Info re a 1500
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You'll get sick of it before you wear it out if you look after it.As far as belts go the 1500 is the easiest of all the models to do as they are easier to access than previous models.
You'll get sick of it before you wear it out if you look after it.As far as belts go the 1500 is the easiest of all the models to do as they are easier to access than previous models.
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I have over 84k miles and it runs like new. Peoper maintenance and it will live a very long life. Think Honda cars...
I have over 84k miles and it runs like new. Peoper maintenance and it will live a very long life. Think Honda cars...
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Mine is almost brand new at 63,000 miles.
I think it will do 5 times that many miles w/o doing any internal engine work at all.
Maybe a set of plugs every 50,000 or so. Change all the filters on schedule, and the normal wearables like grease, Moly60 on the splines, brake pads, and tars too occasionally.
Mine is almost brand new at 63,000 miles.
I think it will do 5 times that many miles w/o doing any internal engine work at all.
Maybe a set of plugs every 50,000 or so. Change all the filters on schedule, and the normal wearables like grease, Moly60 on the splines, brake pads, and tars too occasionally.
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The engines go forever. Detailed timing belt instructions are on this page, http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500timingbelts.htm
The engines go forever. Detailed timing belt instructions are on this page, http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500timingbelts.htm
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202,000 km's & running like new. :action::action::action:
202,000 km's & running like new. :action::action::action:
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Forget about inspecting the timing belts. They will "look" just like the did when they were new. If you are going to go in then just replace them especially if you have no service records of when or if they were replaced.
Forget about inspecting the timing belts. They will "look" just like the did when they were new. If you are going to go in then just replace them especially if you have no service records of when or if they were replaced.
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+1 on inspection means to just change them. Short of extreme wear you cannot tell a darn thing by looking at them.
I found the belts to be easier to do then my 1100 for two reasons. The first and foremost was that I had no movement of the pulley's. That was a bit of a pain to fight spring tension on the right pulley on my 1100. Secondly was the accessibility. No horn brackets to deal with or radiator to remove.
In terms of mileage you are at the mercy of the PO. But if she runs good now that's great news. With those miles you really need to consider some heavy maintenance as her new owner.
Full drive train maintenance (moly the open splines/final drive fluid/swing arm bearing lube) .....fork oil replacement with possible spring change......hydrolic fluid replacement.....sub air filters.....coolant.....timing belts.......and so on.
The good news is most of the work you do will give you a much better ride and bring you into the inner workings of your new friend. And most of the time consuming maintenance will get you good to go for a long time.
Remember that mileage like yours proves the bike has been ridden! That's great news to...... as any wing hates to sit. I think the 1500 hates it the most.
Oh.....and the hours to do the job. That's hard to say. If you really need a worse case just plan on a day. Then when you beat that time you will be pleased. The belts should never be rushed your first time.
RED
+1 on inspection means to just change them. Short of extreme wear you cannot tell a darn thing by looking at them.
I found the belts to be easier to do then my 1100 for two reasons. The first and foremost was that I had no movement of the pulley's. That was a bit of a pain to fight spring tension on the right pulley on my 1100. Secondly was the accessibility. No horn brackets to deal with or radiator to remove.
In terms of mileage you are at the mercy of the PO. But if she runs good now that's great news. With those miles you really need to consider some heavy maintenance as her new owner.
Full drive train maintenance (moly the open splines/final drive fluid/swing arm bearing lube) .....fork oil replacement with possible spring change......hydrolic fluid replacement.....sub air filters.....coolant.....timing belts.......and so on.
The good news is most of the work you do will give you a much better ride and bring you into the inner workings of your new friend. And most of the time consuming maintenance will get you good to go for a long time.
Remember that mileage like yours proves the bike has been ridden! That's great news to...... as any wing hates to sit. I think the 1500 hates it the most.
Oh.....and the hours to do the job. That's hard to say. If you really need a worse case just plan on a day. Then when you beat that time you will be pleased. The belts should never be rushed your first time.
RED
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Just today I took the day off work and figured I'd change mine, '96 Aspy, 120K and no idea if they've been changed. While I was at it I figured I'd change the fork oil and seals since I was installing a set of Progressive springs as well. Since I had the forks off and the seals weren't expensive I went for broke and changed them too.
Heck, I might as well change the coolant too so I did that.
All told, start to finish, not rushing in the least it took me 7 hours from the time I jacked it up and put it backdown and got rid of my greasy finger prints.....Mike
Just today I took the day off work and figured I'd change mine, '96 Aspy, 120K and no idea if they've been changed. While I was at it I figured I'd change the fork oil and seals since I was installing a set of Progressive springs as well. Since I had the forks off and the seals weren't expensive I went for broke and changed them too.
