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I've been trying to do the static timing on my bike with points/condensor, using a test light. At F-1, the light has a very weak signal, whereas at F-2, it goes to full brightness. If i adjust the main breaker plate screws to adjust timing of 1-2 points, IE so that the screwdriver head is putting slight pressure on the breaker plate to turn it, then i can temporarily make the light go bright just as the points open. As soon as i let off, even when i tighten the screws, the light stays weak. Wierd. If i rotate the engine, with the test light still on 1-2, the light will go bright, but somewhere between the two F marks. Seems like there's a ground issue with the breaker plate/bike?
 

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Put a temporary ground lead from the breaker plate to a good ground on the engine, see if it makes any difference.
 

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Point overlab can really be a pain....go here:

http://www.randakks.com/TechTips.htm#7

.....and read this, "Ignition Quirks..."Split-Timing" Technique.":cooldevil:


On mine however, (after burning up the DyanS) I found the left point had to be set a 14 and the right point at 13. Your's might require different settings, but the link above had very important info. Also I found that the point brand has a lot to do with it.
 

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Yup, that's about where mine are at. I went with new OEM honda. Cheaper to buy the whole assembly, which i needed anyway. Thanks. I'm gonna go back and do the split timing thing. I misunderstood intitally, and thought it was splitting diff between both PAIRS of cylinders, rather than the 1-2 set. Makes sense now. I found that setting the points wider than 13/14 ended up having too advanced timing on both.
 

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Got it! Went back and did the split timing, as per Randakk's site. Also, i swapped out the mechanical advance unit -- the rubber cam pads were probably not making for even action, as one side was worn down on my old unit, also maybe springs too loose. Now it all works great. Lights come on when they should.
 

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Maybe, Max. Having had one die on me and leave me stranded, also the cost, is dissuasive. I like the reliability of points, simple. bike runs great now.
 

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Half my DynaS blew out, and it turned out to be the fault of their early ballast...the way they had it soldered, it broke loose and caused a serge and fried one side. So I eliminated the need for any ballast with 3ohm coils, and i've heard their new ballast is better. I'm definately going back to the Dyna....I hate the way the cam flex affects the point timing. It's a real pain, and you get much better gas milage with the pointless ignition. $75 to get it repaired.....it's worth it. I've got a DynaS on my '76 836 SuperSport too! I'm spoiled!!!
 

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Hey, there's lots of cool stuff i'd like -- new seat, etc. When i get the budget up i might just spring for the Dyna, and use points for backup. For now, it runs great. When the previous EI failed, i had to TOW the bike home. That wouldn't happen with points.
 

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Memories ;), duel points. Triumphs and K model Hondas. Used to use a transistor radio,(tuned off-station), speaker would give a very audible "POP" just as the points started to break. It was easier to listen for the pop, than watch test light while adjusting the breaker plate.

Glad you got it all sorted .... :gunhead:
 
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