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Hello to everyone on this forum.

I just registered after buying a 1977 GL1000. The bike was running when I bought it (albeit not smoothly). It had sat for 6 years unused. I've stripped the bike entirely and had the frame powder coated etc for a nice renovation and it's looking great

Here's my problem.... the bike has points ignition. I replaced both sets of points with after-market, non-Honda ones. I'm getting a very poor spark on 1 & 2 and no spark on 3 & 4. However, if I remove the feed wires to the points and ground them to the points body and then lift off, I get a nice fat healthy spark at the HT leads.

I've really lost touch with points ignition! Last time I did this sort of thing was 25 years ago on a Triumpoh Bonneville. Could someone please advise me as to what I'm doing wrong?
 

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Be sure there is no dirt or grease on the point contacts and they are gaped properly also there is a tip to use a star washer under the point plate screws to make sure it is grounded to the head.
 

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Are the wires OK as they go into the points housing? An inadvertant ground to the housing is an issue.
If you aren't into "totally stock" then the Dyna S ignition (DS1-3) replaces the points and condensor. The kit comes with a different ballast resistor that you have to put in to replace the stock resistor (it's mounted to the coils).
The Dyna coils (DC1-1) aren't just a replacement...they are a fine upgrade over the stock units. You can open the sparkplug gap to .034". The Dyna coils don't require a ballast resistor at all. I think Accel makes coils for the bike too or you can use GL1100 coils. The stock coils have permanent HT leads so you'd need new wires if you upgrade the coils.
This next probably isn't your problem but you might want to take a look. The sparkplug caps have resistors in them. Pull a cap and look in the end. The small screw comes out and the resistor will come out. Corrosion at the resistor can cause a weak (or no) spark. NGK makes replacement resistor spark plug caps with the correct angle for the bike.
 

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The points wires are new and not grounding. I haven't put the points cover on yet, so can see the points etc. The suppressor caps are new, although I'm testing for a spark using the 'naked' wire anyway.

Yes, I've been thinking of putting 3 ohm coils on, fitting Dyna and getting rid of the ballas resistor and condensor.

I think from some of the responses here that I am not getting a good ground on the points themselves. I connected them up to the wires, not screwed on to the plate and just pressed them onto the edge of the points housing, then pushed them open. I did then get a spark at the HT lead......
 

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Remember that on all wasted spark ignitions both of the plugs on a coil have to be grounded to get a spark.

Steve
 

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I would rotate the engine by hand until one set of points is closed. Then manually open and close the points with your finger and watch the sprk plug. Do the same with the other set of points. This will at least confirm or eliminate grounding, wiring, coils, etc.
 

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Thanks for the responses. I think the problem is the grounding of the points on the timing plate. Having messed about with them and put a star washer underneath as per one of the responses on this thread, I got a spark.

I've decided to put Dyna S ingnition on with 3 ohm coils and get rid of the ballast resistor and condenser. I suppose purists would say keep the points etc but, having fiddled about with them, and knoiwing they'll need gapping etc regularly, I'd rather not bother. I have a Yamaha XS1100 and fitted Dyna coils and bypassed the resistor and it felt much better, even with the OEM TCI ignition.
 

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I'm running the DYNA-S as well. Switched from points about a month ago.

DYNA trigger,1.2 ohm resistor, no condenser, factory coils/wires/boots w/resistors, D7EA w/.035 plug gap on E-10 fuel.

Runs strong. Starts right up without hesitation. Idles great all the way to redline under load (to third gear anyway. Haven't tried redlining 4th and 5th yet).

Right now I'm using the factory accessory block to power the DYNA (amongst other things powered from it). The only problem I've encountered is the plug that connects the ignition switch to the electrical system. Power for the accy terminal comes through this plug (pink wire on mine to the main fuse block). A bad connection there will not supplypower to the accessory terminal shutting the DYNA down. Left me standing, twiddlin' my thumbs a couple times 'til I cleaned that plug up.

Jigglin' the harness behind the neck/headlight got me going. :D

Will be adding a relay/circuit to power the DYNA, but will still use the accy terminal to trigger the relay.

More changes ahead. :)
 
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