Heck, I might as well change the coolant too so I did that.
All told, start to finish, not rushing in the least it took me 7 hours from the time I jacked it up and put it backdown and got rid of my greasy finger prints.....Mike
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My previous 1990 had 235,000 miles on it when I gave it to my brother. I
changed timing belts twice (at 100K and 200K),replaced alternator brushes at 140K, replaced alternator at 175K (bearings went bad). Nothing else other than normal maintenance.
My previous 1990 had 235,000 miles on it when I gave it to my brother. I
changed timing belts twice (at 100K and 200K),replaced alternator brushes at 140K, replaced alternator at 175K (bearings went bad). Nothing else other than normal maintenance.
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You don't need to replace the timing belts until 100k miles. At that point, you probably should also replace the Tensioners for the belts... I skipped it on mine at 100k, then had to do them over again at 120 when the Tensioners wore out.
You don't need to replace the timing belts until 100k miles. At that point, you probably should also replace the Tensioners for the belts... I skipped it on mine at 100k, then had to do them over again at 120 when the Tensioners wore out.
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:waving: Hello fellow '88' 1500 owner's.A few months ago I purchased a phantom grey, mint condition '88' with 55233 miles for $600 under suggested retail & with over $2K of extra's and show chrome and have added another $500 worth. Love the bike. In 2013 it qualifies as a historic vehicle and I will get a historic vehicle plate and enjoy riding a 25 year old Goldwing that looks like it just came off the showroom floor. The only problem is the inaccurate gas guage but I have discovered a fix for it which I plan on applying this afternoon. If it works I will post my "fix" for others since this seems to be standard on the 1500's. Keep the shiny side up, the Rovin' Rev.
:waving: Hello fellow '88' 1500 owner's.A few months ago I purchased a phantom grey, mint condition '88' with 55233 miles for $600 under suggested retail & with over $2K of extra's and show chrome and have added another $500 worth. Love the bike. In 2013 it qualifies as a historic vehicle and I will get a historic vehicle plate and enjoy riding a 25 year old Goldwing that looks like it just came off the showroom floor. The only problem is the inaccurate gas guage but I have discovered a fix for it which I plan on applying this afternoon. If it works I will post my "fix" for others since this seems to be standard on the 1500's. Keep the shiny side up, the Rovin' Rev.
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I've got an 89 and am the only owner of it. I am always tinkering and adding some sort of gaget to it. I just flipped to 232,000 and runs great I let it set for a yr as I had a new 1800 but with the current econimy I had to part with the payments of a new bike. I had to go thru the carbs on my 89 and I have converted it to an SE model and put a clutch in it too. Other than that She still runs with the newer bikes just fine
I've got an 89 and am the only owner of it. I am always tinkering and adding some sort of gaget to it. I just flipped to 232,000 and runs great I let it set for a yr as I had a new 1800 but with the current econimy I had to part with the payments of a new bike. I had to go thru the carbs on my 89 and I have converted it to an SE model and put a clutch in it too. Other than that She still runs with the newer bikes just fine
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Well I spent all day yesterday "fixing" thge gas guage problem on my '88' which amounted to bending the float wire on the sending unit. This was a hit and miss operation. Bend it check the guage, bend it check the guage. I think I've got it close and will drive out a tank of gas and watch the guage. The big problem is getting to the sending unit. You must remove the seat, the top peices and the left side peices. Removing, adjusting and replacing took all day. I'm going to start with a full tank of gas and knowing my mpg will check the position of the guage when I have used 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and out of gas. Will carry a spare gallon for the last. Hopefully I won't have to go back and re-adjust.
Well I spent all day yesterday "fixing" thge gas guage problem on my '88' which amounted to bending the float wire on the sending unit. This was a hit and miss operation. Bend it check the guage, bend it check the guage. I think I've got it close and will drive out a tank of gas and watch the guage. The big problem is getting to the sending unit. You must remove the seat, the top peices and the left side peices. Removing, adjusting and replacing took all day. I'm going to start with a full tank of gas and knowing my mpg will check the position of the guage when I have used 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and out of gas. Will carry a spare gallon for the last. Hopefully I won't have to go back and re-adjust.
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Can anyone tell me how to wire up a trailer plug on a 1500? The wiring is all there except the plug? What I need to feed the wires (2 blue & 2 black) into a plug with 3 females & 1 male type of connections.
I appreciate all responses.
Can anyone tell me how to wire up a trailer plug on a 1500? The wiring is all there except the plug? What I need to feed the wires (2 blue & 2 black) into a plug with 3 females & 1 male type of connections.
I appreciate all responses.
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