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Ok, so a long long time ago (like right after I got the bike), the factory stereo went wrong. Don't know what happened, just stopped comunicating with speakers. I tryed to track it down for weeks and finally gave up. I ripped out the entire system, CB, harness and all. I put in a Kenwood deck with Boston speakers and made a harness from scratch. The first time I put it in (shown in first pic) it was rigged pretty poorly. It was a really tight squeeze getting the stereo to snap into place and it was squshing the harness in the process. I figured that was the cause of the stereo cutting out every once in a while, especially on cold mornings, that it was pinching the power line.

With some advice from this forum I pulled it out and got an install plate from Sierra (second pic). That required removal of the factory volt meter, so I installed an after market unit where the old CB was (third pic). Since the stereo was cutting out randomly, I wanted to eliminate any possable problems. So now that the stereo fit with room to spare in the back, I cut off a few inches of the harness where it had been pinched and tapped into the power that was feeding the factory volt meter (fourth pic) to feed both the stereo and the new volt meter. Problem solved, right? No.

So, it cuts out, completely at random. When I say cuts out I mean the stereo acts like it's lost power and has to reset. Some times it happens once, sometimes it happens10 or 20 times in 20 minutes (like it did today). Sometimes it happens when I'm riding, sometimes when I'm sitting at a stop light. Thereading on the volt meter doesn't budgewhen thestereo cuts out, and since they're fed from the same line, that tells me it's notan issuewith where the power is coming from. So I decided to try to recreate the problem.I've tryed tapping the deck... nothing. I've tryed pulling the stereo out and wiggling it... nothing. I've tryed tugging on the wires at various points... nothing. So I tryed to find common ground with when it cuts out. The ONLY correlation I can find is temperature.

When it's good and warm outside, the stereo never cuts out. When it's cool, or cold (like it was today) it cuts out A LOT!!!! WTF?!?!?!?! Somebody save me, I'm loosing what's left of my mind!









 

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It aint rocket science
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Curious as to why the radio has a seven volt lead. Is it a 1200 thing?

JD
 

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That group of wires wasn't from the original stereo, they were going to the factory volt meter. The 7 volt line (I'm assuming) was the same 7 volts feeding the rest of the instruments.
 

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All leads powering radio should be 12v, unless you had a dimmer (rheostat) for night lighting.

JD
 

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I should have clarrified, the green/black wire that I tapped into IS 12v, the one that's capped off is 7 volts, the straight green is ground. The volt meter had both 12 volt and 7 volt lines going to it.
 

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It doesn't look like you've gained much room by using that faceplate. The first pic is a cleaner look IMO. Don't know if you can go back to it though. ...

Solder all connections. ...

...Does the radio fit tight fore and aft (front to back) still? I'd look at stress on the connector and maybe at the connector where it is soldered to the board.

Could be a resistance issue that when it's cold it has a very high resistance and when it is warm it has a very low resistance. Maybe all the fittin' and squishin' created a seperation of a soldered pin from a trace on that connector at the board, or an otherwise bad joint there. Maybe so much tension that you cannot recreate the cut-out problem because only temp and/or vibration is the only way.

I'd look at the plug area...
 

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I inspected the area pretty well and didn't see any damage, of course that doesn't mean much. The old set up had the stereo almost half an inch further back than it is now, before I would get the stereo in up to about 1/4" and then have to force it. Now it slides back just fine with no resistance from the wires, so I think it has enough room to breath now.

The first pick does look pretty good in picture, but in person it was terrible. It was litterally just ply wood with bed liner on it, and you could tell, but you're right, the picture makes it look better than it really was.
 

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I'm with the Captain, I would guess its the where the plug on the back of the radio is soldered onto the board inside the radio. Does the radio cut out when you are setting still as compared to riding? Is it an issue with being cold and the vibration? If it cuts out when cold just setting in your driveway, does it cutout if you pull it out of the mount?
 

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Does the radio cut out when you are setting still as compared to riding? Is it an issue with being cold and the vibration? If it cuts out when cold just setting in your driveway, does it cutout if you pull it out of the mount?
All of the above. It cuts out sitting still or riding. I haven't found any correlation to vibration, just cold. I have not been able to recreate it by pulling it out of the mount. I've tryed pulling it out and shaking the deck and it didn't do anything. I tryed putting stress onthe harnessin all directions at the plug and it had no effect. I have not foundany way to recreate or predict when it's going tohappen, except of course that it will do it eventually if it is cold out.

When I say cold I mean anything below about 75.
 

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Get yourself a can of freeze spray (radio shackcarries it) pull out the radio and spray the connector at the radio. If it cuts out then you most likely have a poor solder joint in the radio or a poor connection at the connector. The worst problem you can deal with is an imtermittant electrical problem, there a PITA to trace down. Good luck
 

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"Freeze spray" is one of those things that you'll need to elaborate on. I've never heard of it. Is it actually called "freeze spray"?
 

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I had a stereo once did the same things you describe. If the circuit board in the stereo was wave soldered you could have a (cold joint) on the circuit board in the stereo itself.
Finicky to temp and nothing else. Does this occur with the stereo on a bench?
 

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Does this occur with the stereo on a bench?
I haven't actually put it on a bench with power going to it, but pulled out of the bike and just sitting on the false tank it still does it. But it's so random that it's only actually done it once that way.
 

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blackknytecnc wrote:
"Freeze spray" is one of those things that you'll need to elaborate on. I've never heard of it. Is it actually called "freeze spray"?
Yes, it is actually called "freeze spray" it is use to cool down electrical componets to test for cold solder joints. Most electroincs stores carry it.
 

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Sure sounds like a bad solder joint some place. Sounds like Terry has you covered on the freeze spray. How old is your stereo? Still under warranty?
 

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I'm going to give the freeze spray a shot tomorrow, I bought the stereo back in June, I think, but I don't remember if I bought the warranty with it, I'll have to dig out the reciept, I'll let ya'll know what I come up with.
 

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Your deck requires 12V acc. " on when key is on "
Also 12V bat. " on all the time " to power the memory.
If you have these ok ., check for good ground .
If all ok. and you really love your present deck , take it to a car stereo shop and have them do the freeze test as they will know what to repair if the freeze test shows a fault. Be prepared for a hefty repair bill and consider just replacing the deck if your sure the above wiring is good .
 

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Ground...ground...ground...ground!!!!!



Norm
 

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If you have a car why not temporarily hang the deck in it and see if the problem is involved with the deck itself of the bike installation? I would bet the problem is in the unit itself and isn't going to be easily repaired. Surface mounted stuff is a real PIA to do any trouble shooting on. If you have a Sams schematic and an oscilloscope you could chase it out but even that would be pretty difficult if it's intermittent.
 

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I installed a Jensen in my 85 Aspy and it worked like a champ. Now I did NOT go to all the trouble you did, I just created my own little wiring "harness" and slid it in the old hole that the original came from.



 
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