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I read teh part about what to check on used goldwings. I just replaced the battery and had my charging system worked on. The mechanic told me, luckily, it was not my stator. However, i bought a brand new battery, taht did not come charged...and charged it on a 2 amp trickle charger for about 7 hours. WHne i went out rididing, and stopped a few places, eventually my battery seemed to be dead.

HOWEVER, i just read on the "buying used goldwings" sectoins that they can start up good cold, and then start failing when they are hot..making a person think they are having battery troubles. I am confused...i am not sure if its not my battery, i was not sure what "bushes" issuei might be having.

Thanks,



anthony
 

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Assuming that the mechanic new what he was talking about regarding the stator being good, that's probably not your problem.

BTW, you didn't mention what year/model the bike is.

Based on your description, when it is warm and you try to restart the engine, it is symptomatic of seeming like the battery is dead - yes?

First I would take the battery out and charge it up and have someone test it just to make sure all the cells are good and rule it out. Next I would clean all electrical connections related to the battery, starter solenoid, and the starter - be careful with the starterelectrical post - don't let it spin as you loosen/tighten or you'll break the wire inside of the starter. I'd also replace the main fuse with a blade type if it already hasn't been done.

Its also is possible that the starter button may need to be cleaned. Could also be the starter solenoid isn't making good contact when the engine is hot.

Lots of things to check. Last of all, it could be the starter itself. You may get by with just cleaning out the starter and reassembling it. It also may need to rebuild. Sometimes the barrings get old and tend to seize up when they are hot.

Lots of things to check here. Let us know what you find out.

Ken
 

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If the starter spins over fine again when it cools down it is probably the starter.

Whenthe bike is hot and not wanting to turn overtry this;

As a test you can use a known good battery (not an auto battery though) or make sure your battery is fully charged and jump straight to the starter with it. Connect a jumper cable from the negative post of the battery to the starter body. Then connect the other jumper cable to the battery positive post. CAREFULLY touch the other end of the positive cable to the terminal on the starter. If the starter still wont turn over, or it turns very slowly you know it's the starter. This bypasses all the wiring in the bike eliminating it as a trouble source. If the starter spins OK then you knowthere is a problemin the wiring somewhere.

Careful though! If the key is on it will start and more importantly, IF THE BIKE IS IN GEAR IT WILL ROLE! All safety switches will be circumvented.

The starter is very easy to pull and rebuild. New brushes are only a few bucks. Do a search on "starter", there are lots of posts.

Bob :11grey:
 

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/forums/images/emoticons/smile.gif On a 1200.. the biggest issue is the stator, connections, and all of the 50 volt circuit...  after checking the "New" battery ... at the dealers.. for load ,and all 6 cells.. yes.. new batteries can arrive faulty... charge it up again, and clean all the plugs, and posts.. battery, starter.. etc Then......................... Disconnect the stator plug (three yellow wire plug , left side of the battery ), and re-check what your dealer said about your stator... if battery is "dead" after a few hours.. it sounds as if you are just NOT getting charging.. The test for the 1200 stator.......Need a multimeter with ohms,and AC Volts a) visual... is the plug look toasty inside  ?/forums/images/emoticons/sad.gifb) Electrical..is the resistance from a/b  b/c  c/a on the three yellows amost Zero ohms??c)Is the resistance from each of the yellows to Ground  almost infinite?d) Now  disconnect the stator plug, and then start the bike  and  with the bike running ...does each of the three pairs   a/b  b/c  c/a    give about 50 to 75 volts AC ?(never yank this plug on a running engine!!!) If the stator fails any of these tests, then its toast.. /forums/images/emoticons/sad.gif Many battery "experts ",and dealer mechs think this circuit is a  12 volt circuit.. it is NOT !! If it passess.. check the rectifier / reg (under false tank).. and then consider getting a  EC Harness...at the very least .. Hard Solder the three yellow wires, with Western splices,and triple shrink wrap .. Here is the EC site :: http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns_gl1200_charge.htm SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif 
 

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When you say your battery seemed dead did the headlights light up with normal brightness? If they did you're probably looking at a starter problem as the guy have already mentioned.

The quickest test of the stator is to compare the voltage measured across the battery with the engine not running and then again with the engine running at 3500rpm or so. There should be an increase of at least two volts. If there is it's most likely your charging system is okay, if not then it's worth digging into, checking the stator coil outputs and tracing down the line from there if all three coils put out around 50VAC. Check the infamous stator connector and the connector where the stator wires connect to the regulator.
 

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Hey, im worried though that because its an 84 gl 1200, that it wiill cost way too much to have the engine pulled. TO work on the stator and the starter, i was told that the 84 gl1200 has to have its enginre removed. Truthfully im a little disheartened cause it hink this bike is going to cost more than i can afford. sigh.
 

