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csanders67217 wrote:
I just went out and pulled the plugs. They appear dry. The end, where the threads are is black looking. The two electrodes are white and look pretty normal. I smelled them andthere is a strong odor of fuel. Tried lighting them with a lighter but they did not light.

Pulled the dipstick and wiped the oil onto my finger. The oil is very clean. It feels normal and has no smell of fuel.

I pulled the air cleaner out and it too is very clean. it is a little oily feeling and smells very strongly of fuel.

The day I changed the plugs, the bike started very nicely. Now it is back to starting hard. I have to apply the choke to get it to start. As soon as it starts, I turn the choke completely off and apply just a little throttle to keep it running.
Let me know if there are any more checks you would like me to make. I would like to get this figured out.
It really sounds like there's some carburetor problems. I think you're going to end up needing to take them off and clean them up. You could try running some Seafoam through the system, it seems to help sometimes. I'd also try reducing the spark plug gap a bit just to see if there's any chance of weak ignition, not too likely but worth a shot. Try going down to .025-.028" and see if it makes any difference.

I believe it's going to turn out to be the carbs, but the business about putting in new plugs and having a great improvement for awhile sounds a bit like ignition, possibly poor cables, spark plug caps or something like that.The fact that you indicate the plugs pretty much all look the same fairly well throws out problems with coils and ignition leads and all that. To me it keeps coming back to the fuel system.

Try going over all your vacuum hoses to make sure everyone is firmly attached with no splitting on the ends or cracks in the hoses. If they are hard and stiff it might be a good idea to replace them. Check the rubber boots on the carbs to make sure there are no cracks or obvious leaks. You could play some propane with an UNLIT torch over the hoses and carb bodies with the engine idling. If there's any serious vacuum leaks the engine speed usually will change when you hit the area of the leak. You can do a similar thing with WD40. **DO IT OUTDOORS!!**
 

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csanders67217 wrote:
Thanks for te quick response exavid.

I just went out and pulled the plugs. They appear dry. The end, where the threads are is black looking. The two electrodes are white and look pretty normal. I smelled them andthere is a strong odor of fuel. Tried lighting them with a lighter but they did not light.

Pulled the dipstick and wiped the oil onto my finger. The oil is very clean. It feels normal and has no smell of fuel.

I pulled the air cleaner out and it too is very clean. it is a little oily feeling and smells very strongly of fuel.

The day I changed the plugs, the bike started very nicely. Now it is back to starting hard. I have to apply the choke to get it to start. As soon as it starts, I turn the choke completely off and apply just a little throttle to keep it running.

Let me know if there are any more checks you would like me to make. I would like to get this figured out.
It definately sounds like you are going to have to pull your carbs for a thourough cleaning. Get yourself a manual and be prepared to sit down with the carbs for a weekend.
 

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I had a related question. How does the carb-sync relate to rich running carbs or does it? Mine all check out within 1/2 in Hg of each other, but my bike still runs rich and gets less than 30 mpg. I've only had the bike a few weeks, so I'm just getting around to performance.

Also, my bike originally came from Northern North America. The previous owner moved to Florida and I bought it from him. I'm thinking that the vastlydifferent climates and humidity is causing my rich condition. I doubt the previous owner had it retuned when he moved here. Thoughts?
 

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Make sure your "Air filter" is clean?!
 

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Ok, I re-set the gap on all plugs down to .030 instead of the .035 that I originally set them at. The "coughing" through the carbs seems to have stopped. Now, it seems like I have a slight throttle hesitation. I need to get gas and I am going to put some good premium in it and run a little carb cleaner throught it and see what happens. I will give it a good ride tomorrow and report back on how it runs.
 

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csanders67217 wrote:
Ok, I re-set the gap on all plugs down to .030 instead of the .035 that I originally set them at. The "coughing" through the carbs seems to have stopped. Now, it seems like I have a slight throttle hesitation. I need to get gas and I am going to put some good premium in it and run a little carb cleaner throught it and see what happens. I will give it a good ride tomorrow and report back on how it runs.
Premium gas won't help, more likely to make it worse. Try seeing how the hesitation is with a little choke. If it's reduced it's would mean a lean carb in the idle or low range operation. It it gets worse it's a clue the carbs are running rich in the low speed range.
 

