Installing aftermarket radio

imported post

The power will go to a switched 12v, and of course the ground will go to ground but the remote wire is for a power antenna or as a turn on for an amp.
If it is a digital it probably has this wire setup:

Red- 12v switched
Yellow- 12v constant (for memory)
Black- Ground
Blue- Remote


Speakers


Front
Gray - Front Right Positive
Gray Black - Front Right Negative
Green - Front Left Positive
Green Black - Front Left Negative

Rear
Gray Red - Right Rear Positive
Black Gray - Right Rear Negative
Green red - Left Rear Positive
Black Green - Left Rear Negative



Hope that this helps.

imported post

Hey guys,

GM… thanks for the compliment. Here is the link to the thread that shows the completed stereo install.



http://goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=49466&forum_id=1



This is what I did. Read through the article and look for my Avatar. It may give you some ideas.

Just for future reference, here are the color pin-outs for Car Stereo wires. These should apply for just about any stereo. They are typically an industry standard. It does not matter if it is an older or newer stereo, these colors hold true.

***************************

Speakers



Front Left:

- is white/black

+ is white



Front Right:

- is grey/black

+ is grey



Rear Left:

- is green/back

+ is green



Rear Right:

- is purple/black

+ is purple

****************************
Power Supply



Red – This wire goes to the ignition (power when your key is on).

Yellow – Goes to battery. Always on (keeps your stereo presets etc alive).

Black – Goes to Chassis ground (direct wire to the battery preferred).


*****************************
Control Wires



Blue – Power antenna control.

Blue/White – Aux power control that signals external devices to power up.

Orange/White – Dimmer control wire from your dash lights to control device backlights.


*****************************



The one real comment I would say here is that if it is a higher wattage system (which almost all head units are today (greater than 15 watts RMS)), then you should run a heavy gauge wire directly from the battery to the stereo. Run a heavy gauge wire for BOTH the Positive and Negative. DON”T rely on the bikes “ground” to do its job. A few feet of good wire is only going to cost a couple of bucks. Make sure you fuse this wire at the batteries Positive end.

This type of setup will supply good, relatively clean power to the stereo with out having to go through the bikes “Spaghetti” wiring which was not even good enough for what it was designed for.

Use a relay from one of the existing wires in the fairing to switch the new stereos “red” wire to your newly run power line. I forget what the existing wire color was. I will see if I can find it for you. It will have power going through it in all ignition key setting except “off”.

I know that this may sound overkill but it really is not. You will probably have problems (a lot of people do) if you just wire it to the current fuse block under the tank or use the “Spaghetti” wiring in the fairing. The old wiring is just not meant to provide the clean power and the amount of current that the new stereos require.

Tim.

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Hey Bozack0,

The size of the fuseall depends on the size of the lines you run down to the battery and the current draw from the stereo. You may even want to install a new AUX Fuse Panel in the fairing so that you can add other options (lights, GPS etc) and not have to wire things over and over. It is really not that expensive.

When I did my stereo I just wired for the stereo. I did not really think ahead at that time. I ran a 20 amp fuse which was suitable for the gauge of wire I used.

That was last spring. This spring I wanted to add driving lights and I decided to make an AUX Fuse Panel so I could add things as I need to. I am soooo glad I did. Here is the link to that thread…



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/75901.html



I kept my stereo on it’s own circuit even after I added the AUX panel… it was already there and so why start cutting?



Tim.