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Alrighty... I am sure I am going to open a "can-o-worms" with a few of my questions but here goes anyway. All my questions apply to a 1996 GL1500 Aspencade... and no... I am not a complete moron... I just bought the bike used and as a result do not have the owners manual. (Have one on order from Helm... but just don't have it yet. I'm hoping a few of you can help me get started on a few things I need to get done BERFORE the manual comes in.)



1. Where is the danged tool kit located...I haven't seen it yet. I hate to do expoloratory surgery without some idea of which end of the bike to begin with.



2. Can anyone tell me what sort of Spark plug to order. Most of the sites that sell OEM parts seem to list about six differnet SP's. They're rather vague about exactly which one goes in which bike. Once again... I hate to do expoloratory dissassembly just to see... I'd rather replace as I go andI have no guarantee that what's in the bike nowis the correct plug anyway. The bike has 44K on it. I figure it's due for plugs... how about wires, should I replace those too? Generally, what's the expected life on those? How much work is all this... am I going to have to dissasemble the entire fairing to accomplish this? Or can a reasonably skilled dude (an "ex" outboard engine mechanic) with a garage full of tools do this himself?



4. Oil... (I know this one is probably going to stir things up a bit!) I live in Texas and I'm likely to ride the bike for long distances in 100+ degree heat. Whats the best sort. I'm the kinda guy that is likely to change the oil about every 3000 to 5000 miles anyway so for the money, synthetics probably aren't my target choice. I know in my Shadow Honda reccomends a SG grade. Is this REALLY neccassary? It seem to me that motorcycle oil is AWFULLY expensive... is it REALLY all that different from regular automobile oil?



5. Oil filters... does anyone know what a cross over number might be for a Fram or a Wix brand filter? Purelator? Once again... I feel like I'm being jambed on price just because it's a flippin' "motorcycle" filter.



6. Finally, I have a fairly distinct clicking in the left valve cover... not oppressive and the bike runs alright... but itIS there. I have to suspect it's a sticky valve or a lifter. About 200 miles ago I drained off about 8oz of the oil and relaced it with the same amount of Seafoam. It hasn't fixed the problem. Is it too early to tell? It is true that I only drive the bike about 50 miles a day... and considering the weather here in Texas (there is some strange wet stuff falling from the sky... like rain. It's highly unusual here!) It has only been every other day or so that I have been able to ride. Might I solicit a few suggestions suggestionsregarding remedies? Should I change the oil and put in a whole can of Seafoam and then ride the piss outta the bike for a weekend?



Finally... Many, many, I mean many, thanks to Rudy in Nawth Jawga for his Goldwingtech.info page... have used this resource a lot... 30 dollar driving lights from Walmart... awesome! His "Rolling Tool Kit" page is awesome too. I am underway assembling a similar tool kit for my summer tour of New Mexico. Rudy... you're the shizzle man! Saa-lute!



www.culleynet.com



T
 

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First of all, there are no stupid questions. That's what we're here for.

Welcome to the best Goldwing site in the world.

Now, to answer some questions:

1. The tool kit should be in the left saddlebag.

2. Standard Plug: DPR7EA-9 (NGK) X22EPR-U9 (DENSO)

For Cold Climate: (Below 41 F) DPR6EA-9 (NGK) X20EPR-U9 (DENSO)

For extended high speed riding: DPR8EA-9 (NGK) X24EPR-U9 (DENSO)

I wouldn't change the wires and caps unless there is a problem with them.

4. From my owners manual:

10w40 - From -15 to 110 F
20w40 - From 35 F to 110 F
20w50 - From 35 F to 120 F

(temps are ambient temerature) It lloks like you may want to use 20w50.

You should use oils rated SF or SG. Since your clutch is oil immersed, you do not want to use any oil that has friction modifiers in it. It WILL riun your clutch.

5. If you go to the "Reference and FAQ forum" there is a list of aftermarket part numbers listed near the top. It will have all the part numbers you need for oil filters plus much more.

6. Don't know, but someone should be along to help with that one.
 

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Thanks... you're the bomb! Great answer on the oil issue... I figured theirHAD to be a good reason!



T
 

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I also suggest you check the timing belts.
Age will hurt them also...as well as a lot of miles.

There is a great write-up on this site for changing them out.

I changed mine on my 91 Interstate that had just over 43,000 miles and it's a good thing I did!!
 