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I went out an fired it up and applied just a little bit of choke, could not tell much difference. I applied just a little more and kept trying it until I was at half choke. Only thing I noticed that happened was I started getting overwhelmed by gasfumes. I don't know. I couldn't tell much difference. I will give it a good ride tomorrow and report back then.:waving:
 

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Exavid is right on about the premium gas, just use a good quality regular grade for best performance. With the choke, only use it as much as necessary and try to shut off the choke as soon as possible. I use a throttle lock on my biketo keep the revs up until the engine warms. Excessive use of the choke means that you'll have to change your oil and spark plugsmore often.

Let us know how it drives after a good high speed run.

Vic
 

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I very rarely use the choke. Just pull it on to start and as soon as the motor starts, I turn it completely off and use the throttle to keep it running. Some times, it will start without even applying the choke.

It just seems like right after changing the plugs, everything got better but then, the next day, everything seemed to go down hill. I'll keep posting my finds.
 

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That would definitely be a factor here in good ole Doo-Dah USA.(Wichita Kansas for those of you who do not know)The humidity and weather changes here more that I change my underwear. (Not really) One day it's 70F with 10% humidity, the next it's 95F with 80% humidith and the next it's 80F with 40% humidity. Very rarely do we have two days go buy that are the same. I guess that would make a difference in the performance. I know it definitely make a difference in my performance.
 

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It really sounds like the carbs need service. The weather varitions will not cause the problems you described. After the carbs are serviced you will feel like you are riding a new bike.
 

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Well, I went on a nice little ride this morning and all went fairly well. The engine does seem to be "shuttering" a little while at speed. (65 to 70 mph)

I did notice that while I was still in the driveway, and at an idle, my voltage was 13.8 and if I reved it up just a little it would go to 14.3. I noticed that while I was crusing at 65 to 70 my voltage was 13.3 and would go as low as 12.8. Sometimes it would jump up to 13.8 but never any higher.

What is the possibility of this low voltage causing this "shuttering" problem. Seems to make sence to me. Less voltage, less spark.

It was still doing the "coughing" through the carbs but once it got fully warmend up, it seemed to stop.
 

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csanders67217 wrote:
Well, I went on a nice little ride this morning and all went fairly well. The engine does seem to be "shuttering" a little while at speed. (65 to 70 mph)

I did notice that while I was still in the driveway, and at an idle, my voltage was 13.8 and if I reved it up just a little it would go to 14.3. I noticed that while I was crusing at 65 to 70 my voltage was 13.3 and would go as low as 12.8. Sometimes it would jump up to 13.8 but never any higher.

What is the possibility of this low voltage causing this "shuttering" problem. Seems to make sence to me. Less voltage, less spark.

It was still doing the "coughing" through the carbs but once it got fully warmend up, it seemed to stop.
Hey csanders:waving:You might consider putting a DC [Dave Campbell}or EC [Electrical Connection]wireing harness onit if it hasweak fire at the plugs,the coils getting a direct connection to the battery sure helped mine. But of course if you have a carb problem it will not help that. Just a thought.:)





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mag wrote:
Dean, i'm curious, did you deal with the rusty tank, or just replace the carbs?
The guy who I bought it from sent the tank to a company in Canada and they cleaned the tank and put a coating inside it....I have only gotten one small piece of gunk in my fuel filter since I have had it...so they did a great job...



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Goldwinger1984 wrote:
Dean rather than state MPG could you state how many miles you get from one tankful. That would be a more universal measurement I think. With my 84 I can drive 355 kilometers or 220.56 miles before I need gas.

Vic
Vic, I usually keep the tank full, most of my rides are less than a tankfull, I learned a long time ago leaving a fuel tank less than full is a good way to collect moisture. If and when I ride far enough to use a full tank I will post it....When you fill the tank up to within 1 inch of the top of the neck each time it should be accurate. I am thrilled with the mileage I am now getting.

Dean





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Goldwinger1984 wrote:
Remember those old gasoline fired heaters in the VW's Paul? I wonder how much they affected gas mileage? LOL

Vic
I recall some of the Corvairs had the same type gasoline heaters,,,Some aircraft had them also, The DC 3s for example.



Dean





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