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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Recently looking at the wiring on our 1997 GL1500/ '98 Lehman GTL trike, I was looking at three relays that I had years ago installed & wired and suddenly I realized that all I knew of them was they made my trailer's lights work. I had time, was bored anyway, so I tracked & traced wires. I made a chart, I also found a potential future problem splice & fixed it, & I found I had wired a recently added brake light in a great spot. My trailer has separate left & right amber signals, 1 bulb only on each, so the terminals on my 5 pin plug for turn signals are direct to the trike's signal lights, no relays.

But the running lights & brake lights are more numerous on the trailer, and so they are relay fed. Each relay feeding them are protected by 10 amp fuses at the battery + terminal, 16 ga. wiring. On my right handle bar is a 4 switch box on top of the front brake master cylinder, the 3rd switch looking from rider's left to right starts this.


A … Normally … hit brakes and power goes to the lower bumper 6 light's upper #194 bulbs through relay #2 and out via terminal 87A, and none of the three relays is activated as terminal 87a which is normally closed (NC).

B … Tow a trailer … flip switch on right handlebar control and that activates relay #1 … that sends power via terminal 87 to the trailer tail lights … and to relay #2 into terminal #85 which energizes that relay which then switches from the normally closed terminal #87a over to the normally open #87 … which causes current from bike's brake circuit at terminal #30 ... to go to relay #3 terminal #85 … which causes it to close and send current from it's #30 out through it's #87 ... back to the now open #87A on relay #2 and to the trailer brake lights.

Relays #1 and #3 terminals #30 each get power from the battery via 10 amp fuses. All three relays share a common ground on their terminals #86.

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Pretty clear huh? I knew it worked well, and I have a hitch receiver mount carrier with some lights, it plugs into trailer plug too. That oval red BRK light is a 4LED Red light.
These are 30 amp relays like bought at Advance and are not GL1500 relays.

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All of my connections of wires to female plugs are crimped and soldered and shrink tubed. I know a simple isolator would work, but I guess I had extra relays anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
HAPPY MOTHER"S DAY!

I as thinking about this, the seemingly complicated wiring with three relays, two SPST and one SPDT type, and imagined a simpler plan using just two. I guess I was trying to overthink it back when I did that, or maybe I was just not trusting relays … I don't know now, but I can do much the same thing with just two SPST relays.

I can set up with simple re-routing of wires at terminals and eliminate Relay #2 all together, just have two. The wires are all in place, I will even eliminate a couple, make it look less like spaghetti candy even. No rush, as it sits unless the switch is thrown, nothing happens except all brake light goes through the current relay #2 to 6 #194 bulbs and a LED brake light on the bike, but that's current through the BL switch.

If I change to just two, then that current for those lights is fed via relay from the battery, the BL switch just trips the relay. Relay #1 basically will see no change, but a fella could trip it with Accessory power to make it automatic … or leave on the present switch feed? The biggest change is that the #2 relay would work every time the brakes are activated … but then relays do that. I am sure the current to switch a relay is less than that needed for those 6 #194 bulbs & 4LED light?

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As it is with three relays, if a fella forgot to throw that switch, the trailer get's no tail lights and it's two brake lights are an added load on the bike's brake switch … but if I change it over, the switch just switches the trailer tails on & off, the bake lights get fed via the relay along with those extra bulbs I mentioned … always as long as the relays work. They are 30 amp relays, I use 16ga or heavier wiring too.

I'll probably simplify the wiring, take the center SPDT relay out of service but leave attached as "back up" and keep #1 on the H-bar switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What I done.


Looks better in person.



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