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Okay, on my '06 Airbag I installed A Sirius Starmate 5 on my left handlebar with power coming from the accessory plug at the left cargo pocket in the fairing and the antenna mounted between the trunk lid and the trunk liner. The antenna cable runs under the seat, along the left frame to the left fairing, then runs up the handlebar with the power and aux plug wires. I run the sound via the aux input. Sounds great with engine off. Sound okay with engine running, but I'm definitely getting engine whine associated with rpms (gets worse as speed up) and makes kind of a ticking noise as the engine unwinds during deceleration. Sounds the same on speaker or headset.

So, is the whine most likely coming thru the antenna cord because it's next to the frame and near the engine as it routes to the fairing, OR, is the whine more likely coming thru the power cord? Or both?

I like the antenna hidden in the trunk lid, can I shield the antenna lead, and if so, with what, or how, OR, should I move the antennato the dash area to eliminate the problem, or will it?

AND, what about the power cord, can I shield it somehow?


Leaving on a road trip Tues a.m., so want to get this clearedup soon ifI can.
 

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The engine noise could be coming in from either way, the antenna or the power. You could install an inline noise filter in the power wire. OR it would kinda be a pain in the hind parts, but you could pull your antenna out and move it and the lead away from the frame and see if there is any change. If not it is probably entering from the power cord.
 

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The antennacable should alreadybe shielded and uneffected by the frame. I think the easiest way to get rid of the whine would be to run the power corddirect to the battery. A relay could be installed to turn it off with the key. Also make sure your radio is grounded to the frame. Good luck with your radio. Radioman
 

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Are you sure that you have the FM transmitter turned off on the starmate? That way you are sending audio signal directly to bike radio thru the aux in, and not wirelessly. Try both ways and see if it makes any difference.
 

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Radioman wrote:
The antennacable should alreadybe shielded and uneffected by the frame.
The antenna cord probably has shielding, but it is minimal, the diameter is about the same as a 16 gauge wire.
 

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busdriver wrote:
Are you sure that you have the FM transmitter turned off on the starmate? That way you are sending audio signal directly to bike radio thru the aux in, and not wirelessly. Try both ways and see if it makes any difference.
Transmitter is off, using aux input, but I will try the transmitter method just to see if it helps.
 

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RadioMan98 wrote:
The engine noise could be coming in from either way, the antenna or the power. You could install an inline noise filter in the power wire. OR it would kinda be a pain in the hind parts, but you could pull your antenna out and move it and the lead away from the frame and see if there is any change. If not it is probably entering from the power cord.
I'll look into the inline filter for the power and probably relocate the antenna too to see if it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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My CB squealed until I installed ferrite core resistors - caused by the Airbag electronics - perhaps they are causing this problem too.
 

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In my research on the web tonight I found a radio store that has several motorcycle mounting kits. As recommended above, they recommend hard-wiring the power, or if using the cigarette lighter aux power adapter, installing the in line noise filter:

http://www.tss-radio.com/blog/2009/09/30/engine-noise-through-your-auxiliary-input/

They also sell an antenna with an 8" cable and their mounts have the antenna mounted directly on the side of the radio mount, right on the handlebar.

So, maybe this will help others that run into this problem.

Additionally, the instructions say to not bundle the antenna and power cords, but they have to be relatively close to each other on the handle bar, so another good reason to use the antenna mount on top of the radio mount.

Will let you know how it works out once I either install the filter or a hardwired power kit.



I appreciate the responses so far, I think you sent me in theright direction.
 

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Well, today I installed an inline noise filter on the power supply (as I couldn't locate anyone locally that had the hardwire kit and it maybe helped with the noise a little. I also relocated the antenna to the handle bar mount - just to insure it wasn't picking up the noise, that also might have helped a little.

Now trying to find a local source for the hardwire kit, I think that is the ticket, lots of sources on the web, but trying to install it by Monday for a Road Trip on Tuesday.

For anyone else with similar problems, another thread, 'Noise, noise, noise in my headset has some good info on this problem too:

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/77062.html

Will update how the hard wire kit effects the problem as soon as I get one and install it.
 

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I installed a ground-loop isolator in the audio cable from my XM Roady to the aux input on my 1500. It instantly cured the whine.I got the isolator at Radio Shack.
 

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2up wrote:
I installed a ground-loop isolator in the audio cable from my XM Roady to the aux input on my 1500. It instantly cured the whine.I got the isolator at Radio Shack.
Okay, sounds promising, I'm off to Radio Shack. If I just ask for a ground loop isolator, do you think they can come up with one? My Radio Shack guys know about cell phones, but not parts. When I asked them for an inline noise filter the other day, I just got blank stares (I even had a drawing to scale and a part number). Can you give me a little more in description/specs?
 

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I haven't located a hard wire kit yet, but using a socket type 12V adapter (which was previously wired into the wires to the 12V accessory plug in the left fairing pocket) today I wired it direct to the battery via a relay as depicted in the above drawing from CaptainMidnight85. It actually made the whine about 4x as bad?!? :X:gunhead:

I did find a ground loop isolator at Radio Shack (after going to two of them) and will install it tomorrow - ran out of time before my work shift started today.

