your new home,,,,,,, small parts get missing really fast
 

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i know this is an old topic, what is the "special tool" to get those bolts out (and back in) easier??? got em out, but what a pain! should i remove the radiator? and how much of a pain is that?
 

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ooops, im new! :) (im in the process of replacing the belts) and i need to get the gas tank cleaned out do i have to take the whole tank out??? ugh, kind aregretting my decision with all this info
 
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