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76gl1000 timing issues. The bike broke a timing belt before i bought it. I installed used heads off a good parts bike. Put engine at T1 timing mark and installed camshafts and aligned pulleys to their timing marks then the belts. Then points assembly whent back on. No matter how many times i rotate the crankshaft to F1 timing mark the breaker cam dot will not align with the rubbing block on cylinders No.1 and 2. It looks to be about 90 degrees off rotating clockwise. I tried to start the bike before timing adjustment and it backfires a little and smokes out the exhaust a little. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Im getting confused.
 

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Seeing as I apparently didn't really read the first post.........I deleted my ramblings. I apologize if I created any un-needed tension. However, here's Randall Washington's great site that is dedicated to the older wings. Good stuff here.


http://www.randakks.com/TechTips.htm#D

Good luck to you.

Hobie
 

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Seeing as you installed new heads I would assume that end is OK and the pistons are OK. Ditto that belts are installed OK.

The way I time my 77. NOTE: (The timing lobe with the dot is to make it easier so that you are using the same lobe for both sets of points. You don't actually line the dot up to the plastic lift portion of the points. If you do the timing will be off.)

Hook up a light. This is the poor man set up. ie: signal light with a pig tail to ground and then to #1 set of points. With ignition off rotate the engine ( I tend to use the kick starter but there are other options. each to their own),until the plastic lift on the points is at the highest point on the cam lobe. Set the point gap. Do this for both sets of points. Then turn ignition on and kill switch on. Rotate the engine and as it comes up to the F1 mark the light should light. Adjust the advance plate until the light just comes on at the F1 mark. Hook up light to second set of points and repeat the procedure using the F2 mark. You may have to adjust the second points plate. Go back and check first set and then recheck second set. Adjust as necessary. Watch the light closely as when you tight the screws holding it on it may come off or on. That's normal wear at play, but you have to adjust the plate so that the light just comes on at F1/F2.

You get very close using this method and when you set the points set them at the widest recommeded gap. As they wear they are going to close up but will stay in tune a lot longer. Lubricate the cam lobe.

That's about it.
 

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Cycleman, that is a very concise tutorial. I have a '77 project bike and I haven't messed with the timing yet but I copied your post to use.

Thanks for getting it right.:clapper:

Hobie
 

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Thanks for the help cycleman. I'll try your mehtod and see were im at. The ---- chilton says to align F1 and cam dot at same time then light should come on. Im also putting new coils and plug wires on. I already installed new plugs. So with your method hopefully it will start. I'll try this tommorrow as no time tonight.
 

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Ok. Im getting the test light to come on at F1 on cylinders no.3and4 and F2 light comes on on cylinders no.1and2. Looking at points 1and2 on the left and 3and4 on the right. How did this happen.
 

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Left cam 180 off?
 

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So i need to take off belts and turn left cam clockwise 180 degrees. Is this correct. Is this the cam on the no.1and3 cylinder head or the no.2and4 side.
 

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That's what I'm thinking, there is a mark on both sides of the cam pulley so you could have used the wrong mark. That is the 2-4 side. Turn the crank off TDC before turning the cam to prevent valve damage then turn it back to TDC and put the belt back on. Doesn't matter which way you turn the cam, it's 180 either way.
 

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I'll try turning the cam 180 but will that affect the UP mark on cam pulley as it is at the top.
 

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I forgot about that, if it has an up mark then it should naturally be up. Is it possible you have the wires to the points reversed?
 

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I thought that to so i reversed the wires and the same thing happens. The points on 3-4 open at F1. My test light comes on when the points are open.
 

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Is it possible i set crankshaft at f2 instead of f1 when installing the camshafts and pulleys. I dont think i did but if so would this problem occur.
 

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The cam pulleys Need to be installedreversed from each other, In the center of each pulley is a raised collar on one side. On the right side cam the pulley should be installed with the collar facingforward away from the engine, on the left side the collar should be facing back toward the engine otherwise you will never get thetiming correct. I hope this helps.

Peter
 

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I never took off the pulleys from the cams when i replaced the heads. I checked anyway and their just like you mentioned. At F1 the pulley timing marks are aligned and up marks in up position.
 

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Is the best solution just to take it all back apart and start over. But leave the new heads on. If so does it matter if F1 timing mark is on intake stroke or exhaust stroke when reinstalling cams and lifters.
 

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airman wrote:
Is the best solution just to take it all back apart and start over. But leave the new heads on. If so does it matter if F1 timing mark is on intake stroke or exhaust stroke when reinstalling cams and lifters.
The F1 mark indicates the 1&2 pistons are at TDC, the cams determine which stroke it's on. If you remove the valve covers and the valves on #1 are closed and have clearance and the #2 valves are in overlap, exhaust just closing and intake just opening, when on the F1 mark then the cams are timed correctly.
 

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Ok, i pulled it all apart and started over. Put crank at T1 and reinstalled cams. the timing marks on pulleys lined up and UP marks at top. New belts installed, Rotated crank to F1 and points 3and4 open and 1and2 on F2. Test light comes on when each set of points open. Is this right and if not how can i correct it. I have a 1976 LTD does that make a difference. I forgot to check valves for stroke.I will take covers off and check thatafter breakfast yum yum.
 

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I still think the left cam is 180 out. Could be someone put the pulley on backward. There is no other reason for the points to be opposite what they should be.
 
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