Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

I believe my temp gauge is not working. Now I have not run the bike very much but I have gotten the radiator hot so I figured I'd see something. I read for voltage on the back of the gauge and I have 7 volts on one side and 5 on the other. I assume the 5 volts is reading voltage drop across the sender which tell me it's not open. Before I go after the sender, buried behind the carbs, can I check something else.

Also I'm only getting 11.5 volts at the battery gauge. The battery reads 12.5 is this just drop from the wires or should I be looking at bad connections. There is some burned up wiring near the battery but these feeds also come through the ignition switch.

While I'm at it can I just complain about the neutral indicator. There is a stupid switch on the clutch that lights it when you pull the clutch. Ok I know when the clutch is pulled, I don't needa light,and it makes it tough to make sure you're in neutral before letting out the clutch. Is there any reason NOT to disconnect these wires.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,824 Posts
imported post

The voltage drop is excessive. If the bike has not undergone a cleaning of the connectors it is time. It is time regardless. All connectors should be carefully released and opened. Spray in contact cleaner or brake cleaner, both male and female, blow out with compressed air. Make and break the connector connections 3 times to rub the contact points together to remove whatever could be there. Do the whole bike. It is patient work but well worth the effort. If any electrical devices are mounted to the frame in any way, remove the fasteners and clean them, do no lubricate any electrical and ground connections. There is only one type of grease that conducts and it contains copper fragments. Any grease used as a lube will act as a dielectric (insulator) and cause greater grief. Do not grease the battery terminals, keep them shiny clean. Then after all is clean start over and most of the problems will probably be gone. Remember the system starts off with 12 VDC, not very much and crud, crap, contaminations, dirt mixed with road crap and age will certainly diminish conductivity.

Take a multimeter and go around with the ohms at X1 and see what the resistance is from the battery -terminal with the ground wire hooked up to any and all negative or frame areas and the reading should be zero or what ever the shorted meter reading is, anything higher needs cleaning. A good DMM, will withstand the voltage hit if you screw up, but a cheap analog meter will burn the internal meter fuse and damage the meter. So if you have a so so meter disconnect the battery out of circuit totally and go from ground point to the - wire that was on the battery.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
imported post

ok thanks that's what I needed to know. There are some other wiring issues I need to tend to so I'll just add this to the list. I am using a Fluke DMM. It is very good and the cool thing is if you hit power on resistance it actually shows you the reading. So put it on ohms and read accross the battery, it switched to VDC and tells you 12. Pretty cool for trouble shooting.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
imported post

Also double check all your ground connections where they bolt to the frame. I had a charging problem on my 82 Honda Sabre that turned out to be a bad main ground. So I added a extra ground up by the head light and a second one back by the tail light. I've never seen anthing lower that 14.3-14.5 now on it... :grinner:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
imported post

Just one thing about grease. There are greases out there that are conductive. At work I use a grease called NoOx on all of the power connections. I'm working with 48 VDC and we are required to coat all wires before they are crimped in the lug and all lugs before they are tightened to a bus.

Grease is a wonderful think IF you use the right kind and you use it sparingly. Grease will attract dirt and dirt running off of a connections will cause a drain. A nice light coat will keep connections clean and happy.

Any comments about the neutral indicator switch on the clutch?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
860 Posts
imported post

Are you sure thewiresdon't go tothe override switch so you can start while in gear with the clutch lever pulled in? I have never heard of getting a neutral light every time you pull the clutch in. Sounds like someone wired it wrong maybe. :baffled:

Bob :11grey:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
imported post

Well that may be what itis for.Now that makes sense. I can't test that until I get the new solenoid and figure out how to get it up on the stand. I prefer not to test it sitting on the seat although with the brake held hard I doubt it will go anywhere.

It defiantly operates that light. There has been some wiring changes and the diagram I have is not that great.

I picked up some 12 gauge today and will bring home some quick disconnects, heat shrink, tie wraps etc... from work tomorrow. The harness is not that big so it shouldn't be too hard to find and fix any issues. I prefer to solder and heat shrink all my splices but the alternator wires need to be repaired and they have quick disconnects. I'm going to have to cover them in heat shrink anyway as I can't find any covered 12 gauge disconnects.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
imported post

AZWinger wrote:
Are you sure thewiresdon't go tothe override switch so you can start while in gear with the clutch lever pulled in? I have never heard of getting a neutral light every time you pull the clutch in. Sounds like someone wired it wrong maybe. :baffled:

Bob :11grey:
That sound like the diode is blown... I had the same problem before... If I'm not mistaken the diode is under the false tank.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
imported post

I was looking at the wiring diagram and yep it would be a blown diode. The problem is I can't find any diodes under the false tank. I have a regulator, a fuse block, a couple of plugs and a big black box that I assume has lighting controls in it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
imported post

I pretty sure I saw it under the false tank. It up in front of the air filter. It's a black little block. You might have to remove the false tank to see it.

Darnest thing is I know it's up there I've seen once during some work I was doing... One of those times you know it there but now your not too sure...:gunhead:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
imported post
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
imported post

Opps... Over sent the message...too many times... :shock:Sorry guys...:baffled:
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top