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There is no slipping. My gears switch perfect and I can even switch to neutral when I get to traffic light.
 

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tell us more!!. what oil was causing you the clutch slipping and hard shifting? which oil solved it?
 

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yes tell us more......
 

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It was Valvoline bike oil from Advance auto. I switched to cheapest Wallmart auto oil Supertech 20W50.
I have to explain why it helped.
Not because bike oil was bad and auto oil good. I wrote before in another post that my clutch dragging/gear switch problem was (I believe) because steel clutch discs 10 were reinstalled in different places so worn out spots on clutch center 8 didn't match original teeth.
I think that you have to reinstall steel discs in exactly same order and places they were before. When I filled auto oil slippery additives helped steel discs move over worn out spots.
Did I explain it OK? Again: each tooth of each steel disc digs its own hole on clutch center and you better install them back in right place!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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I was going to order new clutch center today!
 

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Interesting.....


You're gonna build up a lot of heat and cause even more wear, but I see your delema. Hope you get the clutch installed soon and put in a good synthetic motorcycle oil. 20W50 oils are for the air cooled hot running Harleys, not water cooled engines.



My .02 worth.

Steve
 

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I wonder if the clutch is going to start slipping over time. Did you push the bike hard to see if the clutch slips because thats what usually happens when you go to automotive oils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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I rode 60 miles today, it was not slipping. I was checking if RPM were jumping, it was fine.
 

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newbiker wrote:
It was Valvoline bike oil from Advance auto. I switched to cheapest Wallmart auto oil Supertech 20W50.
I have to explain why it helped.
Not because bike oil was bad and auto oil good. I wrote before in another post that my clutch dragging/gear switch problem was (I believe) because steel clutch discs 10 were reinstalled in different places so worn out spots on clutch center 8 didn't match original teeth.
I think that you have to reinstall steel discs in exactly same order and places they were before. When I filled auto oil slippery additives helped steel discs move over worn out spots.
Did I explain it OK? Again: each tooth of each steel disc digs his own hole on clutch center  and you better install them back in right place!
If your clutch center is that worn you should also check the clutch basket. The plain steel discs bite into the soft alloy of the clutch center (10) and eventually as you discovered dig a groove which can prevent them from freeing up when the clutch is pulled in. The fiber discs (9) on the other hand tend to wear a groove on either side of the slots in the clutch basket (19) which in turn can cause this problem. Having both worn and I am sure that if the center one is as worn as you say it is, there will be some more damage on the basket too.

Sometimes you can file down the grooves in the clutch basket but you are better off to replace them both. I have seen this kind of damage in high mileage 550 and 750 Honda's.
 

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Newbiker,



Your hub and/or basket are probably notched. Only time it really matters where you install the plates is when you put the entire used clutch back together, then of course it's the recommended course. If you replace the fibers or replace the fibers and steels.......it doesn't matter (unless your application has one or more that go in a specific place). Also, if you put new fibers in without soaking overnight in oil, they may slip as well.



Poor man's fix for notched basket or hub: grind/file the notches. However, they will wear faster the second time around as the plates have more space to move. Otherwise replace them. The more important of the parts is the basket.......IE, file the hub and replace basket........probably outlast the rest of the bike.



I don't know if there is any company (maybe Hinson)making a billet basket for the old wings......if so, that's the way to go for sure IMHO.
 

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In 215,000 miles and 32 years my clutch does not slip with automotive oil. In 1977 there was no such thing as motorcycle oil and Honda recommended 10w40 automotive oil.
 

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I just got rid of a 1977 honda. In the book it specifed which ratings to look for on the back of the oil containers. I don't remember off the top of my head what it was but I know you could only find that rating on the back of motorcycle oils. In 1977, I don't remember if it there was a seperate motorcycle oil or not. However, oils have changed over the years, they are getting closer and closer to synthetics. I know if I used regular oil in the CB750 and you hit the throttle hard, the clutch would slip pretty bad. That is the way I bought the bike and the guy I bought it from said it needed a clutch because it was slipping. I changed the oil 2-3 times in short duration of time and used motorcycle oil and the problem went away.
 

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sfruechte wrote:
In 215,000 miles and 32 years my clutch does not slip with automotive oil. In 1977 there was no such thing as motorcycle oil and Honda recommended 10w40 automotive oil.
Yeah but they have taken the ZDDP out of todays oils and replaced it with moly .
 

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that depends which oil you choose. Redline oil has the highest moly levels I've see. Delo 400 level is around 220ppm and I haven't heard of people having clutch slip issues. You might want to stay away from oils that state they are energy conserving in the lower part of the Api circle on the bottle.,,
 

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say something once, why say it again.,,document.write('/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif');
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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Late Kawasaki and Suzuki manuals recomend using SG an SH (not sure about SF) auto oils.
I don't think that Honda discs are different.
 

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i use valvoline 10 w 40 auto oil in my bike every time i dont have any problems with anything clutch or engine

its what honda reccoments 10w40 i suppose if you live in texas, arizona, utah extremely hot states for the most part temps over 100 average i wouldnt have a problem running 20w50 auto oil

but here in iowa the weather changes like my wife's mood FAST so 10w40 works just fine and i add alittle seafoam about 100 miles before every oil change
 
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