Was leaving on Tuesday on a trip, now I have to leave tomorrow as it is supposed to rain & stormbig time on Tuesday - so either the isolator fixes it or I listen to the whine for about 3,000+ miles. :X or :action:
 

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Hmmm... That shouldn't have happened. I realize it did, but it shouldn't have.

You could try this:
Test: with engine running

1) a. Remove relay from the circuit andtake power directly to battery. Test. If whine is still present, move ground to a chassis ground and test again. Ifwhine is still present but less, locate a different chassis ground and test again. If whine is still present, reinstall relay and add isolator at battery, grounding all points together at battery.

1) b. Remove relay from the circuit and take power directly to battery. Test. If whine is not present, reinstall relay with relay ground to chassis ground (separate from electrical ground at battery) and test. If whine becomes pronounced again, add isolatorto accessory input for relay power, grounding all points together at battery.

1) c. If a and b don't provide remedy, let's track down Murphy and have a talk with him.

Install electrical ground loop isolator (as compared to audio ground loop isolator). A Kenwood KLF-2 is probably the best on the market, but are 3X+ the cost of the top RS piece. External ground loop isolators (electrical) are generally used only as a last resort.

Edit: Certain it is alternator whine?.....
 

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TitaniumWing wrote:
Okay, sounds promising, I'm off to Radio Shack. If I just ask for a ground loop isolator, do you think they can come up with one? My Radio Shack guys know about cell phones, but not parts. When I asked them for an inline noise filter the other day, I just got blank stares (I even had a drawing to scale and a part number). Can you give me a little more in description/specs?
Ground Loop Isolator
Model: 270-054| Catalog #: 270-054
$16.99


This is not the model I installed three years ago, but should do the same thing. I changed the input and output connectors to match my installation and it cured the altenator whine problem.
 

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2up wrote:
TitaniumWing wrote:
Okay, sounds promising, I'm off to Radio Shack. If I just ask for a ground loop isolator, do you think they can come up with one? My Radio Shack guys know about cell phones, but not parts. When I asked them for an inline noise filter the other day, I just got blank stares (I even had a drawing to scale and a part number). Can you give me a little more in description/specs?
Ground Loop Isolator
Model: 270-054| Catalog #: 270-054
$16.99
That's the one I bought and I am in the process now of cutting off the RCA's and wiring it into my aux cable. Hope this will work. It doesn't have any instructions and it appears it does not matter which way it is installed. Has male pigtails on both ends, one cord longer than the other, but no arrows or hints as to wiether the signal has to travel only one way thru the isolator. I either have a 100% chance of getting it right, or a 50/50 chance.
 

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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
Hmmm... That shouldn't have happened. I realize it did, but it shouldn't have.

You could try this:
Test: with engine running

1) a. Remove relay from the circuit andtake power directly to battery. Test. If whine is still present, move ground to a chassis ground and test again. Ifwhine is still present but less, locate a different chassis ground and test again. If whine is still present, reinstall relay and add isolator at battery, grounding all points together at battery.

1) b. Remove relay from the circuit and take power directly to battery. Test. If whine is not present, reinstall relay with relay ground to chassis ground (separate from electrical ground at battery) and test. If whine becomes pronounced again, add isolatorto accessory input for relay power, grounding all points together at battery.

1) c. If a and b don't provide remedy, let's track down Murphy and have a talk with him.

Install electrical ground loop isolator (as compared to audio ground loop isolator). A Kenwood KLF-2 is probably the best on the market, but are 3X+ the cost of the top RS piece. External ground loop isolators (electrical) are generally used only as a last resort.

Edit: Certain it is alternator whine?.....
I think I pissed off Murphy.:gunhead: I assume it is alternator whine, it does not exist with engine off. It doesn't exist on FM or Ipod (wired thru CD changer with EC's harness) it only occurs at engine on and increases with RPM, if I chop the throttle, I can hear a ticking type of interference too as the motor decels. If I have the Sirius selected and hit mute - whine goes away. Do the same on other sources - no noticeable whine at vol, no difference at mute.

I'm installing the ground loop isolator on the aux cable now, if that doesn't clear it up, I will follow your list above of troubleshooting steps. First I will try grounding to the frame, closer to the fairing - I currently have the ground direct to battery. I have a noise filter on the + side wiring, but it is in the fairing (above the leg vent) it was all they had locally and is about 2" x 2" x 3/4" and won't fit closer to the battery (like under the seat).

Thanks for the advice and the troubleshooting ideas.

If that doesn't work, I'll just put my bike on a trailer and have someone drag me around - stereo sounds great with the motor off. I guess I will have to rig up a 12V charger on the trailer - it will probably cause a hum. :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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Just went out and did a test run with the ground loop isolator installed on the aux cable before I solder it all up. Murphy lost! It works! NO WHINE, NO TICKING sound,just clean stereo.Now, I'm not whining either.

2up thank you very much for the tip!

CaptainMidnight85 thank you for the tips and troubleshooting tips.

I really appreciate the help from all I get on this site.Thanks again guys.

Anybody installing a powered device that runs audio thru you aux input, if you get a whine that increases with rpm, the below listed part from Radio Shack fixed this problem on my 1800 (& on 2up's 1500):

Ground Loop Isolator
Model: 270-054| Catalog #: 270-054
$16.99
 

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Good deal... :)...the ticking may be the fuel injection...

Edit: Buttoned-up?
 
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