Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Hey guys, newest problem.......



Got the ol girl runnin and drove her down the road a lil till she warmed up, then turned the choke off because the idle was up and noticed that with the choke off the idle was still around 3k rpm and wouldn't come down!!!



So i tried turning the idle screw to lower the idle, because the PO said he turned it up and it didn't do any good.



She needs a lil choke to run for the first time in a day but then when she is warm i can turn it off but the rpms wont go down when she's warm.



Any suggestions?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
521 Posts
imported post

Stickin' throttle or choke cable?...had a similar issue on my 1500 until I routed the cable correctly..maybe?
Cheers,
Peter.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,768 Posts
imported post

Look at the choke linkage as you operate the choke to see if it moves like it should and there is a little slack in the cable with the choke off. Then check if the idle screw rests against the stop, if not make sure there is slack in the throttle cables. If all that is good synch the carbs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,299 Posts
imported post

I wonder if the po messed with the carb sinc screws, and has at least 1 set wrong. My 2 cents.,,
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
imported post

put pressure on the idle ajust screw to push it in this my help over come a bind. There may be a problem with the throttle push cable.
wilf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,468 Posts
imported post

unless you know all the history of this bike, I would start by disconecting the cables and then make all the proper adjustments to the carbs. after you know the carbs are right then connect the cables and go from there.

Just what I would do.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
imported post

checked throttle push cable and choke cables...
they all seem to be in good order and working as they should.

However....i did notice that the air filter is missing a baseball sized piece of material where the fiber is supposed to be.....

Could this be causing the high idle?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,768 Posts
imported post

If that filter material got in the carbs and is hanging up a throttle plate it could cause that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
124 Posts
imported post

something is probably stuck in there. your going to have to pull the carbs and at least blow everything out with some air.
what year is it?

machineman2101 wrote:
Looks like a mouse er somethin ate it away
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
imported post

Its an 83, and i pulled the air cleaner out and looked inside the intake. There are screens inside and everything looks nice and clean, dont think anything got past those screens. There is also a metal inside grate to the air filter itself.

The bike used to idle fine until i took it out for a ride, then while riding i heard a pop and since then, it will not idle down after its warmed up.

Can i sync carbs with it idling that high?
:?:?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
imported post

Also....would a leaking head gasket cause this problem?
I still need to look into the milky oil situation, maybe thats part of the problem....?

The drain holes by the spark plugs were clogged shut and i was hoping that that was the reason for milky oil, but i still need to check compression on the cylinders to know if that head gasket is gone or not.
 

·
Still Learning
Joined
·
13,270 Posts
imported post

"I still need to look into the milky oil situation"
leaking head gasket and or water pump failed seals and bearings will get water into the oil and foam the oil.
Is there oil in the antifreeze, radiator or overflow reserve tank? Loosing water?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,768 Posts
imported post

No a head gasket leak will not cause high idle and usually not milky oil. More likely the water pump. Check that the weep hole under the pump is open, a leak from the water pump should come out there most of the time. I found 1 someone had plugged with red RTV. The high idle is probably something holding 1 of the throttle plates open slightly which will in turn hold the other 3 open also. You can do a mechanical synch with the carbs in place. Remove the intake runners. I use a thin feeler gauge (.002") and set the idle screw so the gauge drags slightly in #3 then adjust the rest the same. It is a pretty good base setting to start from.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
imported post

On my way to setting these carbs manually and i notice that not only are these throttle plates ALL open to different sizes, but inside intake valves 1 and 3 i have gas AND antifreeze!! No oil in antifreeze reserve tank or radiator which is good.
:waiting:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
imported post

I tried to set the carbs manually, and found that i cant get the idler screw to move the throttle plate on carb #3 at all no matter how much i move it in or out!!:thumbsdown:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,768 Posts
imported post

Do all the throttle plates move OK when you twist the throttle? If #3 is open quite a bit already one of the others could be totally closed and holding it open. Go to the one that is closed tightest and adjust it open and then check the rest. Get them where #3 is closed tightest and start from there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
imported post

Got the carbs figured out setting them manually!!
She runs ALOT better!!
In fact....i was able to set the idle down as well, now she almost purrs like a kitten.
:applause:

Thanks again for the helpful info!
This is why i joined!!
Gonna be ridin soon.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top