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heres the link for cyclemax best site for goldwing stuff go easy on the credit card and welcome to the forum

http://www.cyclemaxohio.com/
 

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it amazes me the knowledge on here, simply ask a question and someone always seems to have the answer
 

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here is a list for oil filters

1800 OIL FILTERS (same as 1500 filters)

FRAM # PH 6017 = PH 6811 = PH 7015 = PH 6607 = ( 7317 long )

WALMART SUPER TECH # ST 6607 =

NAPA # 1356 = 1358 = 1365 =

AC DELCO # PF 2135 = PF1236 = PF1237 = PF1127 = PF2057 =

CARQUEST # 85358 =

MOBIL 1 # M1 108 = M1 110 =

STP # SM O17 =

BOSH # 3300 = 3323 =

WIX # 51358 = 51365 =

PUROLATOR # ML16817 = PL612

DEUTSCH # D335 = D362 = D373 =

LEE # LF2808HP

MOPTORCRAFT # FL810 = FL818 = FL1815 =

POWERFLOW # SL14459 =

PER # 4620 =

PUROLATOR # LI4459 =

STP # SO2808 = SO2867 = SMO17

FIRESTONE # TF2876 =

HASTINGS # LF 113

K&N # KN204
 

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YUK!! FRAM! No Not Fram! I had a Fram degrade after 1500 miles on a yamaha 1100 once and screwed my engine. They are made with paper end caps and crap glue inside. Just my experience. Most other brands are good to go.
 

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Hi, Neal here.
Sorry to ask a question about your questions..... but, is it okay to run 8oz of seafoam in the crankcase for a length of time? I am a firm believer in the stuff but I thought maybe an ounce or two in the crank a few miles before oil change.

Be blessed
 

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6. Finally, I have a fairly distinct clicking in the left valve cover... not oppressive and the bike runs alright... but itIS there. I have to suspect it's a sticky valve or a lifter. About 200 miles ago I drained off about 8oz of the oil and relaced it with the same amount of Seafoam. It hasn't fixed the problem. Is it too early to tell? It is true that I only drive the bike about 50 miles a day... and considering the weather here in Texas (there is some strange wet stuff falling from the sky... like rain. It's highly unusual here!) It has only been every other day or so that I have been able to ride. Might I solicit a few suggestions suggestionsregarding remedies? Should I change the oil and put in a whole can of Seafoam and then ride the piss outta the bike for a weekend?



Looks like your other questions were answered but I didn't see anything on the 'clicking'. I have had the same thing for a couple of years. I had a problem with hesitation and had the local Honda dealer take care of that. I also mentioned the 'clicking'. He took care of the hesitation but said if it was his bike he wouldn't worry about the clicking. He saidjust ride it and I have.He said he could fix it but it would not be cheap and I might have the same thing with another valve after he repaired the original 'clicker'. He said he didn't feel it would do any harm to the engine as long as it ran ok. I took him at his word and have put 12,000 miles or so on it and the click is still there but nothing further developed? I did put on a set of Torquemaster Daytona pipes which 'masked' the click. ;)
 

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Thanks for responding. I find that when I buy a used bike, I seem to go through a rather lengthy "getting to know you" period. Maybe it's just me, but i am always apprehensive about older bikes. This ofet motivates me to fix things that aren't really wrong. For example it has been suggested that I change out the timing belts... and knowing what I know that sounds like a pretty good idea... even if it doesn't fix the clicking. None the less thanks for the imput... in the end I am probably just going to keep driving the bike and hope it goes away as i work the engine and good lubrication works into all the passages and clearances.
 

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Since you didn't get an answer to #6, I'll throw in my 2 cents. The clicking could be from a valve that needs to be re shimmed. I have never done this on a wing, it may be a little easier than some bikes. Just food for thought till someone more knowledgeable comes along.
 

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1. The tool kit should be in the left saddlebag.
True, but the tool kit fits better in the right saddlebag.

Many many of us have moved it to the other side.
 

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I used Seafoam in the crankcase of my 1200 to clean the clutch plates, as it would slip under hard throttle in upper gears. Didn't cause any problems, and my clutch grabbed a little better.

John
 

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freetoride wrote:
Since you didn't get an answer to #6, I'll throw in my 2 cents. The clicking could be from a valve that needs to be re shimmed. I have never done this on a wing, it may be a little easier than some bikes. Just food for thought till someone more knowledgeable comes along.
He said he had a 96 1500, they have hydraulic lifters not shims.
 
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