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If it is the stator, then search the threads on the external alternator fix. Its a heck of a lot less than pulling the engine and installing a Honda stator
 

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tomorrowneverwas wrote:
Hey, im worried though that because its an 84 gl 1200, that it wiill cost way too much to have the engine pulled. TO work on the stator and the starter, i was told that the 84 gl1200 has to have its enginre removed. Truthfully im a little disheartened cause it hink this bike is going to cost more than i can afford. sigh.
Do a couple of the recommended checks and also take a look at the connector that's on the three yellow wires just to the left and slightly below the battery. Often that connector has been partially melted. If yours shows any discoloring or melting cut it out and splice the wires directly without a connector. This is a common problem and an easy fix. I wouldn't worry about a shot stator until I'd made a few checks, there are a lot of other cheaper reasons to have battery trouble.
 

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/forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif Don't be discouraged.. With a couple of friends at the last step .. you can probably pull the engine yourself... get a manual, and a lot of Ziploc bags to label and keep bolts in.. get a good torque wrench .. and if you can wrench at all ...then  you should have it out within a few days... But .. do all the stator tests first ...  often the battery,or  plug, or rectifier are the culprits.. see my note (above by 6 posts ) about stator three part tests.... and remember.. they are not making any more 1200's .. so even if its a winter works project.. It is still worth it. ......a valuable bike that you rebuilt yourself ... You may not get all the summer riding you want... but a stator from JC Whitney.. and even a rectifier is much less than the cost of a Newer 1200... The other possibility is getting a used engine ($500 or less) for parts, and replacing just the engine parts you need /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif SilverDave....................................................................................... I have a friend in our Club who buys shot stator 1200 bikes around the province,  for about $500, trucks  them home, pulls the engine, replaces the stator, and re-sales the bike for $3000 to $4000 or more.. He has done 7 , all by himself, 'cept for the engine actual removal , which needs 3 people..the rest is done with a good manual, a wooden trolley , and wooden levers ,and hoists. He told me that once he had done a couple.. you only need to pull the engine foreward a few inches ,and twist it a bit  to repace just the stator..
 

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tomorrowneverwas wrote:
Hey, im worried though that because its an 84 gl 1200, that it wiill cost way too much to have the engine pulled. TO work on the stator and the starter, i was told that the 84 gl1200 has to have its enginre removed. Truthfully im a little disheartened cause it hink this bike is going to cost more than i can afford. sigh.

WRONG!

The starter motor does not require the engine to be pulled! (THere, did I just make your day or what!)

All you do is drop off the left exhaust, unbolt the starter, and then put the bike on it's side stand. Pull out the starter motor with the bike on its SIDE STAND and the cog should stay right where it should be. You may need to tilt the bike a little more to one side or the other to get it exactly where it needs to be, but it'll be prety darn close. Even if you loose the cog in the engine, you're no worse off than if you pulled the engine to replace the starter in the first place. If you DO pull the engine, then you should also replace the clutch, and the stator if you can afford it.
 

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SilverDave wrote:
/forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif and a lot of Ziploc bags to label and keep bolts in..
I always thought you were supposed to have a few left over bolts and nuts when ever you worked on the bike!!!!!
 

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/forums/images/emoticons/mad.gif RC Matt : thats right... and I usually do not...  I just did my starter .. one plain , rusty flat washer left on garage floor... /forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif.... I  later determined it was from  the wheelbarrow axel clamp.../forums/images/emoticons/cool.gif......but the reason for the labeled ziplocs.. when you finish with  a cotter pin,or lock washer left ... The labeled Ziplocs  enable you to finely focus your worry,and anxiety  as you putter down the road... Its not.. "I wonder where THAT came from??" ... its  .. "I wonder how long before the left shock falls off in a corner ???". LOLOLOLOLOL Silver/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/gunhead.gif
 

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I disagree about about the statement that it takes 3 people to replace a GL1200 engine. I have no problems at all when replacing a GL1200 engine by myself using a sturdy automotive floor jack. It just takes a few trips back and forth from one side of the bike to the other but it certainly is not difficult nor complicated when doing the job alone.

Vic
 

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This is a very confusing thread. Half is starter half is stator half is battery while another half is a lame mechanics and communications.

Anthony, maybe you should start from the beginning with the details of your bike, the services it's received and the problems.

and before you sigh you may find you're suffering from just bad contacts (one being your mechanic)
 

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The reason this is confusing is that this thread was started 3 years ago! Goldwinger1984 must have been searching the archives and dredged this one out.
 

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philcsand wrote:
Goldwinger1984 must have been searching the archives and dredged this one out.
Hey, he's a "senior" Guru, he's allowed to not catch all the details like he used to. :cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1:

Mike
 

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After all the above which is probably helpfull. I would go with checking out the starter motor. I had exactly your problem with my '86 aspy. Cleaned and lubricated the starter bearings. Perfect. Problem solved.

Cheers Les